just checked the fuses and the relays and all are good. I’m stuck and don’t know what to do from here. I’ve checked everything I know to check.

 

everything looks good, at this point I’m thinking the PCM is bad.

 

I checked everything fuse and relay wise and all is good.

 

I checked all of those fuses and that relay and all is good. I’m thinking the PCM is bad at this point. I’ve checked everything I know to check.

 

I doubt it.
It will be pulled down for a very short time. Multimeter could easily not see it.

 

Are there any other symptoms of the PCM being faulty? anything i should look out for?

 

That's a separate issue from the no-start condition. For a flickering or dead odometer/message display, please see this thread:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ype-faq-45129/

 

Perhaps there is a problem with your test method.

My first thought is what are you using for grounding the spark plugs? Not sure about the V8, but the early V6 has composite valve covers, although they look like metal. Even if the V8 covers are metal, they sit on rubber gaskets and may not be grounded.

Another test you can try: Remove the duct between the air cleaner and throttle body. Spray a shot of starting fluid into the throttle body. Don't overdo it, a couple of seconds is plenty. All you're doing is supplying an alternate fuel source to test the ignition. Hit the starter and see if there is any response. If so, the ignition is fine and you've got a fuel delivery problem.

I see you keep thinking the PCM is bad. In my over-inflated opinion, that should be WAY down on the list of potential suspects. If indeed you're getting no spark, I'm thinking the root cause is a bad input to the PCM, and not the module itself.

 

It may be time to step back and take a deep breath. When troubleshooting results aren't making any sense, it's a good time to reevaluate your methods. As others have explained, you're not going to see the switched ground signal using a regular multimeter. In addition, I wonder about the method used to test for a lack of spark. You could be unknowingly steering yourself down the wrong path.

I would highly recommend physically checking the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge. Not sure about the V8, but the early V6 has a test port near the oil fill cap. Don't just "test" it with your thumb unless it has been freshly calibrated. Put a mechanical gauge on there to be sure.

If you find low or no pressure, there is a very high chance the pump has failed from inactivity. Now I didn't say just jump in there and replace the pump, but definitely test it first.

One possibility for no fuel pressure is a bad CKP sensor, as previously suggested. IIRC, not only can a bad CKP inhibit the fuel pump, but it can also inhibit the ignition under certain conditions. Please don't quote me on that, as this may not be applicable to all models. I'd have to dig through my notes, but if the CKP sensor has failed, the PCM doesn't know when to fire the plugs. The backup is the computer switches over to the camshaft sensors after 5 seconds of cranking the starter. That is a LONG time to crank the starter, and I don't recommend doing it repeatedly. But it's certainly worth trying once or twice.

Now you may also be facing a double whammy if there's no fuel. The 5 second trick may get ignition back, but nothing will happen if still no fuel. Hence my suggestion/pleading/exhortation/threats that you should physically check fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge, no matter what you think the root cause may be.

 

I have tried the starting fluid method but to no avail. I’ve checked voltages, resistance and just about everything you can think of.

if there was something keeping the PCM from pulling the coils to ground, then what would it be? I have checked the anti-theft system, the battery, replaced the CKP sensor and still nothing. The car still has no spark, even after 2 days of diagnostic testing.

 

the only code I have is a P1000 code

 

That is perfectly normal to have just that code and no others, even with a still unidentified fault obviously present. P1000 simply means the OBD monitors have not completed their normal cycles. There's no way they will if the engine won't run. Once the monitors are happy, that code will switch to P1111. It's either/or. There's always one but never both.

Now you didn't ask yet, but if the engine won't run, why isn't a related code being flagged? Welcome to the world of OBD. The OBD system is designed primarily for monitoring and reporting faults related to emissions. If you have a fault preventing the engine from starting, in the OBD mindset, that's not related to emissions. Even if the computer knows why the engine won't start (a required input is missing or invalid, for example), it won't tell you via the normal OBD interface. It's kinda like getting in the wrong line at the DMV office. Even though the lady behind the counter can access the entire computer system from any terminal, you wanted a new driver's license but are in the line for renewing vehicle registration. She crosses her arms and isn't going to offer the information you need. Dealer level software can probably tell you, but we mere mortals don't have that kind of access.

 

I can't agree with that statement. There's no way you could have checked everything I can think of. Heck, I've just barely started thinking of things to check.

Two quick things to check:

How are you measuring voltage at the coils? With the connector unplugged? If so, the circuit is unloaded, which can give a misleading indication of adequate power. Can you reinstall the connector and back probe it? That way the circuit is under load. Engage the starter and tell us what voltage you are seeing like that.

A capacitor is installed on each cylinder bank to reduce radio interference. Capacitors are a high failure item with age. If shorted out, even partially, they could be reducing power reaching the coils. Try unplugging both capacitors and see if that makes any difference.

 

as far as checking everything you are right I haven’t but this is my first jaguar so I’m completely new to the platform.

i was testing the coils unloaded with just the ignition on and I was seeing 12.87 volts. I will try to do it loaded in the morning and see what I can find out.

i did think about the capacitors but from what i was reading they don’t cause a no spark issue but i will do as you stated and see if it makes a difference. I’m willing to do anything at this point to see if i can get spark.

i will also say i took all 8 coils out and measured the resistance and i was reading 1.2 - 1.8 ohms on each coil. The service manual states between 0.50 - 1.00 ohms is good. Are these coils bad or is that normal.

 

Hmm, was the meter zeroed out? Even if it was, that doesn’t seem like a huge difference. It seems nearly impossible to have 8 bad coils. That’s about the same probability as Rosie O’Donnell getting an Elon Musk tattoo.

Just thinking out loud. What if the car wouldn’t start for the previous owner, for reasons still undetermined. He installed a set of crap aftermarket coils, to no avail. Never occurred to him the new coils were junk because nothing changed. The car then sat for years, and the fuel pump seized up as they are known to do.

If any of this scenario seems remotely possible, you might have three problems. The original unknown fault, 8 Fling Dung brand coils, and a bad fuel pump.

I'm not saying rush out and replace all those parts. Just troubleshoot from the beginning and assume nothing.

Any brand markings visible on the coils? Unless OEM or quality aftermarket, it might be worth getting one quality replacement and repeat your spark test on it.

 

Could be something to do with the security/immobilization system.

 

From the previous owner all I was told was they couldn’t get any spark and it has been sitting since 2013. My next plan was to actually get one new coil from Jaguar as you stated and see if that gets me spark.

Come to think about it he did tell me that it has been to one repair shop and they couldn’t figure it out. I actually found out today from my own digging that the car has no fuel pump in the car and I was not told about it. But that still wouldn’t cause a no spark issue. It would just cause a no fuel issue but I used a small bit of starting fluid and got no cough, burp, fart, nothing.

 

do you have rpm display on your scan tool when cranking and are the injectors getting pulsed. if cranking rpm is displayed as 0 the crank sensor is busted

 

No the RPMs do not move while cranking.

 

check with a scanner i don’t think x200s have a tach that moves at cranking rpm