I have way too much on my plate after moving to a new home. I am thinking of selling the jag. I’ve done all the wood, all the leather (with a reputable brit supplier’s kit), headliner and door cards, refreshed tanks and have new pumps, carbs appear to be rebuilt (no gum. shiny brass and casting), But . . . engine is free but not running. BW trans is there but intermediate speed hold solenoid is toast. Most of the chrome is good but front bumper needs redoing. Practically, it could be called a partial basket case. Etc., etc. Payed 5K. After checking Youtube vid, what IYHO is it worth?

 

looks like a good example. I would keep it and get it running. You will regret selling it, it never fails.

Do you have any advice on redoing the headliner? I need to do my '65.

Thanks.

 

jose - think hard it's a real job. no easy way out. glued to the metal. rear screen has to come out, etc etc

 

Work DOWN from these values. Unfinished non running project cars battle to fetch decent pricing & everything is condition. Search Ebay for some historic values. You will be lucky to get much more than you paid for it plus if lucky the cost of the upholstery kit. This varies by country. I'm commenting for the US.

 

Ideally the front screen also needs to come out as the headliner has to go into the rebate under the screen rubbers, otherwise you will have a mess like this.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/m...-241797/page2/

 

Yes, I may have to take a bit of a bath. In my defense, the car came to me with a full interior kit, floor to roof, a full rubber kit for doors and the body was gone over with a fridge magnet and never let go on any surface. Thanks for the value chart Glyn. Perhaps I'll float it to some enthusiasts, bide my time and get it running at least. CL just stirs up the bottom feeders.

 

Good luck. Looking at the rear door panel it looks to be a good & correct interior kit from John Skinner or similar. Correct friction/heat embossings etc. Many forget the top one so you cant create the small horizontal roll under the wood cappings.etc.

 

wow, I sure don't want to mess with the glass or bright trim. Too many risks.

I am going to try to pull the old fabric and glue new fabric, which will still require a complete dismantling of the interior. There must be a simpler way, like in the XJ.

 

Jose ~ the windscreens come out of these cars very easily once the expander strip is removed. At your car's age a new windscreen rubber would be a great idea. Then you can do the job properly. If you buy the headliner kit from John Skinner you will find Jon (Jonathan, John was his dad) most helpful. One phone call and he will patiently tell you how to do the job. His tips are invaluable as they do them frequently. I just phoned Jon ~ handed the call over to my upholstery man who is tops. After that discussion my guy got it perfect. He also insisted that he install the front & rear screens so that no one could damage or dirty his great work.

It is also critical that you get the former & padding down the rear C pillars correct.

 

Glyn I am familiar with Jonathan since I have spoken with him regarding using vinyl instead of leather for replacement XJ seat covers which are worn out in my '84 XJ-6.

He is very helpful. I explained my existing vinyl seat parts are pristine and I don't want them replaced. All I want is the leather sections replaced. He said they could do it in vinyl if i prefer that.

Skinner is an excellent business to work with.

What are the expander strips in the S type?

 

Jose: Here is a link to a video on the replacement of the windshield/windscreen rubber on an XJ-6; I am pretty sure the S-type is similar:


Perhaps Glyn can comment on this...

 

Expander strip. You fit a windscreen rubber & screen first. Then there is a grove in the windscreen rubber under the chrome. You fit an expander strip into this grove and it expands the windscreen rubber tight against the body & the glass.

 

See diagram.

 

If you are taking a screen out due to having the later S Type with the fibreboard roof lining I would advise that the front screen is the easiest to remove and refit. The screen has to come out to be able to remove the fibre board from the car as it does not go through any of the doors apertures.
The reason for the front screen over the rear is two fold. One as Glyn has pointed out the headlining needs to be tucked under the rubber screen rubber to finish it off but more importantly the front screen chrome is easy to fit as it tucks under the rubber which holds it in place. Whereas the rear screen chrome needs to be glued in place and getting it to sit correctly whilst the glue dries it a nightmare. I ran my car for three years before I managed to get the rear chrome on. No one would touch it as a job even though I was willing to pay. A friend of mine had his rear screen replaced by a professional auto glasier. After two days working on the car the glasier walked away having got the glass in but not the chrome on and did not submit an invoice for payment.

 

Spot on Rob. The rear screen chrome is a sod. Goes into a groove in the rubber glass side but caps over the rubber seal body side. Glued mine with Loctite 480

Needs to be perfectly shaped & then held down firmly with lots of tape while the adhesive cures.

A friend of mine calls it an "evil" job ~ LOL!

 

yes thanks, I am familiar with his videos. He is also restoring an S type. .
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When mine was done, the seasoned body man used blind chord to "lip" the wind shield in, after that we both "settled" the shield in with the palms of our hands with firm blows.
One could see it tucking itself into the seal.
We also did the chrome while the sealant was still pliable.

 

Sometimes pushing the glass in to place with firm blows with the palm of your hand is not advisable. When fitting my rear S type screen I was struggling to get the screen to sit in the new rubber. It kept trying to pop out so the palm of the hand was used only for the screen to smash. It turned out when I order the new screen surround in a seal kit they supplied me with a standard rear screen rubber seal set whilst I had asked for a heated rear screen rubber seal set. The heated rear glass is thicker than the standard glass so the rubber profile has a wider gap for the glass to sit in. I was trying to force the thicker screen glass into the thinner profile rubber which is why it kept popping out.

I was lucky I had a spare heated rear screen to hand and the suppliers sent the correct screen rubber for the second attempt that did not need the gentle persuasion of the palm of my hand.

 

Putting the screens in is not a problem with the correct rubber. Heated rear screen is quite a bit thicker as Rob says. Correct rubber crucial for fit & wire routing.

Only care required with the windscreen is seating the bottom corners properly first or the rubbers can pull away from the bodywork. Correct windscreen rubber should always seem a little large for the job. Windscreen chrome is also easy. Should also be glued as can blow off at speed. As Rob has previously mentioned elsewhere some windscreen chromes have holes in them to allow wiring together under the chrome joint covers.

The "evil" job is the rear screen chrome.

Typical (FRONT) windcreen lower corner pull away

 

Firm blows may not be the correct term, it should not be used to force a situation that doesn't want to happen.
Certainly if the rubber is the wrong type using ones palm to settle things in may and can cause the screen to break.
When mine was done, one could see the wind shield nicely tuck itself in when the "palm" method was used.

The photo with the broken glass looks like it was pinched in that area where the break started.