the PCM is very rare to go bad on the 4.0 especially to cause only 2 cylinders to misfire. I would be careful putting any spark plugin that are not oem. I see it all the time that you local autopart store "upgrades" you to the platinum plug and then runs worse than before and floods. Best thing to do is stick with what was put in at the factory.

You are on the right track with getting more coils. I have also seen injectors go bad on the 4.0l stypes but usually causes long cranking problems.

I also agree with tbird6 to check the secondary tensioners if the new coils dont fix it.

Austin

 

austinmartus brings up a very good point - NGK - Laser Platnium (Double Platnium) Premium Spark Plugs - OEM spec for 00 Jaguar 4.0 V8 - Part No: PFR5G-13E - about $10 - $12 per plug but well worth it.

 

+1 +1 +1 +1 +1

Amen, John.

BE AWARE, first generation S-Type PCM [single control module, no TCM] can technically only be configured properly to the ORIGINAL car. Attempted configuration to another car will render it a brick.

However, one can be used in another car in one case, that being an identically equipped car, and then only having the security immobilization reset. The car will then start and run normally. The main caveat is that the car WILL FLUNK an emission inspection/certification because the VIN's can never be made correct.

Cheers,

 

Thanks this site is awesome gonna try the plugs also. Hope it works, coils on order..

 

Looks like the guy who put in the spark plugs cracked the ceramic.....reset the light and so far so good. Thanks

 

Congrats!

Still would be nice of you to go to "User CP" and "Edit Signature" and put your vehicle details in it.

 

Sorry thought I did, I will recheck thanks to all, I'm sure there will be more problems to come

 

Good deal!

 

To good.to be true.. Misfire cylinder 8 changed plug and coil. What else should I check. Cars not misfiring when I drive.

 

Get a good stethoscope and listen to all the injectors for the tink, tink, tink of each while it idles. See if #8 sounds flat by comparison. Might be an injector issue at your mileage.

Good luck!

 

Where should I put the stethoscope?

 

On the colored housing of the injector itself. Just try to use the same spot on each one.

 

Thanks..

 

Ok, I got a check engine light and it is throwing a P1314 code. Got it checked at Autozone. the P1314 is the 5 and 8 cylinders misfire. I replaced both of these coils and found that the Autozone had the newer cylinders listed and not the older ones (1999 engine) on the listed ones. So basically I replaced the two incorrect ones (8 turned out to be same cylinder on old and new cylinder map) However, it is still same problem. Engine is running rough. Any suggestions as to where to go from here. i am so frustrated. Also throwing P0020 code. but one battle at a time.

 

I'd stop running the engine and get the LH cam cover off to inspect the secondary tensioner. Look for it loosing a slipper and maybe jumping a tooth on the chain.

Good luck!

 

Ok, I believe I need to replace those tensioners, but the problem may be deeper. I have washed the engine on the Jag dozens of times, but this last time I got a bit "enthusiastic" and really did a number on it. will NEVER make that mistake again. First off, the last mechanic to work on my car put the covers on backwards so water went down into the spark plug wells filling them up. So I dried those all out. However, it continued to run rough. I think I shorted something because the engine was working great until I did a number on it with the wash. The full code list is this: P0300,(5&8 cylinders)P0020, P1314, P1316 and P1111. Based on this, do you think I fried something vs. the tensioners. I found from Jaguar P0020 OBD/DLC Error Code - "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit "Possible causes of OBD code P0020
A code P0020 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Faulty oil control valve (OCV) Open or short in the VVT/VCT circuit Open or short in the OCV / solenoid valve Damaged computer (PCM)" Thanks

 

Check them in the correct codes PDF for your exact car (in the stickies & in JTIS). Lists all the known potential causes, too.

Some of the codes on THAT site are wrong. Be very wary about trusting it.

 

After you check for oil or water . Run a hose down the windshield and see if any water is dripping into the engine bay. If it is , seal the bottom seal on the windshield and the coil and plug covers ,so water can't get to the plugs.
If you have oil in that plugs you should purchase the valve cover kits and replace both covers and all gaskets . The covers warp with heat over time and never seem to seal well with just the new gaskets. Sometimes OEM gaskets will do the trick but they didn't work for me on my 2000 4.0 engine and I have 57,000 miles.

 

Just a small comment. If you wash the engine and get something wet it normally does not cause permanet damage. So a good drying out will usually get it back to working.
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