If anyone has ran into this please let me know how to fix. I replaced a coil pac and cleared the code using a scanner. Several months passed (about 5) during which the car was only driven about 60 miles. When I took it for the Texas inspection it failed due to three systems at the "not ready" status. I was told to drive it for 75-100 miles and they should clear. I drove over 200 miles and they didn't clear. I took it to my mechanic who disconnected the battery and followed the procedure required by the computer to clear each system monitor. This cleared one of the three to a "ready" status. The following day when they began working on the car there was now 5 systems reporting "not ready". They tell me everything is working in the car as it is suppose to except the computer seems to be in a "logic loop lock" and is unable to clear its self. I picked up the car and brought it home. Anything I can do?

 

Which monitors are not ready? What codes are you getting?

 

The drive cycle procedure needed to set the monitors is on this site. I would get it and do the drive cycle myself. I just did this on my 2005 STR back in December.

I spent over 2 hours as it is very detailed and remember it has a number of things you need to do that simply won't happen in normal driving. For example one test requires sitting with the car in gear but stopped and the front wheels pointing straight ahead. Then you hold this for 3 minutes.

Another one has a coast down from 60 mph to 40 mph without touching the brakes. It takes a fairly long stretch of road to do that and no traffic because you need to concentrate on the test and NOT the other traffic. I went into the country a good ways before I could lose all the traffic.

Keep at it as they will eventually set IF you car has no problems.
I would take it away from the mechanic at this point. You can do what he does after you educate yourself and print out the drive cycle procedure.
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P1000 and that opens to OBDII all monitors not ready

 

I'll do it tomorrow. I've already picked up the car and will follow your suggestions. The mechanic could find nothing wrong with the car and it runs very well with everything working as it should as far as they and I could tell. Thanks for your help. My inspection runs out one the 1st and I'm starting an out of town job on the 1st as well. When it rains it pours. Thanks for your help.

 

Disconnecting the battery IS THE SAME as clearing the DTCs from the ECM.
This will set the P1000 readiness not completed.

bob

 

If they still don't set, use a tool like an elm327 to check for codes and also for pending codes - but be aware that having cleared things out you can get Catch-22 where a fault is blocking a monitor and in turn that means the car isn't sure what code(s) to flag. (Life then gets tough.)

If you get stuck you may be in need of someone who is really competent with these cars. (Bob, if you're nearish him, or Brutal, ditto)

 

Yes report back as we have had cars that will just NOT set certain monitors. Now another issue? Where I live you can have 1 monitor NOT set and still pass.

Do you know what your area requires?
As posted above it will be useful to scan which ones have set and which ones are not set yet.
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California smog checks allow the evaporative monitor to not set since it takes so long to go good after a repair and clearing of codes. Mine has taken more than 100 miles with multiple cold starts and drive cycles before it will show ready. Think other states allow the exception too, maybe Texas.

On the other hand on many Jaguars the CCM (comprehensive component monitor) will not set if any of the other monitors don't show ready. Poor design by Jaguar as no other car I've serviced has had this anomaly. It negates the California exception since a CCM not ready will fail the car.

 

Funny, I've been trying to reset 3 monitors for a week now after the car had the battery disconnected for a couple days. Very frustrating - no codes, present or pending, 31K mi car in perfect condition. I've done the drive cycle recommended by my Jag mechanic with no success.

 

In case he's a bit hazy about the drive cycle it's in the free downloads on this site.

(Minor niggle: re-set, not reset!)

This PDF may also be relevant

 

Thank you for the PDF, it's a little different than the information I was given by my shop.

(Minor niggle: "reset" is proper usage, at least in the States)

 

When the monitors are reset they are in need of setting and you cannot pass inspections till they set. As they've been set in the past (our cars are not new) they can be said to be re-setting (as in setting again) but it's confusing to the ear to say it since it sounds like reset. I'd avoid re-set and indeed avoid reset since the Catch-22 situation is tough.

The PDF is only part of the drive cycle - the main parts are in the workshop manual.

 

Good news, I ran the procedures for updating the monitors that were at "not ready" yesterday including around 150 miles in Houston, TX city traffic. This afternoon I returned to the testing facility and all 5 had updated to ready. I can only assume that disconnecting the battery on Friday, driving it around 50 miles then following the update procedures and finally driving it for a total of over 200 miles since the reboot gave it the chance to clear everything out. The car runs great and everything seems to be functioning properly. I'll take it tomorrow morning to register it with the Department of Motor Vehicles for another year. On another note when I first took it to be inspected my driver's side low beam headlight was not working. My mechanic replace the HID bulb, igniter, and ballast and charged me close to $900. $200 in labor and $700 in parts. Is this the norm for those headlights. This was in addition to $100 he charged for trouble shooting the OBD monitor problem. But at the end of the day....I'm just glad everything is working. Thanks to everyone for their help!

 

Good to hear!

After you're passed I'd watch fuel trims in case something is actually a little off. An elm327 can do it.

 

Well good news and you did it yourself!

Yes you got bent over on the HID repair. We really preach DIY on this forum for just that reason. It was doubtful that all 3 things were bad. Most likely it was the bulb or igniter but to avoid replacing very expensive parts a simple trick is to swap the items from side to side before replacing anything.

But remember from the shops point of view they did fix it the first time so it was a successful repair that you paid for. Just many hundreds of dollars more that it really required.
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I tried again yesterday with no success. Heated catalyst, air conditioner, and secondary air still not ready.
One thing that I am having an impossible time achieving in the drive cycle is the coasting from 50-55 to 20 MPH - I start coasting over a half mile from the next light and I'm still forced to use the brakes at 30. Frustrating! A week and a half of driving and I still can't clear those last three *^$%^# monitors.

 

It's not necessarily 100% needed. My monitors set without doing it. The idea is it speeds things up - normally.

Coast downs are largely there to help with misfires. (These are typically ones you cannot hear or feel, they are very very tiny but the car can detect them. A small number pretty well always occur so it's trying to tell if those are there, i.e. normality, or worse ones. During coast downs the PCM is watching how the crankshaft behaves. It can eventually figure it out even without carefully done coast downs.)

I'm more than surprised that you have an a/c monitor. Could it be the comprehensive components monitor instead? (If it is, it may well need the others to set in order for it to run fully.)

The one that worries me most is the (heated) cat one. It really should just set and as it doesn't I'm wondering if there's some sort of problem.

I also don't know why the SAIR one doesn't set. (SAIR is air added to the exhaust - well, pumped in - to help it got hot faster and burn up any pollutants.)

Maybe those two are a hint about an underlying fault.

(My car is too old for SAIR.)

BTW any time the battery is off (or very low) or you clear the OBD codes the monitors are all cleared and you're back to square one.

If you had any codes in the past, think what they might point to. If you've any pending ones, same idea.

You might check fuel trims, hoping for something odd. Also check every sensor you can grasp (temperature ones, mainly). You could do with information (but data might be a start).

Sorry to say but you're one of a tiny number (I hesitate to say one) of S-Type owners with the problem so we've little to go on.

 

Thanks for your reply. I may be forced to take the car in, but as it has set no codes in the past and nothing is shown pending, I'm not sure what they could do outside of also doing the drive cycles themselves.
I wouldn't even be worried about this, but I need to change registration on the car and an emissions test is required first.

 

If you don't DIY find an indy or it could get hugely expensive.