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Hello Guys,
I am the 2nd owner of a beautiful 2003 Jag s type 4.0. I bought the car from a used car dealer that purchases from auction and I don't have service records. The car has near 110k miles on it and I want to keep it on the road for years to come. One problem I have is the first 20 min after start up the rpm..spike up and down at idle then goes away after the engine warms up. Is this coils? Or is a timing chain more likely an issue? I replaced plugs...all fluids ..thermostate and housing...ac condenser. Any suggestions for a jag at this mileage?
I appreciate any help.
2003 S type 4.0
That sounds like a sensor to me. Do you have a code reader? You can purchase an inexpensive Elm 327 online for next to nothing.
BTW, I'm not sure when they started using metal cam chain tensioners, but the plastic ones should be changed around 100K miles (ask me how I know) -
Your right I checked the vin it's a 4.2. No I don't have a code reader but I should get one. Any budget friendly suggestions appreciated. I definatly rather spend some money now to save the engine. I do have 110k miles
Welcome Shane and congrats on your very nice looking car . . . not only the 4.2L V8 but the superb ZF 6HP26 trans . . . great combination. OK, tools?
Second priority, ELM327, you have ordered. Cheap as chips and terrific value as your "go to" diagnostic tool;
Third priority, Smart Charger or Battery Tender, as per "Battery 101" listed in my sig. Check the write up for why absolute top notch battery performance is a critical issue on these cars;
First priority, aha, will cost you nothing more than time and patience. Download all the resources like JTIS, TSBs, wiring diagrams both here on Stickys and Gus' JagRepair.com, although some really well heeled members lash out a few hard earned pounds, drachmas, euros, or in my case AU$9.95 (2 coffees) to have all the 1,000s of pages on a handy CD.
Usually you can hear timing chain (called chain slap) at startup if it is stretched. You can also look for signs of chain slap on various surfaces around chain passage. Not sure on your engine, but generally you can see it with just valve cover off. Typically, replacing chain and guides is a very expensive job, so make sure you need it first. Also, I'd first replace chain tensiometer to see if this addresses chain slack.
To summarize - it is probably not chain, if it is chain you should make sure tensiometer working, if you end up needing a new chain make sure to also look at the chain guides, as broken guide can cause perfectly good chain to jump.
Thanks Ken and sinf!
I have already been digging through the repair site..Thanks for that tip Ken. I don't hear a chain slap so hopefully isn't my timing belt Sinf. I just have RPM spike 1k-3k while it's cold. The elm I ordered should be in soon to help with more info. Maybe it's just a vacume leak or something minor. I want to keep my jag on the road and going to retire my current daily soon and let the Jag become my new daily if I can sort out the issues.
@Mikey I had some high-mileage BMW with original chain, but all of them were in-line I6. Chain passage is much simpler that way. With V8 engines chain is just a lot more finicky to last lifetime of the engine. Plus, S types are now old enough to start experiencing tensiometer failures.
I don't think chain slack is OP's problem, but you shouldn't outright dismiss it as a possible problem.