Two questions please.

First, how do I manually operate the VVT solenoid? Do I just connect the two spades with 12 volts, ground one, or what? I want to confirm that it is operating and I understand that I should be able to make it click. I have done the resistance test.

Second, if I remove the valve cover, can I manually move the VVT unit? If so, what would be a good way to do so?

I suspect that my VVT is dead in the water and I would like to try "freeing it up". I plan to remove the solenoid and shoot something down the oil feed to the VVT. What would you use? Brake cleaner, degreaser, penetrating oil?
I would also like to try to manually move the VVT back and forth and then try doing that with the solenoid.

Has anyone gone this route? I think that I am past the usual solutions.


Background
We bought this car a couple years ago at a very good price because of the owner's shock at the estimate to fix the VVT issue (P1388). I replaced the solenoid, took the car to be smog tested and it passed. However, I worry that I didn't fix anything but it passed because the code was pending and the check engine light was not illuminated at the time or the new solenoid failed quickly. The engine light came on again soon after leaving the station and has been on for the last 40K miles. The car runs exceptionally well and as well as our other 3.0 S Type. It is now due to be smog tested again and it will not pass the new OBDII-based process with readiness indicators and all. In the past 40K miles, we have tried engine flushes, heavier and lighter oil, ATF added, using diesel grade oil, etc.

 

The standard answer is to run a flush but you have already done that. Are you sure it wouldn't be easier to just replace the VVT solenoids? Are they very expensive?

What is the total mileage on the car?

How many monitors do have ready now? Most states will allow 1 and sometimes 2 monitors to not be ready and you can still pass.
.
.
.

 

Would like to post the item again. Has anyone manually moved the VVT unit?

 

In response to TBird6, I replaced the solenoid two years ago -- that was the extremely short fix. I plan to replace it again because it is by far easier than the VVT unit and might even fix the problem. However, when I'm doing that, I want to try for a manual fix of the VVT unit by cleaning, lubing, manually moving, etc. I want to at least confirm that it is not frozen or locked in place.
And the solenoid is expensive, around $200 each, but not hard to do and the VVT unit is much more expensive and requires much skilled labor.

 

And the rest he asked?

 

Not sure I follow. I am the original requester and most of his points had no bearing on my questions.

The standard answer is to run a flush but you have already done that.
Are you sure it wouldn't be easier to just replace the VVT solenoids?
Are they very expensive?
I did that before. They are expensive. And there is no assurance that will fix the problem. It didn't fix it or only briefly before.

What is the total mileage on the car?
90K when first appeared. About 140K now. How is that helpful or relevant to my questions?

How many monitors do have ready now? Most states will allow 1 and sometimes 2 monitors to not be ready and you can still pass.
The error trips when the car hits 2K rpms. A clearing produces all readiness indicator blanks of course. Some reset more quickly but the error code will be back before they do. According to the following, the standards may have been tightened. Only the fuel evaporation readiness indicator fail is allowed. I guess I don't think that I can manage to drive enough to turn everything off without passing 2K RPM.
https://www.bar.ca.gov/pdf/Smog_Chec...ence_Guide.pdf

My unanswered continue to be my first two questions:

First, how do I manually operate the VVT solenoid? Do I just connect the two spades with 12 volts, ground one, or what? I want to confirm that it is operating and I understand that I should be able to make it click. I have done the resistance test.

Second, if I remove the valve cover, can I manually move the VVT unit? If so, what would be a good way to do so?

 

Hi,

Sorry, I can't help with the specific questions you asked. I can, however, further muddy the waters by asking more questions myself.

Do you know if the PCM has been reflashed per this service bulletin? Linked courtesy of Gus:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...0%20L%20V6.pdf

Per that service bulletin (S303-09), you could be getting a false indication. If so, the fix could be very simple.

If the code is valid, how about swapping the solenoids with each other? It's rare to have new parts bad from stock, but I've had it happen on several occasions, so don't just automatically rule out that possibility. It wouldn't cost anything but your time to swap solenoids and see if the fault follows.

Hope this helps, even if I didn't answer your questions.

 

As of today, the car has passed CA smog and is good for another two years.

Because I tried multiple things, I am not certain what worked but I suspect that it was the solenoid. It would make a ticking sound when 12V was applied to the two pins and it had the proper resistance. But when I checked the new part, it was not a tick, but a solid clunk. It might sound like a tick when installed because it is a very close fit, bolted down, in the head.

I also used engine degreaser sprayed into the feed hole toward the VVT unit a few times over a day or two and followed that with PB Blaster over the next a few days. It also has had a 5-20 weight oil for the the past few hundred miles.

I did not try very hard to manually move the VVT unit but did hold the cam with a wrench and made the VVT move slightly by pushing down the chain between cams. At least I confirmed that it was not frozen and by this time I was reasonably sure it was the solenoid. A stubby allen wrench, along with a wrench holding the cam, might have worked to move the VVT -- I didn't have one that size.

It is all working correctly now. Also, CA now allows that the Evaporative System readiness indicator can be "not ready." I did my best to follow the instructions for a 2001 S Type to ready that indicator and it didn't happen. Those steps include waiting over 6 hours since last start (not actually on list but suggested by the next step. Idle for 5 minutes. Start should be when ambient is over 40 degrees, etc.) I did the steady drive for 20 minutes but no reset. Of course, it is nearly impossible to drive a perfectly steady speed for 20 minutes.

Apparently the EVAP readiness is a very common problem. So, you do get one not ready but only this one. The other six were set within about 20 minutes of driving around and restarting the car a few times.

I used OBD Auto Doctor and recommend it for readiness indicators and engine trouble codes.

In sum, I think that the solenoid that I installed two years ago quickly failed and maybe was bad from the start. I drove directly to the test station after that repair and maybe even left the car running -- not engine light would have displayed even though I didn't know that then. It doesn't display until the next start up when it is confirmed.

There was probably an oil flow problem two years ago because some other similar codes would appear from time to time. But only 1388 continued. I suspect that the flow problem had something to do with being driven within SF for a few years before we bought it. As mentioned before, we have put over 40K trouble free miles on the car --except for the 1388 code -- and it is now at 140K. Outstanding car now without reservation.