MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

Starter Carb Oozes when key is on

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Old Feb 2, 2026 | 11:48 AM
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Default Starter Carb Oozes when key is on

Morning all, so as well as the wiring issues (another thread)... in attempting to trace wires etc, i finally got the battery hooked back up, when you turn the ignition on the fuel pump send gas to the carbs, and the aux carb oozes gas out (its not wired up yet).

Last time, when trouble shooting the pump, the gas was shooting out of the aux carb but I took it apart and cleaned it - now it just oozes, the fuel pump shuts off, then kicks in again, off again, on again... any tips?

P
 
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Old Feb 2, 2026 | 11:52 PM
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My S Type did this a couple of years ago and I just stripped out the auxilliary starting bowl thingy , cleaned and checked everything thoroughly and then re-assembled it as the manual said. There's been no more trouble at all.since then. If it were mine I'd just clean and set it again.

Ray.
 

Last edited by timsdad; Feb 2, 2026 at 11:54 PM.
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Old Feb 3, 2026 | 05:03 AM
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The level of the fuel in the AUX carb should be the same as the front carb bowl so if the AUX is oozing I would suggest that fuel is still seeping into the front bowl over filling it and the only exit for the excess fuel is via the AUX carb. Check that the shut off valve in the front float bowl is seated correctly.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Cass3958
The level of the fuel in the AUX carb should be the same as the front carb bowl so if the AUX is oozing I would suggest that fuel is still seeping into the front bowl over filling it and the only exit for the excess fuel is via the AUX carb. Check that the shut off valve in the front float bowl is seated correctly.
thank you both for the tips, I’ll try this as the car won’t start, will crank, I stop, try again and backfires then cranks constantly so assume it’s flooding?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 11:13 AM
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If its backfiring and not starting sounds like your ignition timing is way off. Check the firing order on the distributer. Remember number one cylinder is at the back of the engine and six is at the front. I did a static check for timing with a test light before starting my engine for the first time. Put the crank on its timing mark, and slowly turn the the distributer until the light turns on. Attach the light clip to the power lead from the coil and ground the pointed end of the light. The light will turn on when the distributer is in the correct position. The repair manual describes how to do this in the section about the replacing the cylinder back in the block.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Felixbobcat
If its backfiring and not starting sounds like your ignition timing is way off. Check the firing order on the distributer. Remember number one cylinder is at the back of the engine and six is at the front. I did a static check for timing with a test light before starting my engine for the first time. Put the crank on its timing mark, and slowly turn the the distributer until the light turns on. Attach the light clip to the power lead from the coil and ground the pointed end of the light. The light will turn on when the distributer is in the correct position. The repair manual describes how to do this in the section about the replacing the cylinder back in the block.
Thank you. Always wondered how that’s done.
when I got the car there was just a block, I’ve had to source everything and I’ve never done anything like this. I restored a spitfire but less cylinders and was complete, and running, I had to replace everything made of rubber nose to tail.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2026 | 11:21 AM
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This is my first British car. Definitely a learning curve as well. I find some things about them brilliant and others things to be non-sensical. This community has been a huge help.
 
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