My center link appears to be adjustable. When you say fixed length center link I assume a non adjustable link. Although the adjustable center link in the photo was included with the 3.8S crossmember.

I appreciate your input. The MK2 parts book is of no use. I was sent a 3.8S parts pdf by e-mail. Apparently it has disappeared from my email queue. I will have to locate the correct part number and search for that part. Thanks.

Bob

 

Jaguar has posted their parts book in pdf for this car. It is at jaguarclassicparts.com. You can use those numbers to search online. SNG Barrats and xks unlimited also have visual parts listings which are easy to use. Good luck

 

http://www.jagstyperegister.com/imag...vicemanual.pdf
http://www.jagstyperegister.com/imag...pepartscat.pdf

See manual. There are multiple centre links & tie rods that have been used over the years.

They are:

1) Fixed length.
2) Threaded fixed length threaded to allow individual joint replacement but threads cut so they don't allow length adjustment. i.e they screw off one joint thread and onto the other once joints are fixed/mounted to steering.
3) Variable length with replaceable joints as you have.

With Varamatic you can use an adjustable centre link set neutral. Then dial in toe with the side tie rods ~ see manual.

 

Well folks, I have assembled it all and tightened everything I see loose. Had a bit of a stumble starting it which is ok, since I wanted oil to start circulating anyway... Poking around I found a loose wire near an unloved connector on the distributor , joined them up and Bobs yer uncle, starts with the push of the button! Not even half a crank! Push that button it's running! WOW! I am stoked! Wheels are on and ...,we're off!

 

Good news! Congratulations.

 

Today (4 days later) I took my shop manual to the Local shop which I was hoping would "do" my exhaust system for me. I have had work done by them before and have been completely satisfied, not to mention I have been taking my work truck there for maintenance as needed. I talked to the lady at the counter and got a :/ kind of a look and a "you lost me at 'complete.'" I said I took it off because I have been doing other work on the car and the exhaust system was junk anyway. She said "talk to the guy." She must have given him the Screwy sign because he was already very reserved before I said anything. I showed him the pic in the shop manual and said that I just wanted to give you a reference point, I don't need it to be truly stock correct etc etc etc., he blew it off saying "I Have to SEE the car before Ill make any estimate." In my naivete I suggested that I didnt need full stock, as built, but rather something that would make the car legal. Not Good Enough. Buy your Kit he said, it will be correct (and not in my hair). I am Not going to drag the car all around town looking for someone who is even interested. So be it. YOU dont get my money. I will never understand how businesses can afford to take such indifferent attitudes. The PR will live much longer than the work.

 

Today, a week after starting it, I grew weary of thinking what else I should do under the car before taking it off the jackstands. The car was calling loudly and i felt that I must respond. It was great fun with all the noise and smoke (but NO FIRE!)! The brakes work impeccably and the ride is amazing. The car is far from complete (especially the absent exhaust) but now I feel that I can take it on short cruises around the vicinity. It is licensed and insured of course and I dont live far from my work. Since I am able to keep an eye on the parking lot I may take it to work too.

 

I had planned for that to be the closer for this thread but short of starting another which is not necessary, I am compelled to add this. Last year, I had a head gasket failure on my 94 (I ordered parts), This spring I ordered what I thought were Monroe shocks for the front on my 66, but I got Boge brand which was what I wanted but had been told were discontinued by someone at another reputable parts seller. These parts were ordered from David Manners Ltd. On both of those occasions I put my order in on a Sunday evening, and had the parts Tuesday afternoon. I am in Indiana in the good old USA.. I was stunned both times at shipment in under 48 hours from the UK since I did not ask for any special service. Yesterday (tuesday) I was forced to call them due to some technical glitches, and ordered 2 carb kits for my 66 (still did not ask for special service). The package was on my porch today (wednesday) when I got home from work! Not 32 hours later! Across the pond! I am beside myself with amazement. I am not sure how they do this but 3 times cant be a fluke. Thanks guys!

 

Hi All, I am back again. Having put over 100 miles on the car this season, I have it lifted back up and am trying to plug the more aggressive leaks. I have one on the back end of the trans which seems to be an adjuster screw which points at where the governor is located inside. I took that unit off last year to replace the output flange seal and at that time noticed that this screw was only finger tight and was actively dripping even after the car had been sitting for upwards of a year.
As of this week I have been tinkering with it, trying different nuts, and installing a fresh copper washer under the nut but to no avail. I suspect that part of the problem is that there is no head or fixture for gripping the screw. It appears to be a bolt with its head cut off. I have gotten an "Allen" head set screw for it and will try that with the washer and a nut. My question then is this- What does this screw do? Is it actually and adjuster for the governor? If so- or even if not- (it is obviously a stop of some sort) how do I set it properly? What should I be looking for in my tests? I had noticed a hesitance to got into second at first before the car warmed up, so I suppose that could be it... As always suggestions are requested and appreciated.....

 

After 2 frustrating evenings researching and getting nearly Zippo in it, I looked in my Mark 2 parts book and found a whole section on that unit on my transmission. Apparently it's a lockdown adjuster which would explain the late shift to 2 on cold ( maybe) but since it's a parts book there's no further explanation.... dg 250 trans.......

 

I can't seem to edit on the mobile app.... I meant Kickdown not lockdown

 

DG250 ?

check in my website as I have a service manual and TSBs for 1960-1967 transmissions. Free downloads or online viewing, PDF files.

Home: Classic Jaguar S type Used Parts

 

Thanks Jose. You seem to have all the info. I have installed my New setscrew ( I was thinking maybe worn threads on the old one or the housing) but apparently to no avail as it is freshly wet after one hour. Next I will try draining the trans and wrapping the screw in Teflon tape. It should seal but in looking through your TSBs I did not see anything for kickdown. I was able to thread the screw in by hand up to a stop. I then turned it in approximately another 1-1/2 turns and tightened my nut. I have not run the car so I don't know the accuracy of my Assumption. I'll keep us posted, thanks again....

 

Jerry ~ Try some Loctite 577 anaerobic thread sealing compound. Should do the trick.

 

Thanks. I was unable- for whatever reason to find the locktite 577. Instead I got a tube of Permatex "Seal Lock" thread compound. Seems like a close alternative. I have applied it to that screw and also to the plug with which I have replaced the anti creep switch. It says let set 72 hours, so I guess I'll be back at that after Christmas.....

 

Just as an aside- Wife and I joined a local car club. Not Brit focused, mind you. At the meeting last night I was talking with the club leaders and happened to say "Are there any Studebaker experts here?" Because the DG trans was used there too. They didn't think so offhand but one of the officers seems to have taken my kickdown screw to his own and is researching for me. What A Guy!