I understand the sub 2004 cars had more issues but what are some main things I should be looking for in this year? The miles are pretty low for the year, the car is at a Lexus dealer here in Colorado. Being that it's at a dealer, should I have a mechanic look it over still? Would a dealer not do that already? This will be my first dealer experience if igo though with this one. Any pointers are greatly appreciated.

 

I bought a 2001 3.0 with 67000 miles on it when I bought it. I realized I was going to have some issues. This forum and its members are very helpful. The problems I have had in the short time I have owned it 1. The factory wheel lugs; The lugs break and they need to be replaced (replace them before they break) I had three break off when I was replacing my break pads. I had to get a garage to remove them. That sounds crazy but check this forum its a problem. 2. Recently my A/C quit working. Pulley drive bearing locked up frying the clutch coil and when checking this out I felt my compressor and the bearings felt rough ( this does not seem to be a common problem); But the DCCV (heater valve) seems to be I haven't had any problems with it yet, but there is a lot of talk on this forum about it. and 3. Coolant hoses. I have had 2 hose connections breakoff. It happens at the black plastic molding where the hoses attatch to the molding one was on the upper radiator hose ($80.00) where the coolant bleed valve is and the other was a tee junction replaced with a different tee ($4.00).

I wouldn't have bought this car if it was going to be my only source of transportation. I love this car but it is like any other used car will have to work on it. The good thing is that a lot of parts can be crossed over to the Lincoln LS.

I hope this helps you with your decision.

 

Does the 2000 "S" have service records? If not, my advice would be to search for a newer model (2004- on). There are both 3.0 (235 hp) and 4.2 litre (310 hp) "S"'s out there that are affordable, gorgeous, and deliver decent mpg's.

 

The car has been serviced at a local dealer here in Colorado so it has all the records in carfax and looks to have been serviced regularly by the same dealer which I like. There's actually not a single 2004+ S-Type's for sale for hundreds of miles here, at least not that I've found.

Im mechanically inclined although I'm not to fond of working on cars, but I can. I did everything on my accord besides my clutch and flywheel. The accord will be staying around as my daily driver and the jag will be more of a weekend and going out car. I'm sure I'll drive it more when I first get it but that will fade and my commute to work is around three miles anyway so the miles won't be piled on.

I read the DIY for the valve block rebuild and that looks like fun ha! but nothing I can't handle. As far as the lugs is it the wheel studs or the lug nuts? Lug nuts are cake and I'd do that right off if that's the case. Does the 2000 cars suffer from the "limp mode"? That looks like a nightmare.

I know this will be an investment and I'll have to have cash on the side for it, but in prepared. Anything else I should know?

 

Go for it if it's your gut instinct. It's the lug nuts not studs that are sub par. The factory two piece lug nuts should be replaced with solid chrome pieces. Check the forum search feature for plenty of contiguous threads on this subject.

 

I've owned my 2000 3L S-Type for 11 years and have found it to be very reliable. The only out of the ordinary issues for me haver been window regulator breakages ( 4 ) and the coolant overflow bottle cracking. I did replace my fuel pump last week but thats only to be expected after 11 years and 90K miles. Other than that its just been regular maintenance: oil changes, brake pad replacement, sparkplug change and ATF change.I do all my own maintenance and have found the modern Jaguar with Ford architecture to be well-designed, efficient and quite robust unlike my previous older Jaguar ( 1986 Series III XJ6 4.2 L ) .
From my perspective, you hear a lot of complaining from people who are not mechanically inclined and are then shocked at the expense of repairing abused and poorly maintained cars. All cars need good care and any part can failure. Check the car out thoroughly as you would any other used car.
good luck and best wishes VMV

 

Cool. So far it replace the lug nuts, replace the DCCV BEFORE it fails and mind as well do the associated hoses, valve body rebuild on the tranny.

Now you're a vet bfsgross so any knowledge you can bestow upon me will be greatly appreciated. I do the same on the Accord fourm I'm on as I'm one of the OG members and try to help where ever I can. I know I'm not gonna be in for a trouble free ownership but I like to nip things in the butt before they happen if I can.

 

Thanks a lot! I plan to care for this car well and it looks like its been cared for well before me also.

 

You're welcome and welcome to Jaguar Forums. I love my S and I hope you enjoy a similar experience. Jaguars have always been special to me with their unique combination of style, performance and history. The Ford stewardship of Jaguar has brought the marque state-of- the-art mechanical componets increasing reliability and reducing maintenance costs.
best wishes , VMV

 

Check service records for the usual preventative maintenance measures. If you don't see: Vacate and refill the trans., rear differential, brake booster and lines, replacement of brake pads, belts and hoses, plugs and wires, and fuel and air filter, etc.; then do these now rather than wait for failure. Check this forum search feature for those with 3.0's who discussed vaccume lines, trans., etc. known for failure due to poor engineering, etc. Jaguars have neat creature comfort features and a superior ride quality, and of course have its own unique exterior and interior styling cues. If your heart is set on this 2000 3.0 "S", and you're certain she's in decent running shape, then take her home and enjoy.

 

This one's a 4.0. Anything special about these I should know?

 

The 4.0 has a few issues:

1. some were Nikasil (liners, I think) which was used in quite a few engines back then but turned out to not like sulphur (sulfur) in fuel (there's a blow-by test to check if it's OK - do it! - and fuel no longer has the sulphur)

2. The tensioners tended to fail earlier than you'd want so need replacing (and do the guides etc while in there)

3. They can suffer "bore wash" (fuel washing oil off and causing low compression thus no-start) but don't obsess about this one

4. The early water pump is prone to age and become brittle (swap it!)

 

As jagv8 point out; the early 4.0's had engine cylinder liner issues. Do this simple and logical test on the 2000 "S" 4.0: With the engine "dead cold"; have a friend start her up while you stand in the rear to view exhaust outlets for smoke. Have friend drive her around for a period of time with you driving behind him observing for smoke during cruise and hard downshifts. Shut her down then immediately re-start looking for smoke. If no smoke...great. If she smokes...well there are others to choose from unless the dealer agrees to swap in another 4.0. I understand you haven't located a closer "S". Check the online car search sites again.

 

I remember the thing about the Nikasil liners and I thought there was a wey to tell if it was in your motor, something with the VIN. I'll try to find it again.

I saw a DIY on here about the V8 tensioners and it looked decently straight foward just time consuming. I'm sure I can tackle it.

I'll search for a waterpump DIY but I will say that sounds tougher than the tensioners.

 

Here's some I found in Colorado, funny, I bought our 2000 S-Type in Ft Collins in December, flew up and drove it back to Florida Jan 7.
http://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.cg...&submit=++++go++++