Good info, and thanks for posting your fix.

I wonder if the problem was a loose or corroded fuse socket, and replacing the fuses was just enough to make good contact again.

Or maybe removing the fuses caused a reset of the control module?

i guess it’s all a moot point as everything seems fine now. Just curious, that’s all.

 

I did do a visual check of the tops of these through the clear sight plastic.They are the 4 x 20A cartridge fuses for all the 4 windows for raise/lower.
I hope the fix is that easy in my case as well. I just pulled them all out and checked them across the multi meter and they all conduct fine and with no corrosion etc visible.
But worth a try replacing.
See how we go.

 

Hi jya
I only got this problem of no power to windows after a new battery was installed. The battery warning light came on while driving. I checked and the negative terminal was loose. I then noticed that the battery warning light would flash briefly on then off when ignition was turned on before starting the car. I arrived home and discovered that the driver window was dead and could not be closed. I tried a global close and had the other 3 windows go down as well. No matter what I tried I could not get the windows too close. The next morning I tested the alternator output and even though the ignition light does not remain on when ignition is turned on (before starting) the voltage output is correct. Maybe a faulty diode on the alternator?

 

Hi jya..... The fuses tested ok . I presume the fuse connection might have been the problem. The previous owner traveled on a gravel road daily and this may have caused a bad connection. The gravel roads here in the farming communities are full of potholes.

 

Reviving this thread as I have finally resolved the window issue of the master switch's inability to operate the windows. It had no problem with still controlling all the mirror functions including folding them back. Each of the other three widows still worked on their respective switches.
I did try a second hand replacement master switch with similar part numbers so this must have been from a x202 as well. Despite the wreckers telling me it was a known working part, still nothing.
They just recently acquired a rear damaged x204 (V6 auto, mocha and champagne interior. Mine is sand and charcoal otherwise I would have taken more bits). I took the whole door panel home to fit and check and problem solved. So nice to have the master switch working!
The problem may have been with my original door loom but more than likely I assume it was a worn circuit board on my old master switch.
After I removed the door panel on the x204 I noticed Jaguar must have done away with the drivers door module in the x202's position.

 

Hey all, yesterday I went to my local junkyard in search of better wood trim for my S-Type rather than cheesy looking burl wood. (Only looks cheesy in my car, to my eyes) anyway, as I was removing the window switch yesterday, I encountered this issue where the windows were unfortunately rolled down (as I was working on the car) and couldn’t get them rolled up— just not working. I stumbled on this thread and realized that my sunroof was not working. It made no sense to me that this would occur as prior to removing the door cards, everything was in good shape and running. After checking all fuses/relays were good, getting power to the door module, I was ready to call it quits and go to the shop. But upon re-installation of the door cards, I noticed that the wire bundle connecting my window master switch to the door module had been pulled. (Pin not out, wire stretched, and broken inside of the insulation) after a quick solder job of a new piece of wire, everything worked. Which leads me to believe that my wire bundle was the culprit the entire time. So long story short, I’d check the wire loom and the master switch if this happens to anyone else. If all fuses and relays check good, this should be your next step. If the master switch is disconnected, NONE of the other switches or the sunroof will work — including global open/close.

 

Hey Lance! I got the exact same issue and the french Jaguar shops are very confuse about it. My mechanic already tested all the wire bundle and he is fine. I replace the driver's door controller but it does not work... If anyone found a solution to this problem I will be very grateful.
PS: there's only one guy in France that may have the ICS for pre 2008 jags and I can't go to his garage.