Here I go again.
My 03 STR has sat for about 4 months without being started. It is sitting on a slope, with the back end sitting higher than the front. The battery has a trickle charger on it so I assumed it is charged. (in the past I have had issues with a dead battery and the car not starting after it was charged.)

I sat in the car put in the key and when I put it to the on position, interior, gauges, screen all came to life as normal. When I went to start it, nothing. No starter click, nothing, it is dead to the world.
Also I did not hear the typical priming of the fuel pump when I turned on the ignition. (This exact same thing happened to me a couple years ago, but heck if I can remeber how I got the car to start.)
(Since the car is on a slope, I reached in and checked the inertia switch, It is engaged and I think it only affects the fuel system )

I pulled the negative terminal and put on my full size battery charger for about an hour, then checked the battery voltage. Seems OK at 12.8 volts. Put the negative cable back on the battery, then put the charger back onto the battery in the high current crank setting. Climbed back into the car, same thing, no crank.

Then spent about 40 minutes trying to locate a PDF that I thought has things to check why the car wont turn over, and general searches on S-type not starting or turning over, or ignition switch wont start car...

Hopefully one of you guys will have a book mark on the PDF, or a list of things to look at as to why the starter wont engage and start the car.
(Some control module electrical interlock not being satisfied comes to mind.)

Thanks.

 

At the base of the shift lever, make sure P or N is illuminated. If not, the starter command is inhibited. Move the lever back and forth to see if that changes anything.

Next, please observe the PATS indicator light on the dash, at the base of the windshield. This is for the security system, which may have inhibited the starter (and/or fuel injectors) as a precaution. Here is how it's supposed to behave if all is good:

First, lock the car with the key fob. Press the lock button a second time to set the alarm system. The horn should chirp once. Watch the little red light. It should flash once every 3 seconds or so to show the system is armed. Now press the key fob unlock button twice to unlock all the doors. The red light should go out. Now hop in the driver's seat and turn the key to RUN (Not start yet). The red light should come on solid ONCE for about 3 seconds and then go out. If it flashes anything after that, you've got a stored fault.

 

Thanks for the great input and thing to test.
-Gear shift light is on for park, or neutral, or Drive.
-Tried to put my key into the door. Key only goes in 1/2 way. I haven't used a key in a couple years to open the door. (Sprayed penetrating oil into the key opening. hasn't worked yet to be able to put in the key.)
-Tried to lock the doors with the fob. Doors won't lock. As a result, can't get the chirp.
-With the key in the ignition on, no lights on the PATs.
-With the key in crank position, light flashes fast red, and wont stop until

I now have an error code P0335 - Crankshaft sensor circuit "A" fault.

Ideas?

 

If PATS flashes fast, does it change to a code pattern after a while?

 

Yes it does. Now I have to learn everything associated with PATs codes. I found the attached document and will read up to see what code my light indicates.

What a PITA!
1, I am assuming that my first problem is that I still can't get the key to go into the lock cylinder and turn per kr98664's input.
I have been spraying a rust releasing penetrating spray into the key hole, waiting about an hour, then trying the key. Not working.
I slid in a dental-pick style straight probe into the lock hole and poked it around and it seems to hit a hard solid surface, so perhaps my penetrating spray isn't actually going into the cylinder itself.
(Any ideas?)
Then I pushed in a small tube affixed to an air gun and blasted 120 psi into the opening to try to blow out any debris and/or crub, followed by more penetrating oil.
That Didn't work. I really can't remember that last time I actually used the key on the door, it has been that long.
(Several months ago, I had the key not work on the door in one of my X-types and penetrating oil worked almost instantly to put the key in.)

2. I hope I don't have to remove the door panel and pull the lock/handle.
3. Am I correct in assuming that the car not being able to electrically lock the doors may be the root cause of the PATs disabling the ignition?

 

The door lock isn't involved in starting or preventing starting. You can ignore it for now.

The column lock has the detecting ring that looks at the key code (embedded in the little thing inside the key).

 

So, i, uh, was kinda wondering, um, ya know, um, maybe, would you perhaps be willing to um share the code with us mortals incapable of mind-reading? Looking through the list of possible codes, I didn't see anything too embarrassing that would make you keep the code to yourself. I didn't see any codes for "Driver keeps playing disco music" or "Driver doesn't wear pants". Whatever the code may be, it's safe to share with us. You're amongst friends. We don't judge. Not too much, anyway.

 

Try as I may, try as I might, I can not figure out the pattern of the blinking lights....

So far, I have sat in the driver's seat and watched the LED light pattern 5 times, trying to figure out the main code. I don't know if I have lost my sense of rythm, or am blind, versus my ability to count time.
Quite frustrating to say the least. When I get another block of free time, I will try again.
In the mean time, I have disconnected the battery and will hook it up again before my next go at the codes. (Read somewhere online this morning that this might help re-initialize the PATs system, and clear the codes.

Since the LED is flashing for the first minute, this means that the flashing LED is for "customer fault codes"


Good to know that the key locks are not associated with the PATs errors.

From the PDF I posted:
When a PATS fault is apparent, the instrument cluster will store a DTC and indicate this to the customer by illuminating the LED in the following manner. The LED will be illuminated for 60 seconds (flashing for customer fault codes, continuous for non-customer fault codes); the LED will then be extinguished for 2.5 seconds. The first digit of the fault code will then be flashed. The total LED 'on/off' time per single flash will be one second, this being repeated for the relevant number of times to count the first digit. The LED is then off for a further 1.5 seconds before the second digit of the fault code is flashed, again the total 'on/off' time per single flash will be one second with the number of repeats being the second digit (see Fig. 2 below). The fault code flash routine will be repeated up to 10 times. The indication will stop immediately if the ignition is turned to 'OFF' at any time during the fault indication sequence. (Note: Only the highest priority fault code will be flashed).

 

My key is the same key that started the car 4 months ago. Unless having the car just sitting there with a trickle charger connected, killed the detector ring, or somehow the key went bad sitting in a drawer, I hope something like that didn't fail out of lack of use.

 

It appears that I have Code 22 as my primary code that the light is flashing.

Code 22 - B2141 No ECM identification stored in the Instrument Cluster..

Any way to correct this on my own?

 

It's like a rodent has chewed wires or some such...

 

It is strange that this has happened without something disturbing the system and especially without the battery voltage dropping to 0. As mentioned broken wires will do it as will poor connections. Water in the connectors or control boxes will also cause problems and perhaps being left on a slope has resulted in water getting in where it should not?? You need to have a good look around for any possible water ingress.

I have never done it myself but I would think that you need to use the Jaguar software, IDS for an 03 model S-type, for the car to re-learn what transponder is in the key, but the chances are it may not sort out the problem if any of the faults mentioned above still exist on the car. (The x-type is different in regard to key programming and methods that work on the x-type will not work on the S-type.)
Sorry the above is not much hepl but others on here may know more about this than me.

Mellow

 

What if the voltage droped to 0 now and again while the car was sitting there? Would that make a difference in the possible reasons why PATs went crazy?

 

Just thinking out loud, but I don't see how voltage dropping to zero would be much different than disconnecting the battery. That in itself shouldn't cause any problems. I'd have to imagine the various computer modules were designed in anticipation of a battery going dead. That's a fairly common occurrence.

Still just thinking, but what if the battery had failed while on the maintainer? Most battery maintainers don't put out a constant voltage. Rather, they put out a charge current for a few minutes and then monitor the battery while letting it rest. The charge current is repeated as conditions dictate. With a good battery, the cycle might go for days or even longer. With a bad battery, the charge cycles could repeat rapidly, depending how "smart" the charger is.

It's this possibility of rapid cycling that has me scratching my head. If indeed this was happening, it could have been like repeatedly turning power on and off. Electronics are never happy if you kill power during a boot-up. A few times is not going to be a big deal. But if this kept happening over and over in rapid fire?

I need to stress this is just a theory. No idea what to suggest on a practical level. As previously mentioned, the fault could be as basic as mice chewing some wiring, so don't get too bogged down with my crackpot theory.

I also noticed that PATS troubleshooting guide isn't a whole lot of help for your code. It says you should only see it after installing a new instrument cluster. I'm not sure what to make of that.

 

Is your scanner showing B2141? Or are you just going by the PATS light flashing code 22, and B2141 came from the troubleshooting guide? I ask because you had previously been unsure of deciphering the flashing light. Just wanted to make sure we're headed down the right path.

 

By the PATS light flashing code 22. I don't have a reader that will read "B" codes

 

I don't want to go off topic on my own thread, but can someone reccomend a great source for a jaguar IDS package (version 129, or version 130?) that will work with my car without wiping my modules if I have to do some reprogramming? A while back I did all the research as to what to purchase, but have forgotten. As I recall, they said avaiod Mongoose and Chinese hardware. Is this still true? Thanks.

 

I think you are mixing up your jaguar software and versions.
It is SDD version 130 that is the version recommended to work on S-type cars that are 05 model year or newer.
I do not know the last version of IDS that works on the older cars like your 03 model.
SDD is supposed to see that it is an older car and then switch to IDS, but most of the versions that are available will then fail to start the IDS as the software will not find the correct interface.

I think it is possible to use IDS with a mongoose interface, but as soon as the mongoose drivers are updated, as is required for SDD, then IDS will not work.
However, as my car is an 05 model year I have never had to use IDS so others should have more knowledge to add and/or correct the above information and I would welcome anyone to please do so.

Mellow

 

On a practical level, your best course of action might be to find a local independent Jaguar specialty shop. Talk to them and explain the symptoms and the code you retrieved. Hopefully they would have the knowhow to deal with any reprogramming that might be required. Trying to round up the correct interface and learn all the intricacies yourself? I see a massive potential for trouble (Future post: Is this bad? "No modules found on data bus")

It's one thing to teach yourself the system when all is working well. It's another story when part of the system is acting up, but you don't really know why. Picture teaching yourself to swim in a calm lake versus jumping into the middle of the ocean during a storm. "Say, maybe if I click this button..."

 

I am the closest thing to being the local Jaguar expert. I found that the one foreign car shop is pretty inept at working on later model Jaguars.1990s to mid 2000s. The closest Jaguar steal-er-ship is over a 4 hour drive. I tried to work with them on helping me to enable DSC function on one of my X-Type's its ECM and they had no knowledge and expressed no interest in helping me. I live in Montana after all. Jaguars are about as common as Biden for president signs. With crap like this, I am on my own along with my fellow forum experts.

I started to get up to speed regarding the IDS, SDD software and the revisions a year plus ago, along with what hardware was best for programming/updating modules, due to of another problem on one of my X-types and never followed through, therefore have forgotten what I read. I know there are a lot of threads on ISD and SDD, and I never was able to figure out what was best to purchase software and hardware wise to program updates, rather than just read codes.