When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello everyone, First post here but have been busy reading all the great advice on the forum.
Proud owner of a new to me 2002 S-Type. Prior owner noticed some water in the drivers footwell and parked it for over a year before selling it to me. Ordered new weatherstripping which I hope is the only cause of the leak. My main question is about the driver seat. It is stuck all the way forward. I checked the 5 amp fuse in slot 7 and it is intact. None of the motors are working on th driver's seat. What's next?
Water leak is likely one or more clogged sunroof drains, unless you have obvious weatherstrip damage. Even then, I'd still clear the sunroof drains. Several threads here on how to do it.
You'll need to download JTIS and work your way through the electrical guide checking each circuit to determine why the seat won't move. In the interim, you may want to remove it, pull the fore/aft drive cable and run it to a position you can abide until you get it sorted. I can't gain entry to an S-type with the seat full-forward, let alone drive it that way.
Water leak is likely one or more clogged sunroof drains, unless you have obvious weatherstrip damage. Even then, I'd still clear the sunroof drains. Several threads here on how to do it.
You'll need to download JTIS and work your way through the electrical guide checking each circuit to determine why the seat won't move. In the interim, you may want to remove it, pull the fore/aft drive cable and run it to a position you can abide until you get it sorted. I can't gain entry to an S-type with the seat full-forward, let alone drive it that way.
The weatherstripping is scheduled to arrive today and I will install promptly. There is no obvious water damage anywhere except the steering column where there is some rust and even rust-colored water drip stains on the carpet. Once the weatherstripping is installed and leak tested I will pull the seat as you recommended.
Tony, Welcome to the forum! I glossed over the fact you are new in my previous post.
It just occurred to me I may have assumed too much. In the X300, the power seats are actuated by electric motors driving flexible cables that are very similar to speedometer cables from the days of yore. Flexible wound steel with a square end. They pop out of their moorings occasionally and have to be re-set. Easy enough to chuck the square end into a reversible drill and move the seat to where you like, before seating the cable back home in its proper spot. I've assumed the S-Type seat is of a similar configuration, but despite holding title to 3 S-types, have not yet had occasion to manually drive the seats, as I have with the X300's. So I'm not altogether certain they are of similar configuration, but chances are high that they are.
As JagV8 observed, you can acquire the proper JTIS from the stickies at the top of this forum. You may have to perform certain strange and mysterious acts to get it to work with your version of Windows, etc. but I believe there are explanations on the post that allows you to download it. Speaking of which...make sure you make an introductory post in the new members section if you haven't already, then thank folks who welcome you, etc. to boost your post-count above 10 (I'm working from memory) but I believe you need to complete the pre-requisite welcome post, have 10 posts and be promoted to full membership by a moderator before you can access the downloads.
Work backwards from there to figures 01.2 and 01.3. In the trunk, check fuses F15, F18, and F32. At the primary junction box (inside the cabin, outboard of the US passenger's feet), double check F7 that you have previously mentioned.
Thanks for the reply. I actually have a 2004 (having trouble finding the 2004 electrical guide). Sorry, as a junior member I can't edit the post.
No memory functions are working on the seat, mirrors or steering wheel. The passenger seat and sunroof work and other windows except the passenger-side rear window.
Old weatherstripping with multiple tears, holes probably caused or greatly contributed to water soaking the driver's side floor well
Hi JagV8,
I have replaced the driver's side on-body weatherstripping and inspected the sunroof drains and found no apparent issues. Hopefully that fixes the leak issue.
I am new and still can't find the "top of page stickies." I promise in my regualr world I am completely competent, just having trouble navigating the forum's webpage.
Can you help?
Tony
2004 S-Type 4.2 V8
Last edited by Tony K.; Sep 6, 2019 at 01:21 PM.
Reason: Before picture
When you click on the 2004 link, it actually takes you to the 2002.5 guide. That's when some major changes were implemented, and apparently it's still effective for 2004, even though the title page says 2002.5. Don't let that confuse you.
Lots of other good tech info at that page, so be sure to check out the rest of the website.
Did you check those other fuses I suggested? And the one fuse you had mentioned, please confirm it was at the third panel inside the passenger cabin. Many people don't know about that location, and think there's only the panels under the hood and in the trunk (self included for many years).
Thanks for the clarification. Now that I know I have the right manual I will explore the fuses, motors and relays this week. Since the seat is so far forward I will have to remove it. Should I disconnect the battery first?
This is the fourth and final bolt from the driver side front right. Because the seat is so far forward I can't get to the boat. Any thoughts? This is from the passenger side. Because I can slide the seat all the way back I can easily get to this boat but can't do so on the driver side
I'd suggest first spending 5 minutes to check all of the fuses I had previously listed. If a blown fuse was the only problem, you are making WAY too much work for yourself.
If that wasn't the problem, can you access the electrical connectors? There may be a way to jumper power to the seat so you can drive the fore/aft motor electrically. I'd have to research the wiring diagram for the best approach. Don't just blindly try connecting power.
I'm not sure if it would be best to power up the entire seat, or just the fore/aft motor. I guess it all depends if you can even access the motor with the seat still installed.
If you want to go that route, please look at the wiring diagrams and let us know what type of seat is installed. The diagrams showed several options, each on separate pages.
I have the 10-way power seat. The shop I have it at did the work mentioned above but are at a loss for how to proceed now they can't get to the last seat bolt to remove it. I will check those fuses first thing Monday morning. The seat is too low to access much of anything underneath. We were able to manually crank it back but that only bought us a few inches.
If there is a way to jumper power to the seat to drive the fore/aft motor electrically that would be a great solution.
In the mean time the shop has asked me to purchase all 4 motors. Any recommendations?
In the mean time the shop has asked me to purchase all 4 motors. Any recommendations?
Yeah, find another shop. The odds of all four motors failing at the same time? You may as well find Bigfoot, send him to college to train as a mathematician, and then have him calculate the odds. This is enough to make me cry. You don't have four bad motors. I'm willing to stake your reputation on it...
The most likely cause is a loss of power somewhere, such as to one of the control modules. The Driver's Door Module and the Driver's Seat Module both have to receive power for the driver's seat to operate. If not a blown fuse, the fault could be as simple as a broken wire in the harness between the driver's door and the door jamb, where the wires are repeatedly flexed.
To help isolate the potential lack of power, can you please try manually operating the adjustments for the steering column and pedals? There's a small round switch on the left side of the steering column, close to the wheel. You had mentioned the memory functions didn't work for the column. I'm wondering if the manual adjustments work, as that is a different source of power.
Please watch the red LED at the front center of the dashboard, near the base of the windshield. This is the indicator for the security system. Close all doors, and using the remote, please click the lock button twice. All doors should lock and the horn should chirp once. The red LED should flash once every few seconds to show everything is locked and the alarmed system is set. Some of this circuitry goes through the Driver's Door Module, so this could be another clue.
Looking at the wiring diagrams, I'm not sure now if it's possible to jumper power directly to the seat's fore/aft motor. You'd need some access under the seat. You'd have to get to the wires directly between the Driver's Seat Module (under the seat) and the fore/aft motor. I was hoping you could pull the shroud on the side where the switches are, but I don't think that will help. That probably only provides access to the wires that input commands from the switches to the control module. We need to access the output wires from the control module to the motors.
To remove that bolt, take a look under the vehicle. Can you see where the bolt protrudes through the floor pan? Perhaps you could cut a slot in the end with a Dremel cutting wheel, and then unthread it with a small screwdriver. Most likely you couldn't transfer enough torque to break the faster loose, but it may be worth investigating.
The shop is checking the trunk fuses now and replacing F7 in the primary junction box in the US passenger side (it looked good but just in case). Also asked them to check for the LED as you suggested. If I could just manually move the seat back a few more inches I could access the last bolt and take the seat out to get a good look underneath and test each component. We did check the track and can see no obvious obstructions.
The seat is out! Power is going to the control module and motors are working manually! The shop says I need a new $400 control module. I thought I had saw on a previous post that there's a gentleman out in San Diego that rebuilds these modules. Do I need to buy a new module and have that programmed or can I just send this module? Non-working control module
Last edited by Tony K.; Sep 9, 2019 at 04:42 PM.
Reason: error in quote
2002 S Type 4.2 Driver's set stuck forward
