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With the help of this forum I've discovered that my factory pin and bushings in my steering linkage were both shot especially the one off the steering box. I've ordered two of the uprated ones and also adjustable track rods. Question is does the center link need to come off to replace the pins? I'm not sure how I'd get them pulled down into place while everything is bolted to the car and I'm lying on my back trying to re fit. I'm guessing to remove is to use a large hammer? The ends of the track rods can take a tapered joint remover which I have.
What steering box do you have? If the Second Type then the outer rods are fixed length & you adjust toe on the centre rod. If you have Varamatic the you set the drop arm per the marking on the steering box output shaft. The centre rod is fixed length and you adjust toe on the outer rods. The exact opposite of the Second Type.
Remember the Varamatic is variable ratio & requires the drop arm to be centered to the steering box for straight ahead.
Regarding the pins they are slightly tapered so you either use a puller or a BFHammer. But we had everything off the car which makes matters a lot easier. We were assembling & not taking apart with the exception of these pins when we saw their condition & removed them to replace with the uprated units. Every ball joint was new. My car had the side tie rods with reverse thread on one end so you could replace a single ball joint They screwed off one ball joint & onto the other so their length did not change. All toe adjustment was on the centre tie rod.
Uprated PTFE Pin
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Oct 4, 2022 at 09:47 PM.
I have the varimatic box from what I can tell. Attached are a couple of pictures underneath. I'm having problems hammering the pins out. As I noted before I don't know how one would be able to drive the pins and bushings back in with everything mounted to the car. I'm thinking of dropping the steering box with all attached to help in disassembly and then putting it all back together, It looks like unhooking the the steering shaft. hoses, and then unbolting the box and the pivot on the other side to drop it all out of the car?
Yes You could well have the Varamatic box, You are right at the changeover time. I would recommend dropping as much as necessary to make life easy. Don't mess around with the drop arm on the Varamatic box. If you do you are going to have to go through the set up manual procedure.
Do you have a WS Manual. If not you need to get one. The later version that includes Mk2, 240 & 340.
The 420 Manual includes the Varamatic. Ignore for everything else other than the Varamatic steering. See 420 manual in first link. 2nd link is playing up my side. Ahem ~ now it is working.
I'd probably use a press, then it's controlled. I've found many things that will come right out in a press that wouldn't budge by hammering.
I used an oversized press for the job & they just "drifted out". I think mine had been replaced at some time during 90K miles but the upgraded PTFE ones are vastly superior to the metalastic variety.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Oct 6, 2022 at 06:40 AM.
I have removed what is shown in the attached photo and was able to press out the second pin and bushing. My question is can the pin that goes through the steering box arm be fitted while the box is in place? What kinds of problems would I encounter if I were to remove the arm from the box and then refit? I'm asking this to save some trouble removing the box from the frame.
As always thanks.
I recently changed the links on my Adwest steering. I did not remove the steering box from the car. You appear to have removed the linkage from the curved arm that is attached to the steering box ( number 33 in the attached diagram). There is no requirement to remove this curved arm from the steering box as the linkage will bolt back on to it easily. Removing this from the steering box will cause you more problems as you will have to centre the steering and get the curved arm to sit on the right splines.
The only problem I had was when trying to tighten the lock nut on the tie rod the linkage kept rotating so I had to cut a slot in the threaded section which allowed me to hold it still with a screw driver whilst I tightened the lock nut up. Lock nut on the Tie rod. Slot cut into the threaded section. Holding the threaded section still with screw driver whilst tightening the locknut.
I haven't removed anything from the steering box. I'm not sure if I can refit the pin and bushing into the linkage that attaches to the arm on the box. The pin goes in from the top without much room to tap it in place. I've frozen both pins with the hope they will go in a little easier.
I have removed what is shown in the attached photo and was able to press out the second pin and bushing. My question is can the pin that goes through the steering box arm be fitted while the box is in place? What kinds of problems would I encounter if I were to remove the arm from the box and then refit? I'm asking this to save some trouble removing the box from the frame.
As always thanks.
That is not a Varamatic arm set. They adjust toe on the outer 2 tie rods with centre tie rod fixed length. That is a Type 2 (Second type) arm set where you adjust toe on the centre rod only & the outers are fixed length. (If I can see properly)
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Oct 12, 2022 at 11:56 AM.
These are the linkages on my Variomatic steering setup on a 1968 S type. This is what I did when I replaced my links. I just dropped it down having disconnected it from the tie rods. I had the benefit of a lift to work under the car. I removed the links and replaced them without having to dismantle all the steering arms from the car.
Your picture cuts out on the left as seen. Your left hand side (RHS IN PIC) is adjustable for Varamatic & correct. Can't see the other entire tie rod. They should both be adjustable & the same or you can't maintain centre on the steering box. (unless you fudge it). Maybe Jaguar went the cheap route & you dial all toe on one side which is being naughty regarding the Varamatic principle.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Oct 12, 2022 at 12:05 PM.
Or it's a replacement tie rod. When I restored my car I couldn't get the original style fixed tie rods anymore, so mine are a centre threaded rod with two ends, just like in the photo.
Cass:
I used a standard nut (making sure it threaded on easily) to wedge the taper in, and then installed the lock nut.
No need to cut a slot.
I'll put this here too as I'm not sure if it was mentioned if one is using the rubber type taper pins.
The car has to be sitting statically with the wheels facing forward before tightening all the taper pins, this goes for the upper and lower control arms as well if their mounts have been replaced.
Or it's a replacement tie rod. When I restored my car I couldn't get the original style fixed tie rods anymore, so mine are a centre threaded rod with two ends, just like in the photo.
Not entirely sure that these are the original parts as there has been one previous owner to the car but this is how it came to me.
Looking at the parts manuals for the S type which could have had the Burman or Adwest and the 420 which only had the Adwest there is no difference between them. All the numbers are the same.Top diagram is of the 420 and the bottom one the S Type.
420 Steering arm setup. S Type steering arm setup.
Not to beat a dead horse but that's what I currently have on my car. The question that I need answered is how does one fit the pin and bushing through the linkage and into the steering box arm while the box is still mounted?
Steering Hardware Install
