The program continues--the lh low beam headlamp wire was replaced so all the exterior lights,including DRL work.Pics of new wire attached.

Next part is to service the cooling system.
Plan is to replace coolant ,hoses,DCCV,auxiliary pump,plastic header tank,t/stat and possibly the T/stat housing.

I have tested the cooling fan using my Mongoose/JLR SDD software/cheap laptop combo and was able to run the fan at all test speeds.

The only puzzle so far is that only about 6.5 L of coolant drained out---according to the specs the system is supposed to contain 13L.

Does anybody know if there is a coolant drain plug on the engine block?

 

Sorry for going off topic but can you show some of what the Mongoose JLR can do? It's pretty expensive and no one on the board has it.
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Actually, several people on the board have it and there is a huge long thread going back and forth between the clone and the genuine.

@six rotors

That is because some remains in the block and heater cores. There are two block drains. 1 above the starter and 1 in the same place on the other side. Most people don't bother.

Because of this, after a water flush, you will need to add full strength coolant to have any hope of getting it anywhere near 50 percent. If you use premix, there is no way to do it.

 

A couple of other points in addition to plums' point:
--it does not have to be so expensive--I spent $280 for my clone system including used laptop and factory software.If I were doing it today I could probably do it for just under $200.

---a local Jag specialist figured up to $800 to fix my low beam/DRL problem.I used my tool to demonstrate that the GECM was ok,and the problem was a broken power wire.My cost to fix $10.

---I reprogrammed 3 new remote fobs, total cost $12 per fob(ie e-bay price of fob).

And just so you know I am 68 yrs old and this is my first Jaguar,and I am no tech wizard(just an old nuclear engineer)

 

Thread is in General Tech but just Search on Mongoose. Get coffee first...

 

Six Rotors,

I am in the middle of a T stat housing change, radiator hose replacement and coolant drain/refill w/new on our '04 VDP 4.2L and noticed, as you did, that not that much coolant came out the radiator drain.

Did you drain your block as well? If so, is there some approach to refilling the block that you are aware of?

Thanks - will post some tips on Tstat housing changes, as there doesn't seem to be one thorough post on this board, all the good tips are hard to gather.

zak

 

Well "plums"indicated to me that there were drain plugs on the cylinder block---at the rear behind the starter motor,but I don't see any on mine.I have taken the T-stat housing and the water pump off and removed coolant with a small hand pump and rubber hose(about 1L).Then I raised the rear of the car and got another 0.5L.I will flush the remainder with water.

The block will fill by gravity when you add coolant mix to the expansion tank--the refill procedure is in JTIS(if you do not have JTIS PM me an e-mail address and I will send you the files).
You will need to use full strength Dexcool coolant to start the fill,then check the mix in the system as you fill and adjust with an appropriate diluted mix.(so for example if there is about 4L of clean water in the block after flushing,add 4L of full strength Dexron,then add 50/50 mix and you should end up somewhere close.Check with a hygrometer)

 

Thanks Six and plums. I did locate the plug in the block, on the drivers side. On an x350 its just forward of the steering rack, pretty far rearward on the block, not sure of the S type relationship to the steering rack. It is brass, set about where you'd expect a freeze plug, female hex key (my 17 mm male hex driver fit it perfectly). I elected not to remove it, as the fluid would have come down right onto two wiring harness connectors (guess I could have wrapped them in aluminum foil). Maybe next time I change the oil I'll do a more complete coolant drain/refill.

 

Do not pour Dexron into your cooling system!

I believe Six Rotors meant to say DexCool....

 

I did.Post edited

 

Well,I finally arrived home from Florida and have now completed the renewal of my cooling system.All went back OK and system filled with 50%Dexcool and distilled water.The engine has been run a number of times and it all works well.
I have taken a few pics.

 

Evening,

Can you tell me where the Auxiliary coolant pump is located? Is it on the right, or left side of the engine? Towards the front or the rear? Closer to the top or to the bottom? Would you have photo's of the pump while it's attached to it's hoses and functional within the engine bay?

 

I assume you are referring to an S-Type with the eight cylinder engine as the V6 models do not use the auxiliary coolant pump.

The auxiliary coolant pump is mounted on the radiator fan housing on the RH side of the engine bay. If you trace the coolant hoses, you will see a black/silver cylindrical object with an electrical connector.

Is the pump leaking or not functioning? Do you have heat at idle?

 

Yes I have a 2005 STR. I'm throwing a code 2601, I am getting heat but no super charger performance. Even the belt to the SC is spinning unusually slow. I cleared the code once using a piece of software I have and the Power was back but only temporarily. I recognize I need to replace this pump to restore things to normal. I'll trace tomorrow if possible and if the weather remains as it was today. You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the device in place would you?

 

Docuzzie, P2601 is not the Aux Coolant pump, it's the S/C coolant pump. Big difference in function and price.

The S/C pump delievers coolant to the S/C intercooler, its intertwined with the rest of the cooling system and the pump is on 100% of the time when the key is in the II posistion. It's only on the STR.

It's unlikely that both pumps have failed at he same time.

 

You can refer to JTIS for diagrams of the component layout. I believe there is a download available on this forum.

Since this may be an issue with an electrical connection, or fuse, check fuse 12 in the engine compartment fuse box prior to condemning the coolant pump. Should the coolant pump circuit fail, the PCM/ECM is set to default to 70 C resulting in 'restricted' performance.

If the fuse and all connections to the pump be normal, you may be able to test the pump with an ohmmeter for an open/short circuit.

 

I'm going to go have a look at fuse 12 now. And you're certainly correct it's not an auxiliary coolant pump, it's for the SC only. I was using some jargon shared on this forum incorrectly. I'll advise as to what I find momentarily.

 

There's a good diagram in JTIS (and has been posted for the STR somewhere, by tbird6 / clubairth1 a couple of times).

 

Here are the diagrams of from the JEPC.

First the AUX cooling pump on the 4.2 NA and SC. It's under the DCCV on the passenger side of the radiator. Hard to get to. Note #1 is the DCCV and several different heater hoses are shown. #2 is the AUX pump.



This is the SC coolant pump only on the STR. It's also on the passengerside of the radiator but lower and more towards the front of the car. Remove the belly pans including the one attached to the front bumper cover to get access to it.



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Thanks much. Mine would be the 2nd of the 2 diagrams presented. Maybe this weekend I'll pull her into the garage and see how simple or complex this operation might be. I ordered 2 pumps, the upgraded one from Eurotoys that woudln't be a direct fit, and a Bosch.