Rianbechtold, just out of interest what would happen to the machine if it was used on a contaminated system?
There must be a way to recover a system that has become contaminated for whatever reason. Or does it need to be opened up for cleaning?

 

If the contamination is water, it'll be fine. But a rubber pipe's been added and if that's been partly dissolved then there's no way the machine's designed for that. It could be OK. Or it could be ruined. Can't say I'd risk it (if I had an a/c machine).

 

The whole point of pulling a vacuum on a properly sealed A/C system is to get rid of the moisture in the system by lowering the boiling point of water below the ambient temperature by means of lowering the pressure. - hence all the moisture boils out.

The problem is these systems basically recycle refrigerant. They pull out of your car, add to the tank, add it to the next car. They have filters designed to deal with the lube oil but not many contaminants beyond that.

The "proper" way to deal with a contaminated system is to gut all the parts and replace, and then charge fresh. They make capture systems for "contaminated" refrigerant, that don't pull a vacuum, and it just goes into a waste tank, but it doesn't pull pressure.

George

 

Dead on!

Recovery machines do have filters in them for removing SMALL amounts of moisture. His system had a small amount when it was opened to outside air. It received a LARGE amount when he pressurized it with dirty compressed air. The dessicant in the system can only trap so much moisture before it is useless and that amount is VERY small. And don't let the rubber hose and copper pipe fool you. Both rubber and copper pipe are used in the HVAC world. The issue here is the amount of moisture in the system. Moisture, refrigerant and oil create a very acidic mixture when combined. THIS is what causes the contamination.

Some shops will have a designated machine that has already become contaminated, that they will use to evacuate contaminated systems. But even then, the system should be thoroughly flushed before being charged with clean refrigerant.

Contamination in the ac world is like a disease. It is contracted through ignorance and spreads through ignorance. This is why I do not trust a lot of AC shops. If I don't see them use a refrigerant detector before hooking up their machine, I will demand them not to touch my car. All it takes is a single lazy shop to hook up their contaminated recovery machine to contaminate my car.

 

Hello everyone i said i would keep updating so i am doing the air con is still working fine i did add another tin of air con gas shortly after the other and inproved it alot

Pressure still reading the same cannot see any leaks and most inportant its working.

I do need some info though i am looking at buying the sat nav system for my car screen and boot cd unit.

Can anyone tell me where in the boot does the unit go are all the cables really there needed if so where.

Thanks in advance

 

I notice this is a bit of an old thread.

But since I read it through, and there are so many self-appointed experts in here, seemingly more ignorant than TS, going on about "bomb", "EXTREMELY combustible" etc etc, I'd thought I'd post a reply.

First of all

R134a is an inflammable gas...

Secondly

R134a is a VERY common refrigerant used in a wide range of refrigeration and air conditioning applications, including medium and high temperature refrigeration, both domestic and commercial, residential & light air conditioning, automotive air conditioning and industrial applications.

It can be bought in a wide variety of gas cans and tanks.

And as we all have noticed, equipment with R134a leaks.

Now, imagine having all these systems, in houses, industries and cars, leaking an EXTREMELY combustible gas. And on top of that, people who refill their own systems with this gas, mixed with air and other contaminations.

And YET, you've never ever heard of any R134a ignited explosion!

Would be interesting to know, though, how long the repair lasted!

 

I was just reading this and I wonder if the OP ever came back after how rude people were, its only an air conditioning system! (Strictly its only a cooling system as proper air conditioning requires humidification and de-humidification).

I normally frequent the MK2 section of the forums but pop in here occasionally as I've had 3 S-Types over the years back when they were new including a type R which was awesome!

Although the posts were back in 2010 if he had an early car it was already in banger territory and if he tried a simple bodge fix to keep his car working then as long as its not dangerous (and as you point our R134a is inert) then whats the harm it will work or it won't but these kind of fixes keep these cars alive long enough for them to become classics and people like me can then restore them.

My MK2 had some old beer tins pop riveted into the rear of the rear arches which is not a structural point (the MK2 springs only mount at the front) and then undersealed over. It kept the car going for long enough that it survived and 52 years later I bought it and that's what some of these bodges achieve.