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2000 4.0 (DIY) replacement –Timing chains, Tensioners, Water pump, etc, etc. FAQ

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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 10:36 AM
  #41  
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Great write up and pictures.
From the look of those old tensioners you are doing this just in time.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 08:06 PM
  #42  
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Ok team, I’m sorry for the delay on posting up the wrap up to this thread, I got a little busy with life stuff.. I couldn’t agree with you gents more.. A few more miles and my thread would have been about (how to) pull your motor.. LOL.. I really couldn’t have asked for any more miles out of the stock stuff. For the record it was 147,219 miles..

Anyway back to the project..


AC compressor installed

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Generator bracket installed

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New gaskets going on the valve covers

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I had to get a new generator.. I can kiss another $165.00 away here


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Time marches on with the completion of all pulleys, yeah..


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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 08:07 PM
  #43  
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Installing a new drive belt


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Installing the final water connections and some of the plastic is going back on


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There we go… everything is back on, everything is installed per specs and ready for start up..

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She purrs like new born kitten and I have no leaks… So I’m assuming that I did everything alright.. LOL.. don't get me wrong, she smoked pretty bad at first.. Hahaha.. But once all the coolant and oil burned off she fine.. J

Ok COOL.. Well team that’s another first for me.. But before I can head out for test drive, I wanted to change all of the fluids, just incase so here’s what I got for her.


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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 08:08 PM
  #44  
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I flushed the following systems

Radiator

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Power steering

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Oil

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Here’s a project breakdown, just incase your curious..

Timing chain set $748
Water pump $93
Thermostat $48
Generator $175
Special jag timing tools $325
Jag crank pulley, puller $125
Drive belt $45
Misc fluids and stuff $90

Total DIY cost $1,649 (ouch!!) total dealer cost / as quoted = $6,500 or a local shop @ $2500-3500.

Total time spent on the project = 32 hrs (wow) that was slow, I’m sure a qualified shop could have knocked it out in about 16 hrs.. But it was a GREAT learning experience for me and I tell you truth, I am no longer afraid or intimidated by this car.. So to me it was kind of worth it in the long run..

Anyway….

Thank you all for your time team in viewing this thread.. I hope this information help’s at least one other person out there.

Have a great one everybody

TDC.
 

Last edited by tdc; Nov 24, 2010 at 08:17 PM.
Old Nov 25, 2010 | 02:03 AM
  #45  
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F A N T A S T I C ! ! !

I hope with 147,219 miles that you got it cheap.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 03:37 AM
  #46  
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Great thread, super pictorial write up, and certainly worthy of FAQ entry. (done) LOL
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 04:06 AM
  #47  
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Thanks given
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 05:30 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Translator
Nice going tdc, good post, nice write up, great pics, keep at it.

My only worry is for the future, if the last pic in this thread is 'Here are all the bits I had left over' LOL

Any amateur who says it has never happened to them is well----.

@jagv8, we as mods can't upgrade membership privileges, but @ tdc I notice that you have posted a New Member intro so you are in with a chance of a manual uplift.

tdc, keep your chin up, and please keep updating your progress in this thread.
For 2/3 years long ago I earned my living on the spanners (wrenches), I once stripped an under slung bus engine to do the timing gears. When I'd nailed it all back together I had two small spacer bolts left. Not to worry, press the starter and pray. It ran sweet as a nut and kept running for a long time afterwards.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #49  
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This was a great thread and a great write up on everything. I enjoyed looking at your progress!

Its good to see someone back to wrenching on their cars!!
 
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Old Nov 26, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #50  
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A hardy congrats - great job, and I hope you have many trouble-free miles ahead of you now....
 
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Old Nov 28, 2010 | 11:41 PM
  #51  
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Thank you team.. Thank you all very much for the extremely kind words.. They are all much appreciated..

I never attempted anything like this, well at this magnitude at least and I really had no idea how it would all turn out. But after a lot of research (a lot of research) and acquiring the proper tools, I was able to actually pull it off.. Yea me.. LOL..

The car does run great.. I really forget how quite she is.. But do I have to admit something I was trying to figure out on my own, but I…. I just cant, so it’s time to come clean..



Ahhh my heater doesn’t work anymore?? Nothing, noda.. I don't know why? Does anyone know if I need to reset something, bleed anything?

I just don't get it team… My duel Heating and AC worked GREAT before, where did I go wrong?

Was I supposed to bleed something?
Do / can I reset something?

I’m really thinking (well hopping) that its something stupid.. So any words of wisdom from the team is deeply appreciated..

Thanks guys..

TDC..
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 01:48 AM
  #52  
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Is it the blower fan that doesnt work, or is it just not blowing warm air?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 02:29 AM
  #53  
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Is engine cooling OK (main radiator gets warm, top & bottom hoses likewise, no over-temperature etc)? If they're OK then you may have an air lock (Search on the word bleed may find you others who've had that) or it's part of the control system: one of the sensors or that DCCV or the computer part (I'm not so familiar with it on the early cars). Various ways to test the DCCV were posted, plenty are on here (how to measure ohms, current etc and expected values - about 12 ohms each solenoid and thus about 1 amp), on Gus's site http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepair.htm and here http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/

Needing bleeding would be my guess. Emphasis on guess.

Electrical diagrams here http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co..._Reference.htm
 

Last edited by JagV8; Nov 29, 2010 at 02:32 AM.
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Old Nov 29, 2010 | 07:05 PM
  #54  
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Most likely air in the system from all the work you have done. Do you know where the heater bleed hose is?? It's up by your power brake booster and master cylinder. It's a rubber hose with a plastic valve in the end. When the car is running you open this valve and let a small amount of fluid come out. It might take several try's for this to get all the air out. Have you been checking your top degas bottle and adding fluid?? I have found that just temperature cycling the car will bleed most if not all the air out but some people have had a hard time with this.

I would not attack the DCCV yet because it started after your engine work.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #55  
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Thanks for the great write up.

It really helps.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2012 | 09:32 AM
  #56  
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Thanks for all the effort you put into the write up and pictures. This will not only be helpfut to a DIY but to an Indy shop guy. A lot of Indy guys are reluctant to take on this due to a lack of info in their normal channels. But this will help I'm sure.

EZDriver
 
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 08:32 PM
  #57  
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YOUR A GOD...lol, Seriously Great write up and very clear pictures and instructions, you may have missed your calling to be some type of teacher lol. Wonderful wonderful job
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 09:30 AM
  #58  
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Good day!Can you please post foto where you're installing crankshaft setting tool,with flywheel mark!
 
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Old Mar 1, 2012 | 10:58 AM
  #59  
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Be prepared to wait a few weeks or months, possibly longer....
 
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 09:02 PM
  #60  
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Wow, what a great write up!
 
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