For those who have a 3lb pulley (or 1.5lb), how many miles have you had it on the car and have there been any issues at all? I know the blower will run hotter but have you noticed a difference in engine temp? I know a low temp thermostat is suggested at the same time, what about colder spark plugs?

 

I've had a 1.5 on for about 3000 miles with no problems. I dont drive it much anymore but I did just drive it from NC to Orlando and didnt run any hotter then normal and I still have the stock thermostat and plugs. It is more whiny when getting on it especially paired with the Mafioso intake. Will be doing a trip up too Michigan in 3 weeks so I'll be putting some more miles on her then. I do heat soak quicker when its hot out but I rarely drive the STR if its hot cause I'm usually on my bike. I use my STR for colder weather driving and trips now so may be a bit before I really rack up the miles.

 

Did you notice a difference with the 1.5 lb pulley as far as performance. If you had to do it over again would you opt for the 3 lb?

 

I did notice a performance gain. How much who knows but she does have trouble getting traction when pushed now. When its cold outside it has a difficult time getting traction. Its definitly got more power. I didnt want to be shaving the snout for the 3lb and because it gets really hot here in the summer which would really cause it to heatsoak faster, I think I'd probably stick with the 1.5lb even still. Now if I had a killer chiller I'd maybe go for the 3lb. I think if I do anything else as far as upgrading the supercharger I'd like it to be a twin screw.

 

The 3 lb. has been on for approx. 8 months without a problem. Yes she'll heat soak much quicker in warm weather. A mister, "Chiller Killer", or alky/meth will solve this issue. Cool weather driving is a hoot, due to the much noticeable low-end through mid-range hp/trq. Coupled with the K&N a/f, Mafioso air intake elbow, and full exhaust mod, I'd say she's up to the task against many modern muscle cars. Though I plan to dyno her soon, I estimate close to 460 chp @ 500 lb/ft trq.

 

Have you added additional gas tanks yet ...

 

One size fits all doesn't apply here...Some variables off the top of my head...
Was the car properly warmed up
Octane in fuel (some states don't allow 93)
Air Temps
Overall # of WOT romps (When you come to stop...Are you a WOT first guy and only use part throttle when you need to or a part throttle first guy who only WOTs on ocassion?)
Duration of WOT romps (0MPH-50MPH from a stoplight? or 30MPH-125MPH on an on ramp?)

So, even if someone's engine did blow up and you could somehow prove it was the pulley you have no idea of the person's driving habits...

 

LOL! Bob, she does suck...gas.

 

The other thing to mention as well is that our cars are not running at full boost all day long. My car shifts at a leisurely 1500 rpm or so in 1st, and then 2000-2200 rpm in normal driving conditions in the rest of the gears thereafter. The supercharger is not feeling 1.5 or 3lbs of boost at this low level of RPM right? If anything its a fraction of that but definitely more than stock, so I dont think its something to be overly concerned with. It's too bad we cant find out how much boost we are running at all RPM's under all driving conditions because this would really tell us how much more strain we are putting on our cars. I'd like to know what RPM gives us full 13 Lb's of boost and then compare that to a pullied car to see if the PSI # comes in earlier or grows to a higher than stock number at a certain RPM.

 

I think monitoring timing is a much better indicator of what's going on in the engine than boost...

But in the grand scheme of things, you got all different points of failures...I'm guessing the supercharger itself will probably go before engine, trans or rear end...

 

Installation of a boost gauge is VERY easy. But to answer your question, in normal driving you are probably not in ANY boost. Most engines run at about 15-20in hg. The Eaton S/C has a boost by pass that only creates boost under low vacuum conditions, (Higher engine loads). Get a boost gauge and you'll see. At 1/4 throttle you are probably at about neutral as far as boost and vacuum go.

 

Where is the best place to tap in for a boost signal?

 

Almost any vacuum line will work. The best would probably be the one on the back of the blower. Just tee into it and run the boost line into the cab through one of the firewall ports. The install is really easy even for a non-DIYer. You can get pretty creative if you like on where to mount it, but several companies make generic gauge pods that you can mount about any ware.

I fabricated a custom one from Advanced Composites that uses one of my air vents for the location without blocking the flow. Pretty trick and I CONSTANTLY get comments on where to buy one from.

 

Can you post a photo?

You have to tap ahead of any system check valve because technically a vacuum line never sees boost.

I don't know but does the Jag use vacuum for anything other than a brake booster? Not even sure about that?

 

BTW, the OEM check valves are crap. They let oil get into the intercoolers, reducing the cooling effect, robbing hp. Fab up an oil separator on the blower vacuum line and you'll never have oil soak again.

Many things are controlled by vacuum lines, as in all cars. But anyways, most vacuum lines WILL realize boost. That is why I said you can use ALMOST any line. But you are very correct that some will not. Under boost the vacuum line changes its flow direction. That is one of the reasons check valves are there to stop oil from flowing into the intake system. (They don't work great at all) Also so you can still use your brakes a few times if engine stalls. I am not a fan of intake vacuum lines, it's all emissions crap if you ask me. But all that HOT OILY engine air recalculating back into the intake robs power!

Just tap into ANY vacuum line coming from the manifold and you’ll be fine and getting good readings.

Edit: Sorry forgot the picture... I don't have one on my phone as this is no novelty for me, I did this about 10 years ago. But I’ll snap a shot in the next day or two and post one up. Also just so we are clear, my S-Type is the 3.0. My custom gauge pod is in the Lightning. Still want a picture?

 

Wouldn't reading the MAP sensor be of interest? (OBD so no tapping into vacuum lines needed.)

 

MAP voltage, boost, timing advance, fuel trims and AFRs...Just one big freaking tease as if I saw the numbers, all I'd be thinking of is if ONLY I could tune it...