so i pulled the pump apart, cleaned off the contact points, (nothing to lose as it was not ticking, just froze up). and pulling off the coil the diaphragm came with it. i gently pushed the piston in and let the spring push it out a few times, hooked it up and got the coil to operate. So, here's my question . . . the rubber of the diaphragm and the rubber on the square cap end of pump body are protected (I assume it's for protection) by a thin clear membrane. it seems that this has protected the rubber from deteriorating. anyone know what this stuff is and do you think i can reassemble the parts without them failing?
ps- the upper points are easy to pull off and clean. i didn't feel like disassembling the spring housing, so . . . i got a 3/8" plastic dowel and superglued a hole punched piece of 220 wet/dry to the end and buffed up the mounted points in situ with no problems.
thanks again TJ. So that's for a negative earth system (XPK-300). I'm converting to negative earth. Is it better to just get this kit instead of the XPK-305 and switch system over later. Also the guts are pretty sorry. How are the valves removed, are they pressed in or are mine just stuck with varnish? And is this valve on the right through which the screen is showing nackered? (no dumb questions). Know of a good rebuild tutorial?
If you are rebuilding the pump, you may as well bite the bullet now and do the changeover, or stick positive earth.
Don't forget the clock if you switch, if it works now and you don;t deal with that you will blow it and it won't work after, let me know if you need help with that I can let you know how to convert the clock to negative earth as original.
Rather than try and explain in a post, the attached is as good a tutorial as I can give you.
Trying to attach PDF SU Dismantling and Assembly instructions but it won't upload !
You can download it here as I have just uploaded it to my site Downloads
Now that's just good practical advice, but where's the fun in fitting a new part Glyn. Non original obviously, but heard good things about these pumps.
A good alternative if you don't want the hassle of rebuilding the original pump.
They are excellent. Make the right noise & you can't see them. Compatible with a broad range of fuels & alcohols including Brazil's hydrous alcohols. For the price you can't beat them.
anybody used this pump.. 3 psi @10 gph? think that's enough fuel flow? too much pressure? I still need to find out about auto cut off. same cost as a rebuild kit w/o the hassle.
Some time ago, I replaced my "original" fuel pump with a modern one. It ran well for a year or so.... then died! I repaired the old pump and we have lived happily ever after.
Well, if you're anything like me, luck doesn't strike very often in the auto rebuild/resto arena. So imagine my surprise when I cut open my newly arrived box of repop fuel pumps to find these! Holy crap!