I have the exact same symptom as this video I found on "youtube" as you might expect I am desperate for an answer. Do not want to take a fuel pump out if I don't have to. Here is what my Jag does. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sObekzX2Ktk (don't click it, the person removed the flick)
Is there a member that might have a clue? I have sent an email to this owner to see if he was able to get help. I bought the car new and have 49,843 miles on it after 10 years.

 

I hate to speculate with your car if this video is not of yours. Did you check the fuel pressure on yours and do you have any codes and what are they?

 

Ill take fuel pumps for a $100 Pat
seriously, try to start the car and then dperess the shrader valve on the fuel rail with a small screw driver. If it dribbles or you get nothing. You need a pump at the least. Sometimes a link lead and evap loss cap due to burning electrical connections

 

Welcome to the forum,

Good advice from Brutal as always.
For further discussion please ask in the XJ8 forum.

 

welcome to the site, good to have you here on one of the friendliest forums around
Sorry to hear about your issues, but Brutals usually on the money so worth checking it out!

Jump in and enjoy......In the meantime I've manually upgraded you to full forum access so you can better view the site

 

Brutal, I spoke with Gus by phone and he suggested that I buy a fuel line pressure tester and I will do that today. I will let you guys know what I find out. The video showed good fuel pressure but acted just like mine so I was trying to take the quick route to eliminate the fuel pump. I have the capacity to take the tank out but it is not a small task. Fuel pump tester here I come.

 

Gus, thanks for taking the time to talk on the phone with me today. Will buy the tester and let you know the results. Also, the contact cleaner will be tried staight away.

 

Moderator, understand. I thought because I was a newbe I had to post to the general site. Will take care in the future.

 

OK, put a OBDII reader on it and the only code that came up was P1111, this seems to be an inlet air temperature indication. From the jag codes a high voltage here means the reading was less than -37 F. I have pluged and unpluged the connector to the connect on the air intake hose and put some dielectric silicone grease on the pins to prevent problems. They say the code could clear after 40 normal warmups but I will try and find out the problem with Intake air sensor is? Could this sensor cause the problem with the good starting and then sputtering and eventually stalling out?

 

Brutal, code reader had one fault P1111 which seems to be Intake Air Temperature high voltage. Could this be cause of good start and then sudden sputtering to the point of stalling? Will try and locate sensor and check. Thanks for any help. .............Chris

 

Brutal, I have an INNOVA 3100 which gave me one code P1111, this forum has said that this code is not what the generic code is. A member has said P1111 is sometimes incorrectly reported as IAT, but that code is definitely "Drive Cycle Test Passed" for a Jaguar. Do you concur? ..............Chris

__________________

 

Problem is solved, car runs like a champ. Scanner said it was P1111. Took the intake Air Flow sensor apart. This has both the Air temp thermistor and pitot tube for the air flow sensor in it. There was junk on the thermistor so I cleaned the bulb and then I found a dead moth up inside the pitot tube right up against the two resistor looking elements. Removed the moth and cleaned the sensor with alcohol. Put everything back and wala!! Car started up and ran great. How the moth got by the air filter is beyond me? But then again I have been finding stink bugs in all kinds of places. Thanks for the online help from the members. Gus, Brutal et. el

 

yes a p1111 is drive cycle complete for all onboard monitors, evap, egr, 02's etc.... and
p1000 is theyre not in readiness status.

 

I just got lucky then with patience. Thanks for your interest.