If I'm correct I have the Burman power steering box. It worked fine but leaked. How tough is it to re seal? Is there anyone in the states that can do it?

 

Yes that is the Burman not sure if type 1 or type 2. That depends on the age of the car and a subtle difference in the piping I thing some one said.
I have the Marles Adwest which was on the later cars and was very easy to work on with only three or four moving parts and Nylon bearings. But I have been told and it has been discussed on this forum many times that the Burman is a Bitch to work on and has a hundred moving parts most of which are loose ball bearings which go everywhere when stripped. You also have two sizes of ball bearing which lie alternatively on the same ring just to complicate it further. I am in the UK but there will be someone on here who has a source to rebuild it for you in the states.
For comparison this is the Type 2 Burman box.

 

That is a Type 2 & should have HALE cast/stamped on one side of it with torsion bar & quill valve. It is correct for your car. Barratts sell rebuild/seal kits. Someone local I'm sure can guide you to a re-builder.

 

Those recirculating ball boxes are not that bad to do, it's a learning curve as one goes along.

Can't be too clean when working on one, if you take a white rag or paper towel and wipe over what you may think is a clean part and it shows dirt, then it's not clean.
Even after a clean solvent bath, I ended up using Simple Green and then Dawn in very warm water, to get things clean enough.

I had 2 tuna cans when I did mine, one marked small and large for the *****.
I measured the ***** until I found a large ball and locked the micrometer to that size, after that it was easy.
The small ***** just fell through and they went into the "small" can, and so on.

I worked on a stainless steel tray with edges, a very large cookie sheet for doing crème brulee works well enough.

Take photos as you go along; step by step.

Use a very sticky grease when assembling the ***** to the spiral.

It's absolutely necessary to replace the O-rings on 10 and 4 in Glyn's diagram.

 

Absolutely! the torsion bar O ring will cause a leak beyond the main input shaft seal if not replaced. Wrap the splines with plenty of cling wrap & then grease or the splines will cut into the new main seal if you don't have the Churchill sleeve when fitting that seal.

O ring (28) main seal (34) ~ scale of parts book drawing is wrong. Jeff is talking about (42) as well ~ critical.

 

Refresh page for edits.

 

I can't find a picture that will tolerate blowing up to the required degree but suffice to say that if you don't replace O ring (28) that the input shaft will leak under the UJ clamp. i.e. well beyond the main input shaft seal.

 

I have that problem too. I tried replacing just the "easy" o-rings to see how well it would work but obviously only got partial success. Carboard on the floor where ever it goes. Vintage Jag in Blackfoot Idaho claims they can do that, but its very expensive. I got myself a spare box which i plan to have a try at "sometime"

 

Found ~ Second Type box ~ will leak here if you don't replace O ring (28) on the torsion bar.

 

It was the 420G and the 420 that got the Marles steering box. Of course the two models are totally different from one another, the 420G being an upgraded Mark 10, and the 420 a development of the S-Type.
As far as I remember, the Rover P6 3.5 litre I ran in the mid-80s had a Marles power steering box on it.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...ox-fit-273232/

It was fitted to late MkX first.

 

Sorry wrong thread.