Tom. I don't disagree with what you are saying. I said taking apart the suspension only takes an hour. You are right about replacing the boots if that is the only problem. On my S-types, I have found that since they are over 10 years old, the bushing on the a-arms were getting sloppy, so to me it is a false economy to only replace the boot when presently for $35.00 to $50 each you can replace the whole arm and not have to worry about bad bushings. It isn't easy to tell the state of the bushings unless you remove the arms.

I can say that I spent more time cleaning the parts off the car than it takes to take it apart. I found it took longer to put the suspension back together than to take apart

I don't disagree that getting the car staged to take apart, taking it apart, cleaning, replacing parts and putting it back together will take a total of 6 hours per side, assuming you have all the new parts sitting there and don't have to purchase anything else.
(While I had the spindles off the car, I replaced the bearings/hubs as well.

 

Another option in the UK for Ball joint boots etc.

See boots 2,3 and 4 for the S type as well as other Jaguar types.

Ball Joint Boots, Track Rod End Boots, Tie Rod End Boots and Track Control Arm Ball Joint Boots, Replacement Rubber Boots for cars and light commercial vehicles.

good postage rates as well.

 

I have several torn boots but there is no problem with how the ball joints or tie rod ends function yet.. "Yet" is the gig word here but I haven't planned on changing any until they get loose..

 

My upper control arms arrived today. Not Lemforder. Instead they are made by TRC / Rung Cherng Suspenparts.co - the Part numbers are not listed on the internet and I couldn't find the a-arms listed in any of their catalogs. When I get a chance I'll compare them more closely with one I replaced. I am wondering about the alloy used and if they are manufactured by the same process. Visually, they look exactly the same as Lemforder castings, just different numbers stamped on them.

 

The point is, you repair replace the rubber boot cover to protect the bearing, cheap.

or

you replace the complete suspension arm, bearing etc which is expensive, after it is worn out.

Tackling the problem early, once the rubber protection boot has split, and renewing it is will cheaper in the log run.

That's all I am saying, it is your choice.

 

$38 per arm is expensive? If you are doing your own work, very inexpensive versus the potential gain in ball joint stiffness and bushing stiffness. At this price, I'd be willing to replace every few years.

I you are paying dealer labor rates and for OEM parts, then replacing the boot is the way to go if you can do that yourself for a few bucks.

Luckliilyy Jaguar continued to use the same upper front and rear control arms, so there are many model years using them and they are still readily available.

 

No, $38 per side is not expensive. I am unsure of the wisdom of installing the cheapest parts possible, especially on a control arm/ball joint, but it is your car and your life so you're welcome to replace OE control arms with no-name Taiwanese parts if you like. I checked out that company's website. Their "news" section showed photos from a 2007 trade show and they misspelled two car makes on one of the pages. Not really the attention to detail I would be looking for in a life-safety part on one of my cars.

I started this thread to show it was possible to save time and money by prolonging the life of otherwise good suspension parts by replacing torn boots before the joint could get contaminated and fail but it has degraded into a back ad forth about who can rebuild a front end in less time and for less money.

Nobody disputes the fact that the alternative is to replace all of the parts but my car, with less than 70K miles on it, simply needed new boots to pass inspection (which I later disputed as a "cause for failure" with the state department of safety and won, BTW). If my bushings or ball joints were bad I would have bitten the bullet and replaced the whole arm but in my case the other parts were fine and all I needed was the boots. Had I replaced my arms I would have used quality aftermarket name-brand parts however - it is just not worth the risk to me to save a few dollars to have unknown quality parts holding my wheels in place.

 

So how did those work out? Did they Fit okay?...Wondering cause i'm about to have to change mine. Just when i thought all was good to go.

So i noticed that the listing crossed listed those as a LS/jaguar part. Im curious about if it is a cross part as Rockauto was out or had very expensive upper arms for 2004 stype, but plenty of LS ones listed.

 

The new uppers are still sitting on my parts shelf. I purchased them for spares. My cars don't really need new uppers replaced yet.

I wrote the manufacturer a couple of times and they never responded.
I will write again, a third time.

 

Update on Upper control arm material and fabrication.

TRC replied to my E-mail. Not as much detail as I would like, but they did answer several of my questions.
1. The TRC Upper control arms are fabricated using 6061 Aluminum followed by the T6 heat treatment. (The majority of Aluminum suspension parts are made with 6061 alloy)
Through internet searches, I am confident that Lemforder aluminum suspension parts are fabricated using 6082 alloy. My understanding is that 6082 is very close in composition to 6061 and is used primarily in Europe. – 6082 has a bit higher ultimate strength, and is a bit more brittle than 6061 – You can look up the properties if you want to get into the nitty-gritty differences.
Note: In 2008 to 2010 timeframe other alloys have started being used for suspension parts. A356 and B-206 alloys. I wonder if Jaguar uses any of the new materials in their latest generation suspensions.
2. TRC states they use the same fabrication techniques as Lemforder. Not sure if the upper control arms are made from a casting, pressure casting, or forging. They are likely made using a PM (permanent mold)
3. TRC sells this control arms to many part supply houses that warranty the arms for 5 or 10 years. (I suppose if one breaks, you would go after/sue the importer/part supply house.)
4. TRC has been in business for over 20 years. Searching the internet, I find references that they have had contracts with Honda, Hyundai, Mitsubushi, and Nissan to produce OEM suspension components. If they produced inferior parts, I suspect there would be complaints about their products. I didn’t find any.
5. This is speculation, but I found many references that Lemforder is having many of their parts manufactured in Taiwan and China. There is the possibility that the Lemforder Jaguar parts come out of the TRC factory. (I suppose we could write Lemforder and ask where their Jaguar parts are made.) – If Lemforder parts are in fact made from 6082 alloy, this supports a higher probability that they are made in Germany.
6. For readers concerned that non-oem suspension parts are inferior to OEM or Lemforder, there is a low probability that TRC part will perform, fail or operate differently. For all I know, perhaps the bushings and boots are higher quality than OEM.
7. Searching on upper control arms for S-type Jaguars, I found a third "unbranded" control arm. I wonder who makes this one?

 

So what's the idea with the "poly boots" vs the other rubber ones also mention in this thread?

Do they hold up better or worse because they're less flexible?

About the same price and I need to replace mine.

BTW does anyone have a general procedure for how to replace these boots?
Am I going to have deal with the springs, I would assume so ...

Thanks.

 

How long did it take you to replace these and what was your sequence of steps.

Thanks.

 

I got both the poly and rubber boots from the same place in Europe. Both would work, but the poly ones seems a little stiffer and a little tougher, although I am sure that either will work fine. The poly ones are probably less resistant to drying out and oil problems one may get from the road.

Here are the steps as outline by Alldata: Much different than just boot replacement.

Upper Arm RH

Removal

1. Remove the shock absorber and spring assembly.
2. Remove the cabin air filter.

1. Remove the cabin air filter housing retaining nut.

1. Remove the cabin air filter housing.

1. Remove the engine compartment support.

1. Remove the engine compartment panel.

1. Detach the wiring harness mounting bracket.

1. Remove the upper arm retaining nut.

1. Detach the engine compartment battery junction box.

1. Release the engine compartment battery junction box retaining clips.
2. Detach the engine compartment battery junction box.

1. Detach the hydraulic control unit.

1. Remove the upper arm retaining nut.

1. Remove the upper arm.

Installation

1. Install the upper arm.

1. Install the upper arm retaining nut.

1. Install the upper arm retaining nut.
2. Install the shock absorber and spring assembly.

1. CAUTION: The final tightening of the Upper arm retaining nut must be carried out with the vehicle on its wheels.

Tighten to 47 Nm .

1. CAUTION: The final tightening of the Upper arm retaining nut must be carried out with the vehicle on its wheels.

Tighten to 47 Nm .

1. Attach the hydraulic control unit.

1. Attach the engine compartment battery junction box.

1. reposition the engine compartment battery junction box .
2. Attach the engine compartment battery junction box.

1. Attach the wiring harness mounting bracket.

1. Install the engine compartment panel.

1. Install the engine compartment support.

1. Install the cabin air filter housing.

1. Install the cabin air filter housing retaining nut.
2. Install the cabin air filter.

 

Chevy truck repair steps????????????????????????????????????????????? ??????

 

Ummm, that still doesn't look right

 

Sorry, Alldata wants to be cute. Attached is the .doc correct form.

I forgot that when copy and pasted that Alldata to preserve their profit likes to change the illustrations.

Tom in Dallas/Plano

 

So there is no labor savings by just replacing the boots?

What's involved with removing the spring & shock absorber assembly?
Mine are leaking slightly but the shop didn't suggest replacing them yet.

My tire/suspension shop quoted $200 for the arms but I imagine that's for aftermarket arms.

 

Not correct. There is a huge savings to remove the boots and replace- not only in time, but money. One would be for a first time event about a 6 hour job. To only replace the boots is about 30 min. at most and less than $10 for parts.

Attached is the instruction for spring/strut removal. The control arm one is is post# 36

Tom in Plano/Dallas

 

Hi Tom,

I guess I'm not understanding this then.

The shock and spring has to come out. So same either way.

Then the arm has to come out.

Where is the time savings?

Or does the arm not have to come out with the spring & shock removed?

Thanks.

 

NO- to replace the boots only the spring and strut do NOT need to come out. You just have to support the steering knuckle.

This is from user nhdoc; who pm me other info, but you can find his original post here. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...orn-up-134465/"If yours is the same as mine you can loosen the nut and push the ball joint up and out, then remove the old boot. You will see there are retaining rings on the old boot once you remove it and you can re-use them. The new boot stretches over the ring that sits at the bottom of the threaded shaft (put a little grease on it to help it slide over). As I recall I lifted the car and removed the weight off the wheel, then the nut can be removed and the upper arm will simply come up and out of the knuckle. I did need to manipulate it a little to get it back in, just a matter of lowering the car a little to align the hole in the knuckle with the ball joint so it can go in."

Tom in Dallas/Plano