I think a fairly early IDS/SDD like 1.30 will just automatically switch to IDS for a VIN of the sort of year you have. (Does for my STR.)

I'm fairly sure all clone devices are not equal so it may be I got lucky with what I bought, and you may or may not be. Also, I've stayed away from reprogramming.

I gather some other OBD tools such as Foxwell (er, 510?) read codes OK - have a hunt for threads.

 

Car has sat for another week. I was working on an issue on one of my X-types and walked by the STR. Just for grins, I took my X-type key and slid it into the lock. Wow! it went all the way in. On top of that, I turned it and it actuated the unlock function. Tried turing it to the lock position, and the key wuldn't turn the other direction. But, WTF, why does my X-type key unlock my lock? Then I went to where I keep all the Jaguar keys and grabbed several other key fobs. Out of 5 different keys that fit the lock, one other one unlocked the lock too. (What is the probability that 2 out of 5 keys would unlock the doors?)
Then I put the original STR key into the lock and it both locked and unlocked the doors. (Looks like the penetrating oil finally loosened things up.)

Tried all 6 keys in the ignitions switch. Whew! Only the correct key turns the cylinder.

OTOH, Tried to start the car, nothing, the same problem listed above still exists. At least I don't have to worry about the doors not locking and/or being part of the cause why the car wont start.

 

Tijoe, can you hear the steering lock actuating as you put the key in ?
Does you alarm fob work ? If it does arm the alarm and unlock with the key in the door, then see if the ignition key will disarm the alarm. This will tell you if the car is reading the key.
If it isn't then your car won't start.
If that's the case then you need to program your keys, you will need 2.
If you don't have 2 keys let me know and I'll tell you a work around. 😉

 

- Does you alarm fob work ? YES

- If it does arm the alarm and unlock with the key in the door, Yes it alarms when I lock all of the doors by pushing the lock fob button 2 times. it honks the horn and flashed the running lights to let me know it is locked, I can then use the key and it disarms the alarms and opens the door. Note: If I use the key to unlock the driver door turning the key a second time, all the doors unlock momentarity, but then the remaining 3 doors lock, then unlock. If I use the fob button, the other 3 doors will lock and stay locked.

- then see if the ignition key will disarm the alarm. YES it disarms the alarm as far as I can tell.

Can you hear the steering lock actuating as you put the key in? A little confused what your are asking with this one. When I put the key in the ignition, and turn it to the first position, the steering wheel is free and can be turned. But I don't hear any "actuation sounds in the steering colums, but OTOH, never recall hearsing any sound like that in the steering column in the past when the car did start.

Re-ran the PATS light code again today. It still displays "code 22"

 

22 looks to be that the Inst Pk (dash panel) does not know/recognise the PCM's ID.
From 4.5.13 of jag course

 

Code 22 has already been identified and discussed (post #10). Have been tryinging eliminate the door lock problem before tackling the code 22 problem. Was eliminating the door locks as perhaps a contributing factor to code 22.
Thanks for another good Jaguar document.

The question now is there anything I can do to try to clear the code 22 without having IDS programming and troubleshooting capabilities? I guess I could purchase a reader that will display all of the "B" codes to see if there are more PATs errors. Or should I spend that money on getting IDS programming and reading capability.

 

If I want to scrounge and purchase IDS programming capability, how would you go about doing this for an 03 STR?
This appears to be the best thread I have been able to find relating to S-Type IDS in my year range.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...estion-226184/

Can anyone summarize this thread regaring what they would purchase? Hardware and best place to get compatible software.

 

Have you checked BCM or other applicable relays?

 

I bet the previous stuck lock has some stuck stuck in it so some tumblers are stuck in the open position. So when you put a different key in it as long as that key activates one or two other tumblers they can be turned.

I use sdd v131.03 on my 06 str and its a lifesaver. Just make sure you have a stable clean power supply the power the car while you use it and you shouldn’t have any programming problems. Are use the iolta 55a supply as it mimics the suggested model

 

No. Have not checked relays or BCM. Thanks. Something else to investigate.

 

I am finally getting back to investigating my PATS problem. Recently I purchased an ICarSoft code reader for troubleshooting an X-type problem. A couple days ago I put the reader on my STR and read the Instrument cluster codes. 11 codes total. 3 of the Codes are PATS related and probably why the engine wont turn over.
B1600 (flashing light code 11)
B1681 (flashing light code 13)
U1900 - A CAN communication fault - antitheft

Searched the forum and downloaded Tech Bulletin S419-12 (PATS system diagnostics)

I have started testing the straight forward things like fuses/relays/ continuity tests.

In order to follow the flowcharts I need access to the FC52 connector on the back of the PATS Transceiver.

QUESTION: How the heck do I get access to the ignition switch area of an STR and get to the FC52 connector?

I have not found any details how to access the transceiver?

 

The Electrical Guide Fig 02.2 seems to suggest it's (near/behind) the steering column cowling - which makes sense as it's got to pick up the tiny thing in the key I think.

 

This is the connector I am trying to access.

The section of the dashboard where the ignition switch is locate is one large piece. Took the lower steering column cover off, but no way to get behind the dashboard to the connector. Not sure if I have to remove the center console and radio.

 

On my 06 str i accidently found out how to get it out because i wanted to check the internals. Push inward on the switch and it should pop out of the holding tangs. You can then unplug the connection and get it out somewhat to see things. Oh, take the lower steering column shroud off too

 

I have the steering column shroud off, and can reach up and touch the back side of the switch assembly. I tried pushing straight on to the switch. Nothing. Where there are 3 notches in the dash opening I carefully tried to find or pry on supposed holding tangs. I can get the assembly to pop up some, but it wont push back or out. Wondering if there are any images out there showing this detail. Note: The JTIS really sucks on describing any required techniques or details. Do I really have to detach the ignition switch lock cylinder interlock cable from the J-Gate? All I need at this point in time is to get to the CF52 connector so it can be removed and I can access the pins for continuity and 12V tests.

The JTIS make is look like there is a tang/spring plastic piece that hold the assembly in place.
Perhaps the Image I posted of the lock above is a pre-facelift version and the switch below is the correct one on the STRs. It this the correct switch for the 03s and newer? Thoughts?

 

I was able to push down on the tab that is located on the top of the switch, that then located the switch at an angle that let me lift the switch up and back. as you can see in the pictures, the green 4-pin connector is the one I need to test for voltages and continuity. As I pushed and lifted on CF52s removal tab the "dry rotted" tab broke off of the connector. Appears that new connectors are available from one place for $0.99 each, but one will have to purchase 11 of them plus $10.00 in shipping. I will have to think about ordering 11 of them. Perhaps the connector will stay in without its retaining tab.

 

What's with the chunk missing from the corner of the connector body, seen in your last picture? Was it like that as installed, or did that happen during removal? Does it even affect the electrical connection?

Does the connector have two locking tabs? If so, one broken wouldn't matter. Even without any locks, it would probably be fine. Can you wrap a Tyrap around there for piece of mind?

 

You can see in this image where the locking tang broke off the bottom of the connector. The locking tab broke when I grabbed it by hand to try to release it. Connector never sees any sunlight, yet the plastic is brittle and in amazingly bad condition.

 

Update: I removed the Instrument Cluster assembly to access connector FC015, Pin 004. (Chasing down the B1681 fault code (LED code 11) and did a continuity check to pin 2 on FC052. The wire is good.
Per the Technical bulletin, the flowcharts for both my the B1681 and B1600 stop at "Contact Dealer Technical Support for further assistance"
from what I have gleaned so far, It appears that something has gone bad in my Instrument Cluster.
I have another mystery in that last year I thought the primary PATS LED flashing indicated Code 22 as the primary code. Now the primary code that flashes is Code 11. I don't see a fault code 22 (B21410) recorded in my ICarSoft reader.

It appears that I need to focus on the Instrument cluster for now. I started reading threads on problems with the IC and everything I read points me in the direction of needing WDS capability.
Now I am back to wanting/needing to purchase a diagnostic and programming capability so I can further test and/or program the IC if it needs to be rebuilt and/or replaced.

I will try to search the forum again for what I should purchase, but if any of you can recommend (again) what you use would be appreciated.


.

 

Rotunda VCM is the best option by far and can be found pretty cheap.