Doug,


I think you're car is better than the Callum, great job!


You might consider moving your fuse box/electrical from the passenger lower kick panel and move it under the glove or somewhere else. The reason is that if you have speaker box enclosures as I had made that go in place of the lower kick panel the sound is incredible as it is directed perfectly to your ears. I used Porsche speaker rug which is made for the sound to go thru and you can get in many colors to match your interior. My system uses two way Focal separates and JL Audio long throw 7" subs. All of the speakers are hidden and the sound is incredible.


If you cannot put the speaker box in the lower kick panel area and are forced to cut the door and panel; spend the money and get Focal speakers to get great sound. You can still use the Porsche carpet technique in the doors to cover the speakers or get the panel modified with MDF wood to flush the two way speakers and use traditional speaker cloth which does come in some colors or the Porsche carpet.

 

Thanks Primaz. My problem in the toe kick area is the blowers which are committed to that space with no real options for locating those due to their size and ducting. I'm probably stuck with the doors but will put it off as long as possible as I hate the idea of cutting into them, and with all the moisture it's not the ideal place for speakers.

We managed to get the front and rear glass installed today (always a fun process when you do it once a decade). I needed an antenna for the remote lock transponder, and on the advice of one of the folks on the XJR site I duplicated the original on the rear glass by using a windshield defroster repair kit. I need to research how to synchronize a new transponder (the donor car didn't come with one) with the computer to test, but I don't see any reason this shouldn't work.

I purchased some aftermarket wiper arms from SNG that are adjustable for length - they have a little cam that locks the arm at whatever length you choose. This feature is nice as it allows you to use longer blades - 13" is pictured here, and I'll go with at least 14" and possibly 15". The quandary then is whether to use the modern blade technology which unfortunately is all black plastic, or stick with metal frames that can be chromed. The arms are stainless so the ends are easily modified by welding and polishing to accept the modern connectors. Another neat feature with the arms is a toothed cam arrangement that tightens the arm to the wheelbox shaft with a phillips head bolt.

I should mention an unpleasant development with the bonnet insulation pads I showed a while back. The vinyl has begun to separate from the foam backing, and this is without being subjected to heat. Fortunately the mastic for gluing these to the bonnet is still in the cupboard - it would have been a nightmare removing otherwise. I asked the supplier if a high temperature adhesive was used (appears to be a conventional upholstery contact cement) but never got an answer, so I'll return and make my own.
Until next time.

 

all looks very nice, and I like them arms,

 

[QUOTE=Doug Dooren;1583470]Thanks Primaz. My problem in the toe kick area is the blowers which are committed to that space with no real options for locating those due to their size and ducting. I'm probably stuck with the doors but will put it off as long as possible as I hate the idea of cutting into them, and with all the moisture it's not the ideal place for speakers.



Doug,


I used to do high end car audio in my college day and there is really no worry about moisture. They sell foam inserts to match the speaker size 5", 6", etc. to protect the driver. The only real disadvantage of a door is you just need to spend a little more time to seal most doors. Use metal plates or the extruded metal criss/cross flat metal that looks like a diamond pattern to create support over holes so you can unscrew them if needed for service. Then use Dynamatt to cover over them. You just need to make each door as air tight from the inside of the car. There really is no issue using speakers in doors and when you use Porsche rug or various speaker clothes you can hide the speakers.

 

Primaz,

I don't wish to hijack Doug's fantastic thread, I am at the stage with my MK2 resto where I am stripping paint to bare metal and finalising welding, I need to think ahead to try not to have to do things twice, could you please PM me with details / advice on speakers. I am going pretty standard, so should have no problem with using kick panels, but would love to know more detail.

Amazing job Doug, I am keenly following this thread.

Jon

 

Thanks for the tips on mounting speakers in the doors, Primaz. I think I'll get the car on the road and then decide how crazy to get with the stereo.

We buttoned up the front lights last weekend. Installed cheap sealed beam headlamps to get the beast through state inspection, after which we'll go with something that actually lights the road. If anyone has opinions on the best technology I'd love the feedback - HID, LED - not sure what's available in the 7" single lamp style or what's the best. I'd also like to install LED daytime running light bulbs in the driving lights - does anyone know if these are available to fit a halogen (H4 I think) socket?

Also open for thoughts on what to do about the rear view mirror mount - looks pretty bad from the outside. I blacked out the mirror and rain sensor mount areas except for where the mount glues to the glass - assuming any paint on the inside would defeat the metal to glass bond. I believe modern windshields apply the blackout area between the glass layers which isn't an option here.

I used a 1/4" closed cell polyurethane foam and found a nice perforated vinyl for the bonnet and boot lid insulation panels. This is a simple project as there's no need to sew the edges since they tuck into the framework - just be sure to use an appropriate adhesive to withstand the heat. Until next time - and Happy New Year.

 

Doug, you could use something like this for the mirror, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perforated...r=520893034039
I have something similar on a van I have that is stock from the manufacturers and it is definitely on the inside as you can feel the texture.

Or you could use a very dark tint film, the high performance type can have the mirror glued on top of the film.

You could shape it leaving the rain sensor hole and mount the mirror with a black glue pad, or they do clear pads which would stick to the windscreen through the perforations.

Great job, the insulation looks great, where did you find that vinyl, it look perfect.

Jon

 

Doug,


I think the 7" LED Vision X https://www.headlightrevolution.com/...-low-high-halo
is the best headlight around. It is made of very high quality glass not cheap plastic, has a lifetime warranty and provides incredible light that makes it easy to drive through windy roads at night. I highly recommend them and to buy their relay option as that allows all 5 elements to be on during high beam mode.


What I did for the rear mirror was use the Escort aftermarket rearview camera/GPS mirror that glues to the windshield. It is a bit heavy so you have to be careful when adjusting it. It works great and gives me the modern convenience of rear view camera that is displayed on one half of the mirror and the option to switch that to GPS as well. It looks like it came with the car.

 

Primaz,
I took a look at those lights, they look great, the B#####r is they are not suitable for the Europe market, it looks like the European market has polycarb lenses.

 

They make E-MARK and ADR models so that they are street legal for the global market.

 

I saw that, but they say they are polycarb lenses not glass, I can't find any with glass lenses Alan, I maybe going mad !

 

Yep Doug,
Enquiring minds want to know. What is the source for the vinyl and is it a high temp variant? Which high temp adhesive did you use?

Thanks for sharing. You are getting close!

Lin

 

? Could be me as I assumed they were glass but maybe they are not? They are great quality and the best light I have seen in a 7" round; plus they are LED so they reduce the draw on the lame Lucas wiring

 

I'm on that list too

 

Thanks for the good tips on the mirror mount, Jon. I like the idea of using the perforated vinyl as a mask (not sure about gluing over/through it) - think I'll combine this with a black glue pad (didn't know they existed). Now, how the heck do I get that button off the glass?!

Primaz, those headlamps look sweet - I'll put them on my parts list for when the wife's not looking. I already have a gps in the dash and the XJR mirror has an integrated sensor for automatic headlight control so we'll stick with that one.

Lin and John, here's the contact cement I used. I have a can of 3M high temp adhesive I originally purchased for the insulation panels, but after using this stuff for the headliner and carpet installs I decided to stick with it. Adhesives can be difficult to spray because of their viscosity but this is a breeze to apply. Just shoot both surfaces, let it set up for 10 minutes and join. Adhesion is instant and permanent so there is no room for error, but the bond is amazing and strengthens with repeated heat cycles if the literature is to be believed. There are dozens of vinyl suppliers on ebay - just search perforated marine vinyl and choose a heavy weight material (20+ oz). The marine fabric is waterproof and intended for direct sun exposure so I used that assuming it would help with the heat exposure. I'm more concerned about the effect of all the hydrocarbon gases on the vinyl over time, especially if you're running an old motor with that big breather. I guess time will tell.

 

Thanks Doug,

what did you use for a spray gun ? and how did you clean it after ?

I've just ordered some Vinyl, bit premature but hey ho

 

Thank you, Doug!
You are always great about sharing your discoveries!
Lin

 

Doug, you could use this by 3M it is 4" Sq, you could cut to shape and it would give you a large bond area which would easily stick through the perforations, it is very thin so would not get any mirror vibration either.

It looks like you have quite a large flat area on that mirror, so you could cover most of that with the black pad and have plenty of grip.

BLACK - 0.15mm Thick - 3M Double Sided Acrylic Tape Pad Square - Model: 9448 A | eBay

This one has free international shipping http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-0-15mm...wAAOSwAuZX0~mK

 

We got the rear view mirror installed with a more acceptable result. Jon, I went with a vinyl mesh which does a nice job of masking the area. For the mounting plate I found a black glass-etching primer that's used to repair the frit that's manufactured into modern windshields for the urethane bonding. It did a nice job of hiding the metal mount - just hope the bond holds over time.

I can remember on my earlier Jag restorations (another Mark 2 and a S1 E-
Type) taking buckets of hardware to be cadmium plated. On this project there were only a few miscellaneous bits to be plated since most of the suspension and brake components are not original to the car. On a whim I purchased a cheap zinc plating kit and used it on the bonnet latch this weekend. Simple process and the appearance is good - we'll have to see how it weathers.

Heads up Clyde - when I framed the nose for the new radiator mount I failed to leave clearance for the bonnet latch release arm which extends forward toward the grill. Rather than cutting and welding around all that fresh paint I simply rotated the mechanism 180 degrees which points the lever rearward. Looks like crap hanging out there but there's plenty of clearance and one benefit - it puts the release knob on the driver's side.

Heads up again Clyde - I never noticed this until mounting the bonnet (hopefully) for the last time - the rear of the bonnet drops/dips into the engine compartment a few inches when fully raised. Be sure to leave sufficient clearance here when fitting components near the firewall. I have about 1/8" to spare to the vapor recovery system purge valve - hey, we do get lucky sometimes.

The beast is back up on the jack stands - hopefully for the last time before venturing onto the road. We'll go through all the suspension and drive line components front to rear checking for tightness and clearances, and set what will hopefully be the final ride height. Still waiting on the bumpers and window frames from the plater - hopefully they'll be ready soon as I'm anxious to get the beast inspected and registered. Till next time.

 

Stunning Doug, fantastic job you have done, I can't wait to see it with the bumpers on.

Glad the mesh worked out, great idea re the etch primer, it should stand the test of time.

Let me know how the cad plating goes, I was looking at getting a kit and would love to know the pros and cons.