easy peasy Japanesey.....

 

I don't see why a 6-speed should have larger losses. It's also in direct contradiction of ZF's statements. I think the tech is wrong.

 

Agreed. The number of 'speeds' in a transmission is irrelevant. Kinda scary how many ignorant or misinformed techs there are out there. Reminds me of the old joke about '95% of lawyers making the remainder look bad'

 

That's True.

 

Well Avos, my twin-screw piggy bank now has $1000 credit because of no ECU tuning. Look at it this way:
Qwiketx+K&N cost about $300 for a 15+ rwhp increase.
1.7 lb pulley (incl. fitting) cost about $300 for a 15+ rwhp increase.
Hi-flow cats cost about $500 for a 20+ rwhp increase.

A twin-screw SC uses less electricity, generates less heat and maybe could produce 120-150 HP more power in an STR. So, are we talking $2000? (a bargain), $3000 (could be), $4000 (hard to justify) or $5000 (not likely)?

 

TS $$? Fraid your looking at $5000. A blower port/polish ($450) and "Chiller Killer" ($600) has added another 25+ hp on top of the mods you listed. Stiegmier Performance now has a water cooled front snout for the blower. This'll dramatically lower blower temps., maintaining ignition lead. This's the way I'm going....

 

Er... the port & polish may have produced ZERO (near enough or actually) from what was posted so where does a non-zero figure come from?

 

I've been reading the threads of this post with both interest and confusion. The interest is that I also have a 2006 STR and i'm interested in how to pump some more horsepower out of it. My confusion comes from not understanding most of what has been discussed here. I'm sorry to say that although I'm pretty comfortable working on my 68 GT Mustang, when it comes to my STR I am totally in the dark on what to do. Can anyone either point me in the direction of some FAQ's or explain to me the steps/process and/or different options on pumping up my STR. Thanks.

 

Someone will, but a major problem to bear in mind is that by law these cars need a complex computer to control and report emissions - which combined with the small production numbers means various things are either not available or are expensive. (I'm not even mentioning that the engine bay is kinda full. LOL)

 

MirEgal, I was an STR ignoramus when I joined this forum about 4 months ago. Once I knew my '05 STR was on its way, I read every single posting about this car on the forum. Soon got a good feel for the strengths (many) and weaknesses (few) of the STR. I would suggest you consider doing the same, if only to get an all-round knowledge of the car rather than just what's needed for more power. However, to answer your question:

Do a search for Mina and read through the Qwiketz inlet tube posting. The first and easiest step is to instal a 3" air inlet tube (quiketz still has 3 available) and K&N filter, part number 33-2273. That will give you 15-18 rwhp and you will feel the difference.

Next, get and fit a smaller supercharger pulley. There are 2 kinds, the 1.7 lb pulley from Mina, and the 3 lb from Eurotoys (1.7 and 3 refers to the increased boost psi that results from the supercharger spinning faster). From all accounts, the Mina is easier to fit, but the Eurotoys will give more power, and you should gain 15 - 25 more rwhp.

The other power gains come from fitting high-flow Magnaflow cats, polishing the supercharger port (Google "Stiegmeyer"), installing a "chiller-killer" device to keep down supercharger temperatures, plus a few others. Other forum members know more about this - bfsgross for sure will be happy to advise the probable cost and power gain of each option. Forum members also advise that the ZF tranny has a limit of around 440-450 HP, so don't go too crazy all at once!

 

 

Robinb, Bfsgross, cat man do, thx for the info. I want to mod out my '05 STR but really didn't have a clue where to start. I have an idea now. Do u suggest I do a dyno pull before I start modding it out? I was just going to let my "butt dyno" be the judge. Thanks again.

 

@RobinB,
Am afraid the TS is not for you then ;-)


@All
Everyone is throwing rwhp numbers around, as if you can get easily 50 to 75 hp more. I have been following lots of threads, but somehow I have yet to see any good proof (but could have missed a dyno) of these large numbers mentioned.

So a question; after so many years these cars are on the road, and similar years that the same mods (pulleys, ported superchargers, cooling, intake tubing, cats, exhausts etc) have been around, there should be someone that can show some dyno proof or?

 

Most people just dyno once. Mostly after the mods. Beats me why.

Only a few post any figures.

 

Maybe, I also think many don't like to show disapointing results...

 

Avos, if the twin-screw S/C is $5000+ I will at least get peace of mind and stop fretting about when it will be available.

it seems that dyno readings are quite temperature and machine-dependent, and the repeatability of the test is so unreliable that spending $125 on a dyno test to confirm a gain of 15-20 rwhp is probably a waste of time and money. Or have I morphed into a bitter dyno-atheist?

 

Does seem like people are doing multiple mods, costing at least 10 times that figure, but commonly no dynos. It's fine, but it's no way to prove anything or encourage others

 

A base dyno has great value imho, as it will help to understand the status of your car from the start. Anyone that just wants a little more performance (ie 20 or so), has enough with the butt dyno, as there it only matters that one thinks there is an improvement. Anyone looking for 50 or more is another matter, you want to do this as good as possible, and of course with proven mods. There it does matter to do dyno runs, as costs for all the mods to get to these values do stack up.

Why don’t you send me your dyno slip, I can help in interpreting the results, so at least you do get some more value for your results.

 

Def. can picture that. LOL

 

To all, these are my thoughts and experience: Though what I write is basically anecdotal, my 03 STR was dynoed nearly two years ago and we observed 360 rwhp. It took 40 minutes to reach the dyno in 80 degree temps. Ice bags on charge cooler, room fan on, and spraying the intercooler radiator with water. Though DSC was disabled she smelled of burning rubber and threw the ABS light. The dyno slip was e-mailed two month post dyno and I haven't a clue how to post info. for the life of me and the slip is gone and the dyno shop and I hate each other due to my recieving the dyno slip two months post dyno. Now... The STR's ECU is adaptive, the modded air intake tube obviously allows her to breath better, a pulley definitely makes a noticeable difference, and hi-flow cats allows the throttle to bang the tach like a pro. Contrary to jagv8's contention but maintaining my respect for him, a blower port/polish will make power and lower temps as proven by numerous dyno pulls on some STR's and Cobra's, etc. As for maintaining power with the stock Eaton blower, a methyl alcohol or "Chiller Killer" is key. We've all enjoyed the raw power when she's cool in the morning? As for reliable dyno numbers, the correct dyno and disabling of DSC is of paramount importance. At the present, my STR is likely experiencing an intake manifold vaccume leak and will be with Jaguar for repair. Without the leak she ran like skunk. She'd smoke her old stock self. Two different animals till heat soak set in. Dyno or Butt dyno...we're on the right track. Go to dragtimes.com Here you'll see STR's in the 12's with all we're doing.