MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler 1955 - 1967

XJR Mark 2

 
  #381  
Old 03-17-2019, 03:50 PM
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The narrower steering rack moved the pinion input shaft 2" inboard, so of course this meant reconfiguring everything from the bottom of the steering column to the rack. We had to go from two u-joints to three in order to clear the exhaust downpipe, which meant adding a heim joint to stabilize the shafts. In order to fit the heim joint we had to eliminate the XJR vibration damper. Fortunately we were able to find an upper u-joint that includes an integral damper. Of course this wasn't available in the metric spline configuration to fit the XJR column, so that had to be pulled, disassembled and the end machined into a standard double D configuration. Rather than pull the engine again to access all of this mess I opened up the inner fender where a lot of folks have recommended to help move air through the engine compartment. It was that or take take a match to the damn beast.

As you can see from the attached pic the heim joint is in the middle of nowhere, so we fabricated a Rube Goldbergerish structure to support it. It isn't pretty but it's strong - and removable should we ever come up with something more elegant. Tight doesn't begin to describe the setup - we have about 1/4" clearance at the u-joints and heim joint. All that's left is to bolt up the coil-overs and calipers and fill the power steering reservoir and we should have the beast back on the road. Wish us luck.
 
  #382  
Old 03-18-2019, 03:22 AM
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very creative and nice job, Doug! I think your engine compartment will smile now that you gave another path for the hot air to escape
 
  #383  
Old 03-19-2019, 08:41 AM
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Default Project Mk2 mystery car

I recently acquired a project Mk2, that had been abandoned in a 'barn' by the 3 back previous owner. I was planning to part it out until I saw the very extensive and well exectuted work someone put into this body.
From the photos, can anyone identify the running gear this was built to accomodate? My only clues are the X308 pedals and booster, and the two X308 front seats it came with.
Do the mods to the engine mount area, and rear end look like they are for a 4.0 from a 98-03 Jag?




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  #384  
Old 03-20-2019, 07:43 AM
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I think you're correct. That looks like an X308 trans tunnel, and the bulkhead mods suggest they may have wanted to accommodate that dash. The rear suspension mounts appear to be for the XJ IRS. No idea what the plan was for the front end.
 
  #385  
Old 03-20-2019, 10:05 PM
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Thanks Doug.
 
  #386  
Old 03-23-2019, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Doug Dooren View Post
Has anyone else tackled an XJR transplant similar to the Beachem Mark 2? I've been following the Primaz LS1 project and noticed a few folks mentioned they were undertaking or planning the XJR approach. I would love to exchange some project details as the hurdles are substantial and frequent. I acquired a rust-free CA car (not sure if the picture attached) and X-308 accident victim this winter, so there's no turning back now. Please let me know if there's any other interest out there.
Hello, where does the front of the rotisserie bolt to the front of the jag? Thanks
 
  #387  
Old 03-23-2019, 06:44 AM
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I first used the radiator mounts and the bumper bracket mounts. I'll have to dig for a picture.
 
  #388  
Old 03-23-2019, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Doug Dooren View Post
The narrower steering rack moved the pinion input shaft 2" inboard, so of course this meant reconfiguring everything from the bottom of the steering column to the rack. We had to go from two u-joints to three in order to clear the exhaust downpipe, which meant adding a heim joint to stabilize the shafts. In order to fit the heim joint we had to eliminate the XJR vibration damper. Fortunately we were able to find an upper u-joint that includes an integral damper. Of course this wasn't available in the metric spline configuration to fit the XJR column, so that had to be pulled, disassembled and the end machined into a standard double D configuration. Rather than pull the engine again to access all of this mess I opened up the inner fender where a lot of folks have recommended to help move air through the engine compartment. It was that or take take a match to the damn beast.

As you can see from the attached pic the heim joint is in the middle of nowhere, so we fabricated a Rube Goldbergerish structure to support it. It isn't pretty but it's strong - and removable should we ever come up with something more elegant. Tight doesn't begin to describe the setup - we have about 1/4" clearance at the u-joints and heim joint. All that's left is to bolt up the coil-overs and calipers and fill the power steering reservoir and we should have the beast back on the road. Wish us luck.
Doug, I hope you are able to finish this soon and I hope all goes well. I am sure all if left might be minor tweaks to the alignment. Get-her-done
 
  #389  
Old 04-23-2019, 02:49 PM
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Alan, I appreciate the constant encouragement - it's easy to lose enthusiasm after so much time and so many issues on this project. I'm happy to report the narrower rack has resolved the bump steer problem - we hit the same stretch of undulating road at high speed and all remained stable. The final rack position is also a few inches further back than the last setup, and this has made a big improvement in the Ackerman angle. There is no noticeable scrub as before when turning at full lock, and the turning radius is actually much tighter - I can now swing directly into the garage without making a k-turn approach as before. This is counter intuitive given the shorter rack travel, but with the inner tire now turning more sharply it's no longer pushing the nose out at full lock.

I had to redesign the steering column seal at the firewall since the new vibration damper and additional u-joint wouldn't fit in the old boot - we welded in a simple collar and cone panel to the tub which is then clamped to the outer steering column with a length of silicone hose. Once again not very elegant but it works. While working this out I discovered a clearance issue with the accelerator pedal - while the trans kickdown was activating with the pedal to the floor I wasn't getting wide open throttle at the throttle body. With that fixed the beast has gone from really quick to just stupid quick - I felt the traction control kick in a few times on my last run, so it should be interesting once we get the beast registered and play with the traction control off.

I stopped by a couple of tire shops to inquire about a wheel alignment but no one seems to want to deal with the front shims. My thought is to have the front and rear toe set as these are simple modern adjustments, and have them tell me the caster and camber specs. I'm assuming with these I can then calculate the shim changes needed to get the proper spec. If anyone knows the degree change associated with the various shims I'd appreciate any feedback. Until next time - we're almost there.


 
  #390  
Old 04-23-2019, 03:12 PM
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Nice one Doug.

I think the degree changes per shim are in the service manual, I can take a look if you like and let you know.
 
  #391  
Old 04-23-2019, 07:24 PM
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Doug, great to see you solved your issues! I would recommend to find a good local hot rod shop or other place that does alignments of older cars. There must be someone out your way that is familiar with older cars that use shims? For performance it is good to have a slightly negative camber. If I can remember right I think I have mine about 1 to 1.25 degrees negative camber, 4-5 positive front caster both even, and toe 0-1/16th out to 0 and 1/16 to 1/8 in on the rear; so these might be starting points? and the car tracks very well with only a minor amount of extra wear in the inside couple of inches but the increased handling is well worth it with no real loss of tire life as when the outside wear levels are worn down the inside is a bit bald. Many classic car shops that have an alignment rack should have no issues working with our Jaguars and the shims. I have also increased the response of the rebound so it does not float yet is not a harsh ride but handles well. I would buy some more of the shims as most likely you might need more to get it set right...Ideally you should try to find more of a performance or hot rod shop as they will be comfortable aligning cars with shims try an initial alignment around 1.25 inches negative camber and drive it and give them some feedback and they can quickly tweak it and then repeat until you find the settings that you like. When you have this increase power you should deviate from stock as the car can get out of control faster than it should in my opinion...
 
  #392  
Old 04-24-2019, 04:43 AM
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I agree with primaz if you are looking to improve handling. The virtually zero camber & castor & 1/8th toe setup stock by Jaguar had zero to to with handling, high speed stability, self centering action etc. Only later did they even consider anti dive in the front suspension design. I think all they were trying to achieve with the stock set up was lightest possible steering with a manual steering box & comfort with spring & damper rates chosen.

Dialing in some negative camber & castor is a good idea. Race set ups frequently go out to 3 deg negative camber so half that would be great for road & many modern cars run castor in the 9 to 10 deg area. (Autobahn cruisers for high speed stability)
 
  #393  
Old 04-24-2019, 07:42 AM
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Jon, I searched shims here on the forum and found a few references to a 1/16" shim corresponding to a 1/4 degree of castor/camber, so I think we're all set.
Alan and Glyn, thanks for the suggestions regarding suspension setup. Everything's currently as close to zero as I can get without the proper equipment, so I suspect when I start dialing in these changes we'll see some further improvements in handling. We're also pretty soft of the shock settings so I plan to increase the rebound damping a bit to keep her planted. Alan, just want to confirm you're suggesting slight toe out front and toe in rear? Thanks again all.
 
  #394  
Old 04-25-2019, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Doug Dooren View Post
Jon, I searched shims here on the forum and found a few references to a 1/16" shim corresponding to a 1/4 degree of castor/camber, so I think we're all set.
Alan and Glyn, thanks for the suggestions regarding suspension setup. Everything's currently as close to zero as I can get without the proper equipment, so I suspect when I start dialing in these changes we'll see some further improvements in handling. We're also pretty soft of the shock settings so I plan to increase the rebound damping a bit to keep her planted. Alan, just want to confirm you're suggesting slight toe out front and toe in rear? Thanks again all.
I thought I wrote down the settings but cannot find it; my memory is it was 0 to a little negative toe front and a slight bit positive in the rear but what is more important is getting those even on each side with at least the front about 1 degree negative camber. I bought a bunch of the spare shim sizes from SNG as nobody is going to ever stock them locally and with hard driving/miles some may break over time. I gradually brought the camber more negative and as Glyn said track cars don't care at all about tire wear so they are often 3-5 times more negative than a street car. Most of my street cars end up being somewhere between .5 to 1.5 negative camber in the front and depending on the car the same or closer to positive in the rear and you will get the same life of the tire as if it was neutral, the only difference is you will have the inner 1-2" basically bald when you are below the wear indicators of the outer edge. That is why I have the same 245 tires all the way around as I rotate the tires to maximize the wear and my last set if tires got about 35,000 miles. I also increased the rebound a couple of times and might go one more time as the ride is very comfortable but I think I can keep the car a little more planted without having my wife notice any comfort loss. I believe you are running some decently wide tires so play with your settings getting at least the front more negative camber and the car should carve thru the canyons pretty darn good for such a sedan...and with your V8 you should stun some people thinking they are faster than our old cars
 
  #395  
Old 04-25-2019, 04:07 PM
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Yes ~ For a road car neutral toe or very slight toe in is probably desirable on the front.

Track cars, F1 etc will run toe out with heavy negative camber. This is to get a car through a corner as fast as possible & provide extra stability under braking. Tyres & suspension wear are not considerations.

Running negative camber & toe out under heavy braking tries to splay the front wheels & gives tyres & bushings a hard time. It also causes tramlining & the car wanting to follow the camber of the road.

Slight toe in on the rear is desirable.
 

Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 04-25-2019 at 04:31 PM.
 
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