Hello
I have an 04 STR with 122,000 Km.I am of ordering pan,gasket and changing trans fluid and pan.I am looking for best site to order pan,gasket etc.I was going to use Reline D4 ATF which meets Shell spec 1375.4.

1-Has anyone else used the Pentosin or Redline and what has there long term experience been?Has it caused issues with trans?redline tech says their fluid will be fine.My specialist says use the Lifeguard fluid.

2-Trans is surging at 40-60 Km/hr and occasionally taking along time to go into 6th gear.Trans specialist has told me to take it to jag for trans reprogramming with latest software.

Thanks.Fitz

 

Several members have bought the kit from here Oil change kit for 6HP26/28/32

Lot's of info on various fluids if you search, the Land Rover fluid is also the same, but I think I recall someone saying that it is expensive in Canada.

 

Perhaps someone can answer this...There used to be a bottle of friction modifer (FM) you could buy from Jag. Without the FM, many owners experienced a "hoot" sound during wide open throttle (WOT)...Jag even put out a TSB about the sound and the FM being the solution...Now Jag discontinued the FM and it's now added to the LG6 fluid. So, the first question is do other tranny fluids contain FMs? Because if they don't, you may have no choice but to use LG6 or to live with the hoot...

 

I believe so, and oddly that it's faster to call (phone) - how quaint!

 

Well I have to question this so called additive!! My 2005 STR was silent when shifting. I did the pan and fluid change and now have noise in cold temperatures in D and R. Goes away quick with a little driving but still an unwelcome change.
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Thank you for the replies.I am still wondering about anyone's long term experience with using non Lifeguard 6 fluid in their S Type R transmissions?
Fitz

 

I heard the additive was added fairly recently, perhaps about six months and I could see a seller "eager" to clear their shelves of the less popular non-additive fluids...I never got part numbers of the new or old...When was yours changed?

FYI, all 2003+ S-Types came with the same 6 speed transmission if automatic...3.0s and diesels could opt for a manual but if auto it was the same trans...

 

I did the pan and sleeve change a while back with the redline fluid. For the most part, the shift lockup was a bit tighter and sooner which implied seeming faster and sharper gear changes. The only drawback was when you accelerated from a stop very slowly, it would grab sooner when the engine has less torque.

Since then, put about 45,000 miles on the redline and transmission still shifts fine. Since its not a lifetime fluid and I just drained out 5 qts of the fluid and replaced with the now cheaper lifeguard 6. Memory isn't always that reliable but with approx 25% redline still remaining seems to shift somewhat between the 100% lifeguard 6 and the 50% after the 1st change.

 

Actually the transmission additive was old and supposedly the additive is now in the Lifeguard6. That's why the additive has gone obsolete.

Like the other posters have said the Lifeguard6 is now down to about $17/liter. Not great but MUCH cheaper than it had been. I used the vendor listed below. That guy really knows the entire ZF line of transmissions!! I got the plastic pan and filter, new pan bolts, new sleeve and 8L of fluid.

After the change I still have 3 L of fluid. I had planned on doing the change myself and letting the fluid drain for a day or so but without a lift it's tough to do in the driveway on jack stands. i had the legendary Brutal do the work. So i know it was done correctly.
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I'm looking at mine and the job appears a bit daunting. My S-type has 8 winters on it so I just know that most of those pan bolts are going to snap off. And the drain plug is a hex socket and will undoubtably strip when I try to remove it. Everything is now soaking in "PB Blaster".
1 of the trans. cooling lines has a small leak and requires changing, (another s--- job) so I don't have a choice but to get the plug out to replace the leaked fluid.
Wish me luck guys....

 

Hello
I have 7 quarts of the Redline D4 ATF and was planniing on ordering the pan.So to make sure,i wanted to confirm how much fluid will drain from the pan first?
Second,what comes with the pan,fill plug,drain plug,gasket?

It sounds as though the redline worked fine in the trans?
Thanks.Fitz

 

Er.... the first plug I'd make sure I could remove would be the FILL plug

 

Exactly....

If you can't pull that fill plug, you could be hosed....

 

Sorry, I ment the fill plug###

 

That's what I did before taking down for the fluid change. Lucky it's a southern car and zero rust but you never know.

I found the fill plug to be a SOB. It's above the pan on the right side of the transmission and there just is not much room to work. Beside being right up next to the hot exhaust! (all the filling and checking procedure requires the car to be running) I bought a special stubby 8mm Allen wrench finally and got it loose. Use a cheater pipe on the Allen wrench handle. It really "popped" when it came loose. Doing just this part on my back with the car on jack stands convinced me that I really could not do the fluid change!!

The pan bolts were easy on my car but some people strip them by using the wrong size Torx wrench. They are T27 which a lot of tool sets don't come with. The T25 fits sorta but will strip the head when applying pressure. The heads of the pan screws are exposed so you can use a narrow jaw Vis-Grip to break them loose if you strip some of the heads out.

The new pan screws have been up-sized to T40. More common and the larger size will handle more torque. I removed each pan bolt one at a time and dabbed a bit of anti-seize on the threads before taking to the dealer. It's steel into Aluminum and they loosen up with quite a snap. I just figured that would be one less thing to go wrong with fluid change..
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I'll use an impact wrench on the pan bolts which usually works better on a steel bolt in an aluminum housing, *after soaking everything in "PB Blaster" for a couple of days. It's the fill plug that has me worried!
I'll post back with the results.

 

I have had to drill some of the bolt heads off with a 1/4" bit (6.4mm) and drop the pan. The bolt shanks can be removed and new bolts installed.
I use anti-sieze compound on the new bolts.
The drain plug is a plastic plug in a plastic pan so I don't think corrosion is a factor.

bob gauff

 

The redline (full synthetic) worked for 40k miles but back then the lifeguard (mineral oil - can't be called synthetic in some markets) was north of $40/qt and the redline was $16/qt. Today its closer to $20 vs $16 so the lifeguard 6 may be a better choice.

With the car on jack stands, a easy way to break the fill bolt is to face the rear of the car, hold something cold and use your foot to break the bolt...much easier on the knuckles...

 

That fill plug has me scared. It doesn't look like you can even get a scocket on it. It's so close to a frame rail. Maybe I'll try cutting an allen key down to fit it between and then use a pipe to try and break it loose.
The gods are going to have to smile on this one!!!

 

My Lucky day!
I hacked off about a 1/4" from a no. 8 hex key so that it just fit between the frame and the plug, inserted it, put a piece of pipe on the end, pushed, and "pow", it snapped loose.
"clubairth1" is right when he said that it popped. So loud in fact that I at first thought that the hex key had broken. Think I'll go pour myself a "Chivas".