2000 4.0 (DIY) replacement –Timing chains, Tensioners, Water pump, etc, etc. FAQ
Ok team, I’m sorry for the delay on posting up the wrap up to this thread, I got a little busy with life stuff.. I couldn’t agree with you gents more.. A few more miles and my thread would have been about (how to) pull your motor.. LOL.. I really couldn’t have asked for any more miles out of the stock stuff. For the record it was 147,219 miles..
Anyway back to the project..
AC compressor installed

Generator bracket installed


New gaskets going on the valve covers

I had to get a new generator.. I can kiss another $165.00 away here

Time marches on with the completion of all pulleys, yeah..

Installing a new drive belt


Installing the final water connections and some of the plastic is going back on

There we go… everything is back on, everything is installed per specs and ready for start up..

She purrs like new born kitten and I have no leaks… So I’m assuming that I did everything alright.. LOL.. don't get me wrong, she smoked pretty bad at first.. Hahaha.. But once all the coolant and oil burned off she fine.. J
Ok COOL.. Well team that’s another first for me.. But before I can head out for test drive, I wanted to change all of the fluids, just incase
so here’s what I got for her.
I flushed the following systems
Radiator



Power steering



Oil



Here’s a project breakdown, just incase your curious..
Timing chain set $748
Water pump $93
Thermostat $48
Generator $175
Special jag timing tools $325
Jag crank pulley, puller $125
Drive belt $45
Misc fluids and stuff $90
Total DIY cost $1,649 (ouch!!) total dealer cost / as quoted = $6,500 or a local shop @ $2500-3500.
Total time spent on the project = 32 hrs (wow) that was slow, I’m sure a qualified shop could have knocked it out in about 16 hrs.. But it was a GREAT learning experience for me and I tell you truth, I am no longer afraid or intimidated by this car.. So to me it was kind of worth it in the long run..
Anyway….
Thank you all for your time team in viewing this thread.. I hope this information help’s at least one other person out there.
Have a great one everybody
TDC.
Radiator



Power steering



Oil



Here’s a project breakdown, just incase your curious..
Timing chain set $748
Water pump $93
Thermostat $48
Generator $175
Special jag timing tools $325
Jag crank pulley, puller $125
Drive belt $45
Misc fluids and stuff $90
Total DIY cost $1,649 (ouch!!) total dealer cost / as quoted = $6,500 or a local shop @ $2500-3500.
Total time spent on the project = 32 hrs (wow) that was slow, I’m sure a qualified shop could have knocked it out in about 16 hrs.. But it was a GREAT learning experience for me and I tell you truth, I am no longer afraid or intimidated by this car.. So to me it was kind of worth it in the long run..
Anyway….
Thank you all for your time team in viewing this thread.. I hope this information help’s at least one other person out there.
Have a great one everybody
TDC.
Last edited by tdc; Nov 24, 2010 at 08:17 PM.
Nice going tdc, good post, nice write up, great pics, keep at it.
My only worry is for the future, if the last pic in this thread is 'Here are all the bits I had left over' LOL
Any amateur who says it has never happened to them is well----.
@jagv8, we as mods can't upgrade membership privileges, but @ tdc I notice that you have posted a New Member intro so you are in with a chance of a manual uplift.
tdc, keep your chin up, and please keep updating your progress in this thread.
My only worry is for the future, if the last pic in this thread is 'Here are all the bits I had left over' LOL
Any amateur who says it has never happened to them is well----.
@jagv8, we as mods can't upgrade membership privileges, but @ tdc I notice that you have posted a New Member intro so you are in with a chance of a manual uplift.
tdc, keep your chin up, and please keep updating your progress in this thread.

Thank you team.. Thank you all very much for the extremely kind words.. They are all much appreciated..
I never attempted anything like this, well at this magnitude at least and I really had no idea how it would all turn out. But after a lot of research (a lot of research) and acquiring the proper tools, I was able to actually pull it off.. Yea me.. LOL..
The car does run great.. I really forget how quite she is.. But do I have to admit something I was trying to figure out on my own, but I…. I just cant, so it’s time to come clean..
Ahhh my heater doesn’t work anymore?? Nothing, noda.. I don't know why? Does anyone know if I need to reset something, bleed anything?
I just don't get it team… My duel Heating and AC worked GREAT before, where did I go wrong?
Was I supposed to bleed something?
Do / can I reset something?
I’m really thinking (well hopping) that its something stupid.
. So any words of wisdom from the team is deeply appreciated..
Thanks guys..
TDC..
I never attempted anything like this, well at this magnitude at least and I really had no idea how it would all turn out. But after a lot of research (a lot of research) and acquiring the proper tools, I was able to actually pull it off.. Yea me.. LOL..
The car does run great.. I really forget how quite she is.. But do I have to admit something I was trying to figure out on my own, but I…. I just cant, so it’s time to come clean..
Ahhh my heater doesn’t work anymore?? Nothing, noda.. I don't know why? Does anyone know if I need to reset something, bleed anything?
I just don't get it team… My duel Heating and AC worked GREAT before, where did I go wrong?
Was I supposed to bleed something?
Do / can I reset something?
I’m really thinking (well hopping) that its something stupid.
Thanks guys..
TDC..
Is engine cooling OK (main radiator gets warm, top & bottom hoses likewise, no over-temperature etc)? If they're OK then you may have an air lock (Search on the word bleed may find you others who've had that) or it's part of the control system: one of the sensors or that DCCV or the computer part (I'm not so familiar with it on the early cars). Various ways to test the DCCV were posted, plenty are on here (how to measure ohms, current etc and expected values - about 12 ohms each solenoid and thus about 1 amp), on Gus's site http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepair.htm and here http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/
Needing bleeding would be my guess. Emphasis on guess.
Electrical diagrams here http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co..._Reference.htm
Needing bleeding would be my guess. Emphasis on guess.
Electrical diagrams here http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co..._Reference.htm
Last edited by JagV8; Nov 29, 2010 at 02:32 AM.
Most likely air in the system from all the work you have done. Do you know where the heater bleed hose is?? It's up by your power brake booster and master cylinder. It's a rubber hose with a plastic valve in the end. When the car is running you open this valve and let a small amount of fluid come out. It might take several try's for this to get all the air out. Have you been checking your top degas bottle and adding fluid?? I have found that just temperature cycling the car will bleed most if not all the air out but some people have had a hard time with this.
I would not attack the DCCV yet because it started after your engine work.
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I would not attack the DCCV yet because it started after your engine work.
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Thanks for all the effort you put into the write up and pictures. This will not only be helpfut to a DIY but to an Indy shop guy. A lot of Indy guys are reluctant to take on this due to a lack of info in their normal channels. But this will help I'm sure.
EZDriver
EZDriver












