Robin, begin by removing the wide open throttle flap inside the bottom half of air filter box, drop in a K&N flat panel (like stock) air filter, Eurotoys low temp. thermostat and add WaterWetter, kwiketz modded air intake tube, Stiegmier will port/ polish and pop on a 1.7 or 3 lb pulley, and install water cooled front blower snout (Stiegmier may give discount for the full compliment of mods). Magnaflow hi-flow cats and TruX center muffler to replace center resonator, maintain the remainder of stock exhaust or pop on a pair of Borlas if you want more noise and a few more ponies. Install a "Chiller Killer" to maintain lower intercooler temps. Perform a hard re-set of the ECU after each mod(s). IMO these mods likely amount to a 50+ hp (or more) gain. An ECU tune will likely add an additional 25+ ponies. When cold, my STR actually scares me with her low end torque and power.

 

If I remember correctly, they are not too much heavier than our cars. Maybe like 50Lb's....but more or less 4000lb's. When I test drove an XJR I thought it felt heavier than an STR, so the butt can easily be deceived.

Although they rated it at 459HP, it was more like 510hp (420rwhp + much more trq), hence the reason they can hit high 11.7's @ 120+ stock.

Mercedes-Benz E55 AMG 1/4 Mile Drag Racing Timeslips - DragTimes.com

Like you said, it all comes down to what you like.

 

Bfsgross, intake air flap has been removed, K&N installed and qwiketz tube already fitted. 1.7 lb pulley goes in on Thursday. After that, I may just go for an ECU Tuning job.

By the way, excuse my ignorance - just what is a snake-bite and what exactly is a WaterWetter?

 

Disadvantage of the taking of the air flap (it’s there for a reason, not to hinder airflow), is that it will also suck up hot air when idling/slow driving. This will increase the temp in the system, and the IAT sensor will also be warmer, thus the ecu will retard the timing somewhat. So a takeoff after some idling/slow driving will be less good.
My 2 cents.


@Oesiii
The engine shown from ET is a 4.0 engine, and I can assure you there is/was no partnership with KB for said reasons.

 

Remember - the only person I can recall who dealt with Stiegmier port/ polish was VERY disappointed and regretted doing so.

 

There's two of us that had it done. I already had the blower off so I wasn't pissed because the snakebite is essentially a port job, disassembly and inspection and rebuild and a re-gearing similar to a 3lb pulley.

While I wasn't happy with the hp result, the car does have more midrange power and I know that it's been inspected by one of the premiere eaton rebuilders in the country.

I almost feel bad for the guy because his work is proven; there's hundreds of modular motor ford guys using the m112 with his work with great results. I just think our cars are complete crap for modding and here's why...

we have no way to tune the car..I run alky injection but there's no way to lean it out or add timing. Also no way to raise the threshold at which the CPU starts pulling timing due to air inlet temps
Eatons are very inlet side sensitive and we have no way of going to bigger mass air meters/less restrictive air inlet tracts(size limited by the mass air meter)

The blower is working harder but it's so limited by overall design that the gains are minimal.

 

If you can't make the charge air cooler, which IAT2 measures, you could tweak IAT2 and it'll fool the PCM.

 

True. I was griping a little there. It's been a bunch of work for not much in the way of gains. If I were to do it over I would have just done an intake elbow, k&n and tossed a 50 shot on there to make it fun at the track. The car does have enough power for the street...

 

Are you sure about the re-gearing? I thought based on other forums amongst others, that it was about 50% more. So 2 turns of the pulley would translate into 3 turns of the lobes.

 

I'm not sure. I spoke with him over the phone and he worked it backward from the max impeller speed. He asked about our pulley sizes and redline to calculate the ideal stepup ratio.

 

Just to mention if it would truly be 50% it would be way to much, not just overspinning the unit, but you come at a point that you probably consume more power then you would gain on our setups.

 

Robin, you're on your way to more power. The 1.7 is likely a good compromise pulley= more low end power without too quick a "heat up" of the blower. The "Snake Bite" has done tons of good for those who've had this performed. This'll increase efficiency and lower blower outlet temps. Water Wetter is a coolant product designed to allow greater heat soaking efficiency of coolant. Use Euroteks' low temp thermostat too. An ECU tune will likely pull your mods together.

 

bfs: You stated that "Water Wetter" is a coolant product designed to allow greater heat soaking efficiency of the coolant. Is it a liquid you add to the radiator? Exactly what is a "Snake Bite"?

Did you take a look at the dyno slip and the twin screw pictures I posted last week? Just wondering. No one mentioned seeing them.

I was thinking of taking my STR to the track and I wanted some input as to whether I should manually shift it or start and finish in either 3rd or 4th gear. Any ideas? It's pretty ballsy in 3rd or 4th from a dead stop. Of course it's pretty ballsy shifting from 2nd also! Just figured some of you may have already experimented at your local tracks.

Talk to you later. Have a good day! OESIII

 

OESiii, The "Snake Bite" is a port/polish and re-gear of the front in-put shaft to spin the blades in a 3:1 ratio with that of the pulley. The stock pulley is retained but the interior gearing increases the boost by 3 lbs. The port/polish both increases the blowers displacement and lower output temps. Dynos have shown a 25 hp increase with this mod alone. Check over threads from "1340racer" for details on how to stage and run at the track. He and others have pulled 12.9 (basically stock), 12.8, and 12.7. 1/4 miles. IMHO, the STR is capable of mid 12's with the mods I've outlined. WaterWetter is a liquid coolant additive.

 

I would NOT manually shift this car. For fun, you could do one run and see what happens, but our tranny's shift pretty hard as they are.

For the track do the following:

Only run the car with a less than 1000ft density altitude. If its 80*, you wont be happy with the results. A cold winter night is ideal around sea level.

Let the car sit for as long as possible, possibly an hour with the hood open to let everything cool.

In the staging lanes, drive with the hood popped, but down to let all the hot air out. Push the car (get a friend) if possible to eliminate the start/stop of the staging lanes.

Put the AC on to kick the cooling fans on, then turn it off - I am not sure how long they will run.

When ready to race, drive around the water, and then possibly back up into it and do a quick tire squeel to clear off any crap thats on your tires.

Put the car in S Mode with the traction control off. Put your left foot on the brake and right foot on the gas and try to bring the RPM's up as high as possible as you feel comfortable.

On the third amber, stomp it and the car should rip off the line and keep flooring it till you go passed the timing screen.

A little wheel spin is good as it wheel bring the RPM's up and increase the speed of the tires relative to the rest of the car. If you get excessive wheel spin, floor it 75% until you get passed about 10-20 feet or so then floor it completey.

Have fun and share your results.

Sat night post wine EDIT:

Remove all unneeded weight from your car, so this includes:

only have a 1/4 tank of glass or less, then remove the floor mats, spare tire, jack, anything you have in the glovebox or center consol, and be sure to do a #2 before you race. every 10lbs is roughly 1HP. visualize 12's......

 

Though I have yet to go to a track, rasputin seems to have sound advice.

 

Water wetter is an aftermarket product that has all of the standard ingredients contained in normal engine coolant that reduce corrosion, aeration and most importantly the surface tension of straight water that would inhibit heat transfer. It DOESN'T contain any of the ingredients that raise the boiling point and lower the freezing point. It was originally produced for racing applications where use of conventional coolant is not permitted due to the mess and danger it presents when spilled.

Since there's no reason NOT to use the factory recommended mix of coolant and water in our cars, there's no benefit in adding water wetter since basic coolant already has the additives.

 

Thanks Mike. I picked up WatterWetter but have yet to use it. It'll be added and see what if anything happens with heat transfer.

 

Be careful here;

Porting does NOT increase the displacement of the Eaton SC. What porting is suppose to do is decrease the airflow restriction of the entry and exit ports of the SC. Increasing it's efficiency and ability to move air with minimal temperature increase. The factory has tighter design restrictions such as noise and durability over maximum power. So the theory is that living with more noise and a shorter service life we MIGHT get more power.

So far the results have not been very good on the STR. Please read the entire thread on one guy who HAS done the Snakebite mod. I think is still falls back to the lack of any kind of ECU tuning for the STR.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ite-kit-39802/
.
.
.

 

correct, the porting process does not increase the displacement of the supercharger per turn. The eaton m112 puts out 112 per revolution and that's how it is. The porting just is supposed to help air flow through the case.