You were told wrong

Treat whoever told you it with caution if they told or tell you anything else!

 

Allright heres the deal...at the moment i have the car "feild fixed" (for lack of a more acceptable term) and the car runs fine now. The restricted performance display is gone, however the check engine light is still on. The correct replacement part is due for delivery as of mon-tue next week. Install should take a whole 2 minutes (if i take my time) and i plan on attempting to clear the codes thereafter.

Quik question...can i bypass all the driving 3 trips ten miles yadayada and disconnect the battery to reset the ECU and clear codes?? I just ask because my MOPAR is this way.

Lastly, if i do have to go through the driving ten miles for 3 trips yadayada do the three trips have to be consecutive?? I just ask because we have a 180 mile trip coming up next fri that would be perfect for such a thing. And i ask because ive already gone for 3 trips for greater than ten miles but they were not admittedly "consecutive". Or is this "certain" speed more important than just hitting the cruise at 65-70 for the given trips/distances? After a bit more instruction im going to try all of the above and then go to the auto zone again and plug the freakin tool in myself and ill report back with what i find (codes etc). Thanks for all the feedback guys!

 

Any way you clear the codes will create a P1000 until the car has been through what's known as a full drive cycle when it should change to P1111 - but it may not change if there are other codes which occur first and indeed codes can come back at any time.

Clearing codes with an OBD tool resets all manner of things but does not reset the learned stuff like fuel trims, misfire detection etc. If you disconnect the battery you clear those too but if the car has problems then (as it will be forced to relearn things) it may get into a real mess. You don't want it trying to relearn unless it is fixed!

Details of the driving etc needed are in the codes PDF, in JTIS, the FAQs or Gus's site. It's several pages so I'm not going to try to put it here.

 

SEVERAL PAGES!!!

lol Thanks man!

 

OK.....

It has been a while since i last posted and we have made much progress since then. Heres what has happened...
I recieved the new part 2 weeks ago and as expected it took all of 30 sec to install. Ever since the "field fix" the car has run prefect. Espically since the actual fix. Still tho the check engine light stayed on.
Took the car to AutoZone (again) today and made sure the OBD scanner plugged in lol. Had 6 codes. Deleated them and drove the car 15 miles. Stopped, turned it off, and back on. Drove about another 5 miles before the light popped on while cruising. One was the P1000 (prolly needed to do the 30 miles) and the other PO430 (bank 2 cat low efficiency) which means the bank 2 cat is bad or the rear o2 on that side is shot. I will clear codes and drive thar again Sat for the full 30 miles before i buy anything (at least) and report back.

 

OK, not quite fixed but sounds promising. Don't give up, P0430 isn't the worst code going

If P1000 won't change to P1111 then check the (OBD) Monitors as that may give clues to why.