My unprofessional thoughts would be the ATF goes up the pipe and circulates through rather than down, since the pipe is attached to the filter portion of the filter and not the transmission pan. Again this is my shade tree mechcanic thought.

 

Yes I think you are correct.

 

Sorry if I'm reviving an old thread but my wife's 04 S-type has the leak.
I was about to order the seal when I luckily re-read the entire thread to find that it is necessary to drop the pan to change this damn sleeve!

No one explained why the pan has to be dropped - I'm supposing based on one of the photos that there is a latch (white plastic widget) which needs to be lowered for the sleeve to be removed - and that it is the pan which keeps this latch in the up position - is this correct?

With the extra years hindsight can anyone confirm which cheap tranny oils work well? The castrol multi-import for example?

Since not all of the existing trans fluid can be removed is there any issue with the inevitable mixing of the synthetic $40/qt ZF oil and the cheaper stuff?

Finally, I found the BMW warranty Tech sheet on replacing the sleeve in the 6HP trans. Thought I'd add it to the thread.

attachment.php?attachmentid=230005&d=1273726276 - Preview ebook on iSeepdF.net

It's a pdf download.

cheers,
ken

 

Yes you are correct re the reason for the dropping of the pan, annoying but there it is. Are you sure thats where your leak is from? I had a slight leak that was from the pipework not the box itself.

 

Not 100% but I found oil dripping off the rear transmission mount, I just can't see where else it could be coming from.

 

The correct fluid is now MUCH chaper. Try jag but also Land Rover part LRN13754

 

Good news, were they shamed into it? $40/litre is daylight robbery!

 

Did not change the sleeve as it was not leaking. Yet. But I did change the transmission oil Three times after raising it on jacks . About three quarts each time it was changed. Checked the temperature via infrared tool and kept it at close to the 45 degrees.
Red Line is what I used and it worked perfectly mixed with whatever was in there. I've pushed it numerous times and that trasmission thank God is performing perfectly with Red Line.

 

I know it's always good practice to replace the pan gasket, but is it necessary? Thought I read somewhere that the pan gaskets reuse quite well but wouldn't want to waste time and effort in having to do the job twice.
Car has 60,000 miles on it.

Just so I havean alternative to the LR fluid, which Redline fluid is equivalent? Is there an API spec for the LR/Shell oil to use as a baseline?

 

You pays your money and you takes your choice.
I wouldn't skip the gasket, YMMV.

 

A new pan comes with the gasket. You should replace the pan as it contains the filter. The LR fluid is Lifeguard6 and cheap so why substitute. Change the sleeve whether leaking or not it's only worth $12.

This should be a no brainer...

 

I was wondering why people were changing the pan.

The pan and the filter are inseperable?

How ....er...."funny".

This is like having to buy a new fuel tank every time you need to fill up with gas.

So, I need a new pan, 7 litres of liquid gold, and the $12 part that I only actually have a problem with.

 

I was going to order the stuff for my car this week, but I left a message with Klaus at CTSC on last Friday and still have not received a response.

 

typical,

just order through website

 

Er, no. You can just change the $12 part.

I reckon it makes sense to choose to do the rest but it's your choice.

 

I didn't change the gasket as was in good condition. You can readily see if it's in need of replacement. It's just like any other rubber gasket nothing magical about it. And don't spend a fortune replacing the pan bolts for the new Jag ones. I replaced all mine, as most of the old ones stripped the heads when being removed, with standard hex head bolts and washers. PIcture here
http://s777.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=DSCF9109.jpg

 

I hope you pushed that sleeve in a far as you could, CAN Network faults will develop later down the road if you don't

 

I did go ahead and ordered it online, scheduled to arrive tomorrow. After almost 2 weeks still never had any sort of response from CTSC. If they weren't the cheapest I wouldn't even bother with them.

As far as replacing the fluid and seeing people mention measuring the temperature and such, why can't I just measure the amount of drained fluid and replace that much back in?

Hopefully this fixes the shifting issues I've been having. Once the car warms up, driving in town (stop 'n go) is almost impossible as it constantly jerks out of first gear, if it makes it out of 1st at all before throwing a gear fault.

 

The problem is that you don't know what the existing level is so you need to verify after filling.

 

Exactly. If your level was high or low at the start using your method it will still be high or low when you finish. A temperature measuring multimeter doesn't cost much mine cost £7 approx $10-11 hardly a great outlay to assure the correct level.