This is the second time this has happened. The first time I took off from a stop there was a huge drag on the car like the brakes were on and it would not shift in to high gear. I pulled over and the rear brakes were smoking. I waited awhile, then restarted and tried again and it was OK. Took it to the dealer and he checked everything and found nothing wrong. He said the parking brake could have engaged and caused the temporary problem. Last night, same thing except when I pulled over and earlier than the first time there was no smoke or burning smell. I restarted and it was still doing the same thing for a few seconds then I floored it and it was OK again.
This is pretty scarey, any advice?

 

You can maybe recalibrate the EPB. That may help. If it still does it after that something is sticking in the EPB system and you would have to figure out what it is. Need more info such as did it do this from the start or were you driving a while then came to a stop then went and suddenly there was drag. If it is doing it from when you just got in and started then its sticking I would investigate the rear calipers. Check the slider pins and make sure they are functioning correctly then check the EBP cables and make sure they are not rusted then work your way to the EBP motor. If it does it after you have been driving for a bit then it sounds like maybe something electrical or something with the traction control or ABS system.

 

Thanks. Both times were after I was driving for awhile. The first time I took off from a light and it did it. Last night I was driving and went around stopped traffic and when I did it did it again. The first time the dealer checked the entire brake system including calipers and found nothing wrong. Since then I have had the brakes, rotors, etc replaced. I did not get any fault codes either time.
How do I reclaibrate the EPB?

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...of-help-59211/

I don't suppose that something could be pushing on the EPB switch in the cabin?

 

Nothing anywhere near the small "handle" behind the shift lever.

 

Try this:--
Every time you park, and it's on the level, disable the parkbrake before you get out. Do this by depressing the little chrome park lever before you remove the key. If you find the prob. gets a little better, something somewhere is jamming, or the switch under the lever is intermittent, loose, maladjusted. Is easy, costs nothing.
FYI, my S-typeD was like this before I bought it two years ago -- very snowy weather. The AA man fixed it pronto, but we couldn't find out what he did, and I wasn't there at the time. It's never been a prob. since. I wouldn't be surprized if he plugged something into the canbus socket and "laptopped it". But always go for the simple/easy/cheap things first.
Leedsman.
P.s. Look if the little red sign lights in dash. when the fault happens.

 

If you didn't apply the EPB (you'd have to lift the paddle) then either the brakes applied by foot brake pedal aren't releasing as they should (caliper/etc fault already mentioned by others) or just possibly the EPB is auto-applying. It shouldn't, but you could have a voltage drop that's triggering it. That could be a failing battery (the EPB is far too sensitive, IMO) or charging issue (which would include alternator and wiring etc).

How old is the battery?

 

Thanks to all for the responses. The battery is original, 5 yrs old. The first time this happened when the dealer checked everything he mentioned a drop in voltage could cause the EPB to apply. He said in addition to checking the brake system they checked the battery and charging system and everything was good.

 

P.s. Look if the little red sign lights in dash. when the fault happens.

The red light does not come on and there are no fault codes.

 

Frankly many dealers are hopeless at electronics (as are AutoZone etc) and do not know how to test a battery in that context. They can just about manage cranking amps - but not computers. There are dozens of threads of weird things all fixed by changing the battery.

 

If it's related to voltage, don't expect codes.

Also, how do you know no codes? What tool was used to check? If not a jag-dealer tool (& used properly) only one module will have been checked and not the one for the EPB or traction control/brakes.

 

The first time this happened the dealer said a low voltage code was present. They checked the brake systems and the battery/charging systems and found nothing wrong. They cleared the code and said it would only take a momentary drop for the EPB to react the way it did. This most recent, three days ago what I meant by no codes is that there was no "error" message or dashboard fault lights. I have not had a chance to take it back to the dealer. Unfortunately we are on vacation in another state and there is no Jag. dealer.

 

I would seriously consider replacing a 5 year old battery. Call it cheap insurance.
Since one dealer already stated a low voltage condition, time to repalce before other gremlins popup....and they will...

 

So true! It's why I was asking

 

Does this car take any kind of special battery?

 

They're meant to be vented and I think that means lead-acid. The alternator charges at a higher voltage when commanded by the PCM and otherwise a more normal one. Oh, and plenty of cranking amps
But otherwise, no. Whatever fits and is good. I have the size as LxWxH 353x175x190mm but do check

 

Put in a new battery, hopefully that will prevent the problem from happening again. This is probably a very dumb question but could the new battery somehow affect gas mileage? Since putting it in the mileage has improved tremendously.

 

Disconnecting it will have forced fuelling relearn so I suppose the existing one wasn't right but I can't quite get my head round why!!

Maybe as the volts previously sagged some sensor or actuator didn't allow accurate fuelling.

 

what sort of average MPG are you getting now?

My 06 R averages about 18.8mpg with mostly highway driving.
Well actually, it will reach the mid 19's per gallon, but I've been heavy on the right pedal a bit since this is a new car to me and I love those 400 horses under my foot.

 

My mileage had been dropping for several months. On the trip where the brake locked up I was getting 17.3 city and about 17.8 highway. That trip was about 2/3 hiway and 1/3 city. I was also getting a large amount of carbon dust show up in the exhaust tips. After having the new battery put in I went on exactly the same trip, same route and averaged 25.4 overall. Today I cleaned the car and the exhaust tips inside and had to take the same drive. At the end the average was 25.2 and the exhaust tips were completely shiny. I have no explanation but I hope it stays this way. The battery will be paid for in no time. If anyone has any ideas why/how this could be I would be very happy to hear them.