Thanks Doug!

I will cross my fingers and see if I can modify the rear seat to enable it to fit the narrower 3.8s

 

Progress continues - always 2 steps forward and 1 back it seems, but progress. The modified front suspension carrier is back from the frabricator - mods include a step in the cross member to clear the V8 sump, installation of brackets for the power steering rack, and modified turrets to accept coil-overs with 6" of travel. The splined Mark 2 hubs are being machined to fit ABS wheels just inboard of the inner bearing seals - once these are back the beast will be a roller and we'll load it up with everything to get corner weights for determining the appropriate springs.

The rear end is finally complete except for coil-overs which await the weigh step. The Mark 2 hubs required some machining to fit the XJR axle spindles, but everything seems to fit nicely. I want to fit some 18" x 8" or 8 1/2" wires with the original XJR tire profile (255 40) to keep the computer happy - if anyone has any tips on measuring wheel offset and checking clearances I would appreciate any advice as I've never done this.

In a concession to safety (this is going to be my daily driver) I'm going to install the XJR rear view mirrors. This is the only exterior cosmetic complaint I have with the Beacham cars, but I don't know any other way to get functional mirrors to look any better. The window frame fouls the passenger side mirror, so I'm considering moving the frames forward to meet the mirror base and eliminate the vent window glass altogether. This will require custom safety glass but I think it's available.

Finally I'm running the wiring harnesses and ECUs to see where everything will go. The next time you have an electrical challenge in your Jag take a peek at the last picture and you might feel a little better - there's always someone worse off than you. For some reason this idiot does it by choice.

 

Doug,

On my Jaguar 3.8s I installed 245 wide tires that were 40 series on 17” rims that were 8.5" wide using a 5.75 offset going inside. The bolt pattern of the Jaguar actually is a standard Chevy 5 lug with4.75”. These are the widest I have seen on a 3.8s and clear with no issues. I do think you could squeeze a 255 as your car is a MKII so you do not have the body cover about 1/3 of the rim/tire as my car does. You can buy the mearing tool at the Tire Rack and other places. I would use a 8.5" rim. I believe I rolled the fenders as well like I have done on my other cars to ensure maximum tire clearances. You can see the 245 looks great yet you can stick your hand in between the tire and the inner fender well so there is plenty of clearance. On my car we could have possibly gone about 1/2" inwards a bit more.

 

Wow Doug you are doing an amazing job. I cant wait to see the finished product. In regard to your tyre size comment I think you will find that it wont matter what diameter you run as the ratio is all the gearbox looks at. I have had 22 inch rims on my XJR for the past 9 years with no trouble, but put a different ratio diff in and it will go into limp mode faster than a rat up a drain pipe.

I am just finishing a yellow gold Daimler series 2 lowered with carbon wrap on the roof and bonnet and a couple of turbos to move things along a bit.

I will post photos when I am finished but the build is no where near as dynamic as yours. PS thought the sun roof was a sensational bit of kit!

So keep up the good work. I am loving the updates.

Cheers for now.

 

Hi you guys. What a fantastic job!!You cant help being sucked in!!.If I may ask a question, how do you know what Beecham use?, is there some where showing the info.
Keep it coming, especially the details.
many thanks fellars
barry

 

Hi barry,
I have some info on what they do,how they go about it, and sent it to doug,

 

Thanks for the feedback on fitting tires, Primaz. Can I get you to post a picture of the 3.8 S - side profile on the ground? In looking at your rear wheel on the lift I'm thinking I might stop at 17" - 18" might be a bit drastic for the old beast, plus wires get kinda spindly looking if too big. And thanks Koss2j for letting me know it's even an option to stray from the XJR specs. Barry, Beacham posts a lot of pictures of their work in progress on their website. That plus some old engineering specs on tub mods that the Daimler guy was good enough to share have really helped with the build. Then there's the trial and error - lots of trial and error ...

I was at a loss where to fit some of the XJR engine bay components in the narrow Mark 2 nose. Finally decided to place the ABS pump and main fuse boxes into a watertight box in front of the driver side front wheel. This will be behind a splash guard so hopefully everything stays dry.

After working on a design for a bracket to raise the AC compressor to clear the frame rail I decided not to mess with the existing serpentine belt setup and left everything where it is. This required a significant notch in the rail which I reinforced with 1/4" plate on all sides including the top, so it should be plenty strong.

With the original fuel fill gone the XJR CD changer and amp fit nicely into that space in the boot. This is where it resides in the XJR, and with the complexity of these harnesses it helps to place as much as possible in the same position. With the boot and engine bay loaded up I'll fit the interior, doors and glass to get the thing weighed. I'm not looking forward to fitting the power windows and door locks, so if anyone's got any experience I'd love to hear about it.

 

I went to fit some big AP racing calipers and rotors on the front end and ran into a fitment issue - the caliper bracket doesn't fit between the upright and the steering arm. The brackets and bells to adapt the rotors to the splined hubs are made by an outfit in the UK - BG Developments - will have to see what they have to say. In the meantime I bolted the calipers up to the forward side of the uprights just for weighing purposes.

Due to the outboard location of the brake master cylinder on one side and the ECU box on the other I had clearance issues with the hood springs - the XJR gas struts seem to do the trick. Similar problem in the boot with the fuel tank and fill - the struts look like they'll do the trick.

I welded some mounting brackets into the dash for the passenger side air bag. I'll veneer an aluminum plate in lieu of the wooden glovebox door - this attaches via straps to the airbag framework so as not to become a lethal projectile should the thing deploy. I think I'll post a disclaimer in front of the passenger seat nevertheless - ride at your own risk.

Still trying to decide where to locate the HVAC blowers. It appears Beacham locates components under the dash above the knees and covers everything with big panels. I don't care for the look and it seems to restrict footwell space quite a bit. I'm toying with using the fender space just forward of the door openings - in this position the blowers project in from the side a few inches about parallel with the inner sill bump. I think this might be less intrusive and open up the footwell space. I plan to duct fresh air from under the front bumper, over the top of the wheel wells and into the inner fender space. It's either that or a set of louvers in the fenders just forward of the doors, as the scuttle area is filled with HVAC dampers and defroster ducts. Let me know if there are any ideas or opinions out there. Here are a few pics.

 

Doug,

You are a great fabricator. I will send you pics of my car on the ground later this week. I think the 17" rims I used were a good size.

As far as the AC I am installing the Retro-air kit designed for the 3.8S or the MKII. It has the evaporator box mounted where the factory battery went and requires the battery to mounted elsewhere (typically the trunk). For me on my 3.8S, I liked you did a more radical change by eliminating the factory dual gas tanks under the rear fenders and mounted a larger tank where the spare tire was, then I mounted three batteries where the gas tanks used to be since I am going with a very elaborate home office and mobile setup. You might think of fabricating a battery mount as I did to mount the battery under the rear fenders and use the retro-air kit. It then routes the air cleanly and looks like a factory set up.

 

Primaz,
Got any photos of your battery mounts? Thanks,

I too am using the Retro Air system. Working on it today as a matter of fact.
Lin

 

It works well and can be taken apart to remove batteries. I have tow 6 volt AGM batteries in series for the mobile office and accessories and on the other side there is a standard battery for starting the car.

 

Doug go to my updated 3.8 sleeper posting to see the car on the ground to view how the wheels look.

 

First of all, I hopeyou will wright it all down hear what you are doing, it is a greatjob!

The last 25 years Imodified Mercedes classics, the last are 280 SE 3.5 coupe with5-speed. antidive system on rear end, MSIII, full aircon, 300 mmbrakes...500 E W124 hand shifted....280 Se 3.5 Panamericana to 280 SE5.0 handshifted and antidive rear-axle...

As I am looking along time on this MKII mods from Beacham-Vicarage-carpoint-fiboy Iwant to go this way too. I want to make a perfect new-old-one for mywife. Automatic, ABS, aircon, armrest, if possible ESP and evrythingvor everyday use.

I have identifiedhere in italy the perfekt donor MKII, sound shell withoutengine-tranny but the rest is still there. So what type of donor carI have to choose?

I look on xj v8, xj40, x300 and S-type. As I see you use the xj v8 basisi, but could I aS-type? I seem differing in the rear-axle , it is multilink typesimilar to the one in Mercedes W124, not very hard to make underevery type of car. Or is it better to go xj?

Older Beacham andcarpoint cars had xj40 bases, carpoint has normal suspensions(perhaps using multilink uk parts?) and Beacham what they us on theolder 6-cylinder ? Could a xjr kompressor a good choise?

At the end, as I sawsome interesting chassis-swap with Imprezza-Mercedes Ponton, MercedesW124-Fintailer, BMW M5-3.0 CSI modifications, could this be an optionwith an x-type 3.0 4x4 (interaxle similar, width similar???

Best Pagodino

 

Pagodino, it's nice to know crazy isn't limited to the UK and US. Unfortunately I have no experience with the models you mention as possible candidates for donor cars for the Mark 2. One of the things I'm learning with my project is that just about anything is possible - with enough time and money. On this forum we have DaimlerMK2 transplanting an S Type, so he would be a good one to approach on issues such as fitting that rear end. Primaz is finishing up an LS1 (GM V8) transplant with an endless list of other mods - check out his postings.

I went with the X308 for a couple of reasons. My wife uses one as her daily driver, and in my opinion they're one of the best cars Jaguar ever produced. The small blown V8 is smooth and powerful, the Mercedes transmission is slick with adjustible shift points, and the rear suspension with traction control plants the power as well as anything I've ever driven. The fact that Beacham successfully uses all of these components in their conversion was a big factor also, since I knew it was possible plus they've posted lots of pictures over the years illustrating the process. It sounds like you've done a lot of one-off work so you know how much time it takes to design and fabricate these things.

Jag sold large numbers of 308's in the US so they're widely available and very inexpensive, though low mileage donors are getting hard to find. From viewing the 308 forum here it looks like the motor is very expensive to rebuild. The 308 seats and center console don't come close to the charm of the Mark 2 originals, but that's the tradeoff for getting modern features like heated/power adjustable seats that actually fit your butt and automatic climate control.

Good luck with your project and let us know how you decide to go.

 

hi it look great i am all so starting on a1969 mk2 with a1998 xjr 4.0 ltr v8. how did you shortened half shafts and lower arms and by how many inch

thanks .
luckie

 

Luckie, the lower control arms need to be shortened 4" on each side. I (intuitively) shortened the half shafts the same amount, but this produced some squat that required a 3/8" shim at the diff coupling. Doing it over I'd shorten the half shafts 3 5/8" to eliminate the need for shims.

Be careful with the lower control arms. On the XJR these are cast steel which requires proper pre and post-weld heat treating to retain their strength. If you go this way I would recommend a vertical gusset down the inside center to act as a retainer should the joint ever fail - these units take tremendous torsional loads.

I ended up purchasing a set of cast aluminum control arms from Beacham for a lot of money. The last thing they want is to deal with idiots like us (I can't blame them), so good luck if you go that way. If I had it to do over again I would fabricate a pair from scratch using DOM tubing much like the older IRS units. The geometry on the XJR units is a bit more complex (lay one on a flat surface and you'll see what I mean), but it's certainly doable for any competent machinist.

Hope this helps, and good luck with your project.

 

thanks doug i will need your help a lot over the next year ,i am only starting this project now. hope you don't me asking too many questions.
many thanks luckie

 

hi doug it's luckie I got got a price from beachms for lower whishbone 3500 nzd and shotened half shaft f0r 1500 nzd .that's sound very expensive did they give similer price?

 

Lucky, I paid 2500 NZ (about $2000 U.S.D.) for the pair, which I thought was stupid expensive. Their development work is certainly worth something, but those numbers are abusive imo. As far as the half shaft mods, this is simply a matter of turning them down on a lathe between the coupling ends to fit inside some heavy wall DOM tubing, cutting out the center, pressing them into the tubing and welding them up. It's about a 4 or 5 hour job at any good machine shop - I think I paid about $300 for the pair. Here's a pic of what they look like cut down. Recommend you find a good local machine shop and see if they can fabricate the LCAs as well. Keep us posted.

 

replicating a Beecham resto-mod is definitely a lot more work than my project. In my opinion I would not worry about the price for any custom part someone already engineered as doing it from scratch will give you much more pain that paying a premium will seem well worth it. It is impressive to see what you folks have had to do in order to make this type of transplant work but for me I have no issues using a GM power plant and seeing the work you guys are needing to do helps make my gripes about minor custom parts seem trivial. Stay strong as the last bits at the end seem to take forever....

Doug, are you sure your name is not Chip Foose?