Hello all,

Long time lurker, first time poster.

Have just stepped into the world of STR ownership, and bought myself a sick cat. I'm a bit of a 'fixer' by nature so no problems getting my hands dirty, I knew the car had a few issues when I bought it (brave or stupid?) which meant I got a fantastic knockdown price, and I'm slowly working through fixing them with the aid of these forums - and for the help they've provided so far, both pre- and post- purchase, I thank you all!

Which leads me to my current issue - Engine light, seemingly random intermittent restricted performance, and running hot - very hot in fact, fan is on full blast all the time. Diagnostic mode tells me it's running at 109DegC.

OBD Printout throws:
P0171, P0174 (L/R Bank Lean),
P0400 (EGR),
P1606 (EMS Control Relay Malf.)
P1797 (Can TCM to ECM Malf.)

I suspect the last 2 may be due to the fact I just put a new battery on her to cure a whole load of other issues, so lets ignore those for now, clear them and see if they return.

SO What I've done so far - as recommended in other posts - is check all the hose connections I can find with soapy water, to no avail.

Obvious choice next is the EGR. I have no problems stripping to get at the EGR and have a butchers, but it looks completely buried under the back of the S/C, so it may perhaps be quite a big job? I've searched for a guide but to no avail - would very much appreciate a link if someone has one handy. Do I ruin any gaskets along the way?

The main reason for my post is this: If anyone has any wise suggestions of simple fixes to try, or additional diagnostic tests to carry out before I get that far, then please do let me know now - otherwise tomorrow is set aside for getting greasy :-D

Sam

 

eek, that's HOT. Be very worried and try not to get it that hot, or at least mine doesn't. I've no idea when a warped head is a risk...

People tend to change the EGR "while they're in there". Ah, where? Changing the hose under the SC!! So, look for STR threads (see stickies) about that. Try to NOT do it. But if you do, follow those threads in detail and yes the various gaskets etc.

You've some odd codes there. Do they come back the same and in which order? Is the battery 100% certain excellent i.e. new? You do not want to be hunting faults that aren't real.

But before you clear the codes, read LTFT each bank, engine hot & parked, at idle & 2500rpm. That'll show if you have an air leak or some other trouble.

 

Thanks!

Battery is a brand spanker, all terminals cleaned, so we can discount that. No water, or signs of water ingress, in wheelwell.

Previous owner claimed the valley pipe had been changed. But they also 'claimed' some other stuff - no point going into it here I suppose(!) I've read of the pipe between EGR and manifold getting gunked - is this a likely culprit, would it throw the EGR code, and if so can I inspect this without the full stripdown?

Don't know if the codes have come back same order, waiting on the further loan of a code reader so will post asap.

Should also mention she's got an Prins LPG conversion, and has had for quite some miles. I am doing all diagnostics running on petrol only to eliminate more uncontrolled variables. Quick, buy shares in BP...

 

Yes be sure and check the hose under the SC because to change the EGR does require removing the SC. That will cost you at least $300-$400 in gaskets alone. So only do it once and do it right. The hose is about $20 so I would get one anyway. It's too cheap not too.

No reports of the tube gunking up but several people have replaced them because of holes in the tube. So If I was taking off the SC I would change the EGR valve and EGR tube as well. With where it's at it will be impossible to inspect it in any detail so you will need to decide if you want to replace it or not.

How many miles on the car? Have the plugs been changed?

I am concerned about the last two codes? They are not common and I sure hope they don't come back because I think you will need a dealer to trace those down.

You might want to change the thermostat and coolant first to see if that will fix the overheating. Any idea if the DCCV has been changed? It most likely will fail at sometime.

Do you have a source for discounted factory parts? You will need it! Here in the US we have a forum sponsor that treats us pretty well. 15% off list and free shipping for anything over $25 plus no sales tax.
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Long term fuel trims (Thats what LTFT means, right?) showing +18 and +20 at idle. Didnt get a 2500rpm reading cos I'm a muppet and am unfortunately now unable to.

 

....whoops, didn't mean to hit post then.


This still suggests an air leak to me, and ECU subsequently going batty because it doesn't know how much air is in there? I'm not sure how this could lead to the overheating issue though, unless I'm chasing 2 separate faults (it was 10 faults a week ago so I'm doing OK :-) )

 

First, change the thermostat, and the water pump. Actually you can do just the thermostat, but You're 3/4 of the way to the water pump, and you have the cooling system drained.

Bleed it properly, and then lets see the temp it runs at. Forget all the codes and stuff until we get the car running at the proper 195-210 deg f.

Take care,

George

 

LTFTs are definitely quite high, you most likely have a post MAFS vacuum leak or very low fuel pressure.

 

Yeah that's what I figured too. I've got thermostat and water pump on order and will report back in a few days after the surgery and with a double check of my hoses.

Watch this space!

 

It's only an air leak if they drop quite a bit at highish revs.

 

Dear Sam,

My first thought: Is your car actually running hot, or simply indicating so? I'm not sure how the sensors are wired, but it's possible one bad sensor is both causing the 109 reading and commanding the fan to run on high at all times. Or, if the system is not properly bled, there may be an air pocket in the vicinity of the sensor(s). If not properly immersed in coolant, the sensor can give a false high reading that doesn't match the actual coolant temp. I've experienced both scenarios on other vehicles. I don't care to discuss how much time and effort I expended on "fixing" non-existing overheating issues. In my defense, I was young and stupid at the time, but I'm older now...

In both cases, an infrared non-contact thermometer saved the day. I was able to read the coolant temperature and determine there was no actual overheat condition, just a false indication problem. These situations were on other brands of vehicles so I can't say for sure it also applies to your Jag, but I think it's worth investigating.

Even if the overheat condition is real, it could very well be you've got two separate issues. The codes and fuel trims might not be related to the temperature problems, but I don't know. Either way I'd suggest a little investigation into the temp problem first as that is more concrete and hopefully easier to troubleshoot.

 

Agreed this would have been smart - alas, too late, I spent the afternoon stripping+draining, so not possible to check now. At the very least I can put these down to preventative maintenance(!). As the car has patchy history, the more bits I know are straight the better.

Next door's dog really likes the taste of this antifreeze.

 

Did note that the antifreeze I drained was relatively clean - no rust or deposits. But it was very, very blue...

 

Hope it wasn't washer fluid. I believe honda and BMW have blue coolant from factory. Possibly the newer Nissans as well use blue

 

Did you know that antifreeze is poisonous to mammals including dogs?

That's why you are not supposed to drain it onto the ground.

 

Nah, not the dogs round here. They're tough 'uns. Don't worry, I caught the rest in an old oil pan to add to my home brew, I find it gives it a bit more kick. Terrible hangovers though, they last for days.





I was, of course, taking the mickey ;-)

 

Blue coolant? Should be orange (or pink/red), for OAT.

 

That's what I believed, what I read in the manual, and what I've purchased for the refill. Lets hope all inaccessible corners of the engine block aren't filled with gunk. I'll give it as good a flush as I can before refilling and see what comes out. Have to say, the fluid that freely drained from the rads was clear and fresh though.

 

And the first set of diagnosis points go to... androulakis.

Thermostat was conked, tested it in boiling water after removal and no movement at all up to 98C. Think it was the original looking at it, 120k miles and 10 years, I'm not surprised it's given up the ghost.

I've flushed the cooling system and done a few bleed cycles, only managed to get 8.5L back in so far, and it seems to be running around 98.5C according to Test mode. I've only read about the three bleed points (expansion tank and each intercooler), not missing one am I?

Strange how being blinded by error codes and RP made me not even think to check the basics, I feel quite embarrassed really. But all's well that ends well... eh?

Now to sort these other error codes...

 

Ok first. To bleed it completely. Put a floor jack on the frame behind the passenger side tire, and raise that side of the car a bit. - No need to get a tire off the ground.

Second. Heat on max temp, and blower on fastest speed. You should have good heat at idle.

That should get any remaining air out of the system.

Third. I know it's going to sound crazy, but clear all the codes. Once you have a fresh palate (all codes cleared), take the car for a long drive. 30 miles or so in mixed conditions. See if any codes come back or it goes back into RP.

Let me know and we will go from there.

Take care,

George