I recently bought a 01 s-type 4.0 , initially the owner had blown the engine and bought a new remaned engine from 123 engine and had some backyard mechanic to install it. He installed it but messed it up somehow now it has no start problem. She had it towed to another shop and they replaced ckp sensor and still no start then they told her it was out of time and would cost more than she wanted to pay.


When I finally got it home all it did was backfire to the point where it popped off the round cap on the intake manifold and had no compression but with a bit of oil in the cylinders I got good compression in all cylinders. Still no start and got a p1586 code. I'm guessing that the engine timing should be right if its been rebuilt ,all timing components are new with the upgraded tensioners.

I have spark and fuel pressure in the rail. I'm wondering if the backfiring could have damaged the TB. How does the throttle work? when I press the pedal down all the way the throttle plate doesn't move. I now its electric so any input will help


thanks

 

One cannot assume anything when considering the work of others on an engine.

If you have already checked all the electrical connections, it may be helpful to remove the cam covers and inspect the valve timing.

If you turn the engine by hand, do not go in an anti-clock direction when viewed from the front of the vehicle.

What is the age and condition of the battery? A failing or weak battery can cause similar conditions.

 

The battery is brand new, I don't trust the other guys work for sure. But I can't see anything he can do that would put it out of time. The engine was a complete long block. I had the valve covers off and everything is new, I'm not sure how to check if its timed right without pulling the front over off.
The next thing im going to try is replacing the plugs I noticed they had 7 ac delco non platinum and one autolite platinum in it.
When the key is on and when the gas pedal is pushed down to the floor should the TB beopening. Or does that ony work when the engine is being cranked.
Looks like all the connections are connected.
One other thing I noticed is when I checked the fuel pressure the gas doesn't look very good its quite brown. I may have to try and drain out the old gas and replace it with fresh gas.

 

Remove the cam covers and rotate the engine by hand to see if the flat areas at the front of the cams line up correctly. There is no need to remove the front timing cover. Refer to the JTIS Workshop Manual for more details.

The throttle is controlled by the PCM not the accelerator pedal.

Do you have fuel pressure to the fuel rail when the engine is being turned by the starter motor?

 

Yes have 40 psi fuel when cranking. I have the cam covers off but I don't have the JTIS workshop manual installed. I do know that inside the cam covers is bone dry on both sides, will oil pump up by just cranking over the engine or does it have to be started to oil properly.

 

Engine oil is supplied to the cam journals and then gets thrown around as the cams rotate.

Near the front of all four cams is a flat area that should all be level with the surface of the cylinder head when the the engine is brought to TDC on the number one cylinder. Should any of the cams be out of time, they must be reset using the proper tools.

Take your time and remember to only rotate the engine in a clock direction when standing in front of the vehicle.

 

Well it appears that the drivers side intake camshaft is off, maybe a tooth or two. Does that mean everything needs to be tore down?

 

Can the intake camshaft that is off be moved back in time without pulling everything apart? I know I need special tools. does the vvt have anything to do with the timing being off on the intake cam? All others are correct except the drivers intake cam.

 

You can use the special tool to lock the crankshaft and then reposition the inlet camshaft being careful to pre-set the VVT. The crankshaft is locked into position by removing the Crankshaft Position Sensor from the bell housing and inserting the special tool. The AJ28 engine uses a different crankshaft locking tool than the other versions of the AJ-V8 engine.

The best way to re-time the inlet camshaft is to remove the bearing caps and reposition the cam. Be certain the other camshafts are correctly timed using the camshaft locking bars.

Trying to accomplish this without the timing tools is difficult at best, but not entirely impossible.

 

I will be getting the timing tool kit. Can inlet cam be moved with primary and secondary chain still installed. Not quite sure what you meant by vvt pre-set.

 

You can move the camshaft when the bearing caps are removed and reposition it on the chain.

Make sure the VVT is functioning correctly and does not have blocked oil passage ways.

See the attachment for an explanation of how the VVT functions.

 

And I would pre oil the top before I put he covers back on if it is dry.

 

So this is my question. I know i need special tools and JTIS to work on this engine but that being said can the inlet camshaft be moved without pulling the front cover? The way I see it I have to remove the front cover and pull the vvt off so I can loosen the allen bolt under the hub to be able to move the cam. Is this the correct assumption? Or is there another way to move the cam?

 

Yes, you must remove the front timing cover to be able to remove the VVT solenoid.

You will need the special tools for holding the crankshaft, camshafts and setting the primary timing chain tensioners.

Here is a photo of Bank2 from my 4.0 litre S-Type for reference.

 

Thanks for the advice.
I retimed everything with all the right tools per the JTIS and now i have a new issue the crank hits something when turning it. I hope its not the valves hitting a piston.
I may have to pull the camshafts and do leakdown test.
Any thoughts?

 

Are you turning the crankshaft by hand with all the spark plugs removed?

 

Yes all plugs are out and turning by hand.

 

If you performed a compression test prior to resetting the valve timing, and compression was within specification, it most likely is not a valve hitting a piston.

Does the crankshaft become difficult to turn at the same position each time around, or only on every other rotation?

 

Yes did compression test and all were low but i added some oil to cylinders and brought most of compression up probably because the engine never fired yet.
did a leak down test on all cylinders and the test was all over the place, i know that the engine needs to be warm but i took that into consideration.
I did take the heads off and found two pistons that had witness marks from valves but looked like they were old marks from maybe another engine or something. it had one new piston in it and one sleeve.
One of the heads has deep scores in the cam journal,cap and the camshaft, after looking at the valves they don't appear to be bent but they are not sealing i can see daylight through the intake valve on one chamber.
Im glad i took it apart so now i can see what im working with . Im gonna take the heads to the machine shop and see what they say and go from there. Glad it wasn't me that purchased this engine for $4000! i would have been really mad.

 

That is a smart idea to take the cylinder heads off and do the work correctly yourself. It sounds like whoever went through the engine did so as quickly and cheaply as possible.

The LH head (Bank2) cannot be removed with the engine in situ.