Thank you Jagv8 for your help. Will do. Just saw your thread a bit late but..Thanks guys this is a great thread to be on.

 

No problem. Someone just recently posted some of the PDFs etc on one of the other threads (if it wasn't this one lol).

I'm losing track of how many different problems the ZF 6HP26 box has.....
(while being a nice box when working)

 

Guys - I posted some time ago about following the trans fluid replacement - stumpled a bit with the connector, but got it done (thanks all).

I wanted to let folks know, that I did replace the 20 odd pan fasteners with stainless steel hex heads. In doing so, I found that I needed to utilize a METRIC FENDER WASHER under each - DO NOT use a standard metric washer. Use of the standard metric washer results in the load being applied ONLY to the compression limiters, as the OD of the washer is not sufficient to bear against the pan itself. Use of the larger fender washers will allow for the pan to be picked up upon torquing of the fasteners, establishing the clamp and seal at the pan mating face as required.

When a guy uses the small washers (standards), he no pick up the pan, just squeezes the compression limiter barrels in the pan = lots of leakage do to insufficient (none) sealing of the pan face.

And yes, unfortunately, I know this for a fact.

 

Im confused now

 

Did you take a picture?

 

Sorry, no pics - but imagine if you will, blood red fluid seeping from every fastener head and you get the picture.

No need for confusion.

When you buy the pan, take a close look at it, and in each fastener location around the perimeter, you will note a small metal barrel pressed into each of the holes. That little barrel is a compression limiter. It is manufactured to very specific tolerances in height (or length, if you prefer such a description). Note its height (or length) is slightly shorter than the thru holes in the pan. Its function is to prevent cracking/warping of the pan - in an over torqued condition, they take and share the load being applied by the pan. Therefore, the pan should be saved.

When you install this pan with the stock fasteners, they have a large flange head (the difference between stock and an off the shelf replacement - these are non standard, specials). When you torque the fastener up, the flange on the fastener head has an OD large enough to get outboad of the compression limiter in the hole, thereby bearing against the pan itself. As you move around to each location, torquing each fastener to spec, the pan is drawn up to the mating face on the trans, essentially sliding on each little barrel - basically "pressing" the pan up to the mating face around the limiters. Should you continue to torque the fasteners, the pan will deform locally - until you hit the barrel - hence limiting the compression the pan could see, and ultimately saving the pan from cracking/warping.

When I went to the standard M6 hex head and the standard washer, the OD of the washer was not sufficient to pick up the pan - a fact I failed to notice - so when I installed, I had virtually no load applied to the pan, as the diameter of each washer was so small as to not grab much of the pan itself. Basically, I torqued up to the limiters, and left the pan behind - not good. Re-installing with metric fender washers got me up to the OD of the stock fastener, let me pick up the pan when I torqued, and accomplish the face seel.

Compression limiter = safety stop. It prevents damage in the event of over torquing, by ostensibly establishing a set distance of compression, sharing the clamp load of the part if need be, thereby (hopefully), saving critical damage to the component being installed.

Use the fender washer if you go to a standard hex. No muss, no fuss.

 

Not to add to the confusion here but, were there washers installed before you originally removed the fluid pan? Or since you decided on using hex head bolts rather than the Torx, you added the standard metric washers and found that the OD was to small then you went to the fender washers.

On replacing the sleeve that you experienced some problem with. The sleeve is a one way in and one way out, there is a plastic nub on the inside of the sleeve that corresponds with the electrical connector inside the tranny. Sorry boys I did not take pictures of that!

 

No.

Stock condition is the "special" (meaning a non-standard) fastener. The head of the stock (OEM) fastener is flanged to an OD that matches a conventional fender washer. The head of the OEM fastener functions as the washer. My guess is the "special" was meant to eliminate a lot of small bits and pieces in the task - 21 fasteners instead of 21 fasteners + 21 washers.

I was reluctant to spend 2.50 per for 21 of those guys. We work with Fastenal as a fastener supplier here, so it was easier (and more cost effective) for me to go with a standard fastener. Plus, now I have SS hex drive fasteners, so if I have to go in again, she'll be a lot easier of a task.

The hex works fine, there is plenty of tool clearance for the socket to get on them (which was my biggest concern) - just get the metric fender washer to match.

 

It's all clear now. To me anyway.

 

Sorry to ask but what's a "metric fender washer"? (I know fender is wing, over here.) Are they just like any other washer except of a particular combination of diameters for outer size and inner hole? If so, what are those measurements? Metric probably means mm etc, which is fine if you can tell me the numbers

 

Not sure what size the washer come in, but the OEM bolts are 17.6mm or 0.7" in diameter and the thread is 5.8mm/0.23" in diameter. I fender washers are the generic name for a washer with a much larger OD given the same ID. Over here, the wing is the thing that goes over the boot.

 

Thanks.

Over the boot? Trunk?

... separated by a common language

 

"Metric" gets the thru hole correctly sized for the M6, an ID of 6.4mm.
"Fender" gets the large outer diameter correct for this application, an OD of 18mm.

Standard has an OD that is 12-12.5mm

 

Aha - thanks!

 

Once again most interesting reading and a lot of excellent info. 2004 STR

 

Replace fender for bumper over here. Our bumpers are usually fastened on with washers considerably wider than a standard washer to spread the tightening torque over more of the bumper especially as usually plastic now.

I intend doing this job this week or next week and have 2 options.

1. Use old bolts, unsure what difference is between old ones and supposed
upgraded ones. Do they have loctite on the threads? if so what colour
is the loctite. They aren't stretch bolts so can be used again.

2. Replace with new 6mm bolts using a suitable washer.


Thanks

 

THe main difference between the old and new bolt is the size of the torx driver required to remove them. The smaller one is prone to stripping if you live in an area more suceptable to corrosion. If they come out fine, no problems in reusing either but the suggestion is to replace with the new bolts.

No loctite but do recommend use of an anti-seize to facillate later removal. They are not stretch bolts

 

The new bolts have a larger sized torx head as the smaller old type ones are prone to stripping,

 

One final question on the topic. Do we know what the sump gasket is made from? Do the drain and fill plugs have washers or "o" rings?
Thanks

 

I don't know what its made of, but is molded and has relative high compliance so it may be used more then once. Can't remember what the drain plug has but o-ring would be my guess