Hi, I've checked all of the posts relating to the steering column for a 240. I have a 1968 RHD Automatic BW35 240. I believe regarding steering it will be most similar to S-Type but thats a guess.
I have wobble on the steering wheel. The manual steering is in fact very positive (but heavy!) but without turning the steering wheel it is possible to rock it around as the inner column is loose within the outer column. Horns work OK and only go off when turning the steering wheel if the steering column is dropped all the way down, as previously reported but other users.
I am planning to replace the bushes. I haven't stripped it down as yet as still using the car until the winter months are with us. The upper/lower felts SNG C20149/C10264 are described for early models and suitable for 240/340. However opinion on these is that they don't last long. The forums refer to a better option as SNG C237621, I presume these fit within the columns at both top and bottom so 2 would be required. However those that have used them refer to squeeks and squeels. Finally SNG have an aftermarket C23592/93 plastic steering column upper and lower bush set, but these are described as suitable for MK II, 2,3.4.3.8,340, but they don't mention the 240. Equally they don't say not suitable for the 240. I have approached SNG to clarify. I can't really imagine why the 240 would have a specific outer or inner column so different from the other models?

I would value any previous members experience of changing the bushes and on balance which would be the best option?

I am hoping to achieve the replacement of the steering columns without removing the lower column and without removing the carbs (again), but from previous posts that might be a challenge.

Thanks for your advice Frank

 

no experience with the 240, only with the S type.
But I can't think of any reason Jaguar would use a different column in the 240 ? Maybe member Mac could verify this ?

I replaced the two bushings with the Nylon ones. Yes a little squeak but they eliminated the play. One on the top end, one at the bulkhead end tube. A LOT better.
(forget the "horse hair" ones).

 

Thank you for that advice i will scrub the felt options. have just seen a post from 2017 which has popped up as threads related to my question and one I had not seen in my searches. I will totally go for the more modern plastic bushes (C23592/93) and assume they must fit in a 240. I had misunderstood the nylon bearing (C237621) is an additional part that is not in the parts drawing. I had interpreted that the felts should be changed to the nylon steering column thrust bearing but if I have now understood correctly its plastic bushes top and bottom and thrust bearing at the bottom end also.

 

I imagine a smear of grease might stop the tendency to squeak. So long as the material is definitely nylon (rather than looks like), it shouldn't have a problem with just about any type of grease, certainly standard lithium would be OK.

 

Why replace the Thrust Bearing ?
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Mine came out carefully and was reinstalled.

 

Peter, those bushes are not plastic, they are some kind of hard Nylon, maybe that is why they squeak, but eventually the squeak dissapears.

 

A couple of weeks ago I removed and stripped the steering column in my '66 S Type to fix a horn issue and to replace the plastic bushes, Frank. The job was mainly because I needed to deal with chronic oil leaks from the steering box, that just needed new gaskets and seals,

Everything came apart fine and I had no need to remove the carbs - just the air filter and its inlet casting bolted to the carbs. I used Barratt's plastic bush set, part numbers C23592/93, which, I'd think, fit most of the models of this era. Others may know better.

The bushes just hooked out with a small screwdriver and pushed in with my fingers and thumbs, as they're fairly flexible, It should be noted that they're slightly different inner diameters so need to go in the correct end of the column. When reassembling the column I lightly greased the inner shaft and all seems fine - no dramas at all apart from still struggling to get the horn to work reliably on the steering wheel button/D ring.

Ray

 

are you certain the horn push contact is making contact with the bullet ?

 

Thanks, Jose, yes, as the horns now seem to work fine with just the centre button. Maybe until they stick on again if used in earnest.

After much messing around in several sessions, I can't seem to find a solution to getting it to work reliably on the D ring. I've tried gradually increasing tension on the springs with the little plastic nuts, also using thin washer spacers to increase spring tension, but there doesn't seem to be a happy medium between not working at all and sticking on after three or four parps with the chrome D ring.

I've also messed around with spacers on the four 1" fixing screws of the plastic top housing. I have to keep walking away from it because of pains in the neck and knees from the contortions. Very frustrating because it's not rocket science!

Ray, in Damp and Dull South Norfolk

 

Thanks so much for all of these posts. It has clarified the issues for me. Why SNG should list the bushes suitable for all models but doesn't include the 240 just seems to be an admin error I have now heard back form SNG and C23592/93 is apparently suitable for 240, we will see. Along with the post by Oxendine April 2022 the steering wheel bushes and thrust washer conundrum is well detailed. Thank for all of the replies and it seems like I can get the steering column back into the lower column without removing the carbs. Very grateful to you all. Frank

 

Getting the column back into the U/J needs two people. One to push the column down through the bulkhead hole whilst the other is under the car directing the shaft into the U/J. You can do it from above but I found it easier from the bottom. The head of the U/J flops around so is really hard to line up by yourself. If I remember rightly (on the S Type anyway) there is a section of the splines on the column which has a key ( two teeth together without a gap) which will only fit in to the U/J when the two sections align correctly. This allows the steering column to line up with the steering box arm so the steering is straight ahead.

 

Thank you. I have previously had the lower steering column off to drop the engine and suspension and don’t recall any splines to specifically line up, however I had marked both ends of the lower column to line them up as they were, so maybe they slotted back together without any difficulty. The down side of this is that the steering wheel spokes have been nearer 8 and 2 rather than 9-3. The two bolt heads on the indicator strike plate of the inner column are also incorrect as they aren’t in the vertical position as described in the manual. So there is good reason to reset the whole steering column as it is clearly all off centre. If there are matching splines on the UJ then I imagine the lower column needs to come off and be repositioned on steering box.
Usual restoration project one thing leads to much more than anticipated.
I will look out for any specific splines to line up as it may well help. Thank you.

 

as long as the car is parked with the front tires straight and forward everything should line up.

I replaced those column bushings by myself, without any help except some help from the shop manual.

I did mark the splined area where it was before spreading the u joint after removing the pinch bolt.

 

Thank you Jose, that’s very positive. So far I have managed everything on my own. Engine and suspension removal and replacement. So optimistically believe I will find a way. If not then the son in law, who can’t open a window without breaking it, can at least hold a steering wheel!

I think I might make a start earlier than planned as I’m keen to see how it all works.

Great advice from the forum as always and totally appreciated. Frank

 

Jose, if the inner steering column is set correctly with the steering wheel spokes set at 9 to 3, the indicator striker pin sets screws in the vertical and the wheels directly straight. Should the pinch bolt of the lower column UJ be in a constant position for all vehicles? Mine is at a very awkward angle for removing and I’m guessing, by Jaguar designed engineers, the bolt is likely to be directly horizontal, 90 degrees to the axis of the inner steering column splines on the top of the UJ. Would that match with yours and other members or is it just fanciful thinking?
If anyone could post a picture of the correct alignment it would help. Much appreciated.

 

When I did mine two or three weeks ago, Frank, from memory, I had to tweak the steering wheel one way to get spanners on the pinch bolt and remove it. I then squared the wheels and steering back to the straight-ahead before sliding the U/J off its splines. After stripping and reassembling the column and leaky steering box it all went back together the same way and with no hassle.

The most difficult task was getting the four bolts back into the floor that secure the metal shield plate round the bottom of the column. I did this by getting it in place over its new home-made greased gasket with a couple of longer UNC bolts with their heads chopped off. At first I'd got one bolt in, with a long 3/8" drive extension and socket, and then discovered that the holes are offset in the plate and had to start again.

Your job should be a lot easier if you've removed the parcel shelf. I did mine with it still more-or-less in place because I couldn't get the little chrome fasteners off the front crash padding. I thought they must be nuts, with flats on them, but could find nothing to fit or grip them and no reference to them in factory or Haynes manual, or anywhere else. Some enlightenment would still be handy for the future.

I did all this solo, because there was no one else around when needed, but I have a four=post ramp which is a huge help.

Ray

 

Thanks Ray, the rotation of the steering wheel prior to separating the splines is going to be my exact situation. Sometimes I marvel at the design and logic of the engineering and sometimes “what were you thinking”. Memorable was replacing the water pump to realise that in order to remove the housing you have to remove the crank bolt and pulley with cone just for one bolt.
Equally some jobs seem ridiculous but with a 4 post ramp it all makes sense. Appreciate your help and details. Frank

 

No problem, Frank, I'm often groping in the dark myself with my old S Type.. However, I got used to it in my former life as a truck repairer. The Jag IRS bearings seemed easy compared to burrowing under a TK Bedford cab to get the head or water pump off.

Ray

 

Not necessarily because if the steering WHEEL is placed at 9-3 but the front tires do not correspond to 9-3, you will have a misaligned steering WHEEL when driving the car.

the way I did it was to connect everything, then drove the car in a straight line on a level road, and then stopped the car, pulled the steering wheel off and centered it.

 

Thanks guys.

Good point well made and like the first fit approach before fixing the steering wheel.
Only one thing to do now get on with it and see how it goes. Frank