For at least a month or so, maybe more, I have had an issue with my air conditioning. It blows extremely hot. Like its on the max temperature possible. The temperature drops maybe 2 or 3 degrees if I put it at the lowest temperature. Which leads me to believe that the air conditioning part responsible for heating the air is no longer responding to my inputs and is on, at max power 24/7. It seems that when i lower the temperature to the lowest possible that the air cooling does work but is being overpowered by the heating element of the air conditioning. Im no expert but its what makes sense to me. I had 3 mechanics look at it the first being a Jaguar dealership, who take me for a fool and wanted to replace the whole air conditioning unit! The second mechanic told me the heater valve was malfunctioning and I had that replaced. Still having the same issue. The third mechanic a Jaguar only mechanic told me my free-on level is low and the compressor is showing fatigue and needs to be replaced. However if it was an issue with the compressor would it not be warm air? and not very very hot air? What i mean is if the cooling element of the air conditioning is not working or not working as well as it should then i would expect a lack of cold air, maybe even warm air but not super hot air as it is blowing now. I believe replacing the compressor and refilling the free-on will not get my air conditioner to stop blowing super hot.

So my question is, im i thinking on the right path here? has anyone had an issue like this?

Also, both sides blow the same hot air. unlike some posts i have seen where one side will blow hot and the other cold. Any help is much appreciated. Im ready to get this repaired just want to make sure im not throwing money at it and hoping it works.

2005 S-type R, 67k miles.

 

Did you perform a search on this topic? There seem to be several threads addressing this issue.

I assume you mean the DCCV has been replaced, however in some 'facelift' S-Types the DCCV can draw excessive current through the control panel unit damaging the circuit board.

If the air conditioning freon level is low, it must be inspected for leaks as the system is sealed and only loses freon if there is a leak. A specific amount of freon (R134) is to be added by weight to avoid overcharging the circuit and is best left to a competent service facility having the necessary equipment.

 

I don't know if this TSB applies:
JTB00183NAS1.pdf


Here is more reading:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...003-faq-36719/

 

Rick, thank you for providing the TSB, however the affected S-Type cars are limited to the 3.0 litre V6 while the OP has a 2005 STR.

 

I think it has been reported that it also applies to the 4.2s & STRs but this fault sounds more like the module or valve.

 

I know, but some years ago someone with a NA V8 had one of these compressors the piston cover on the back and he claimed that by following the TSB it fixed his problem. IIRC even Brutal chimed in and said he had came across a couple V8 that had the piston and cover.

Below is the difference between a V6 (pictured on left) and both the NA V8 and STR (pictured on right) compressors. Also notice the bolt guide lengths between the 2.

 

Check the CCM or the RCCM if you have navigation. You can usually see if any traces are burned. You can fix it yourself or send it off for repair.

Check the bottom of your compressor. If it's greenish/yellow that indicates a leak and you will need to replace the compressor. Now we are a bit lucky here because the compressor is the same as the Lincoln LS V-8.

This thread might help too?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-common-67271/
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Well worth doing a hard reboot if you havnt already ! It worked for me on 3 separate occasions now , I know that my dccv wos the issue but havnt replaced it yet and is still working fine for now ! After a reboot anyways! I havnt had to reboot for a couple of months now fingers crossed , down side is having to leave the sport tranz button out of sport for so long for the tranz to relearn ! Any way look up ( hard reboot ) for str ! It may buy you some time ! And it free to try !

 

Just had a look for s type hard reboot and it is tricky to find so here you go !
Disconnect the battery negitive earth lead in the boot ,
Wait for 1 min ,
Jump the earth strap from the body to the positive terminal
For 30 sec or more to drain all capacitors throu out the cars ecm's
I would then take the earth strap away from the positive for another minute,
Then reconnect the negitive earth strap to the battery's negitive post and tighten,
Start the car and cycle the park brake to inishiate the park brake module ! And your set to go , do not use sport mode on the tranz for 3 or so drive cycles , I have actuly read 300miles but I'm mutch less patient than that and mine works fine! Cross every thing and try your heater ! Can take two goes but wort it if it works good luck

 

Im going to have the compressor replaced, was able to find a brand new OEM one for half the price the mechanic wanted to charge me lol. I have already replaced the heater valve so I know that cant be the problem. The only other issue that could be happening is the climate control module which I have read on here can become damaged when the heater valve goes bad and starts to pull excessive electrical load. I believe that should resolve the issue, worst case scenario, the module has to be swapped as well. Thanks for all the advice guys, helps out alot!

 

Defiantly try the reboot as it resets the modual ! It may just help with the hot air issue if the track is not burnt. ! Just like iPhones, moduals do glitch! I have had mine glitch from just spilling water on the dccv connector plug! And it needed reboot just for that and still havnt had to repair my modual !
It does sound like you have lost your a/c gas too
As my a/c would reduce the the hot temp by about 10 or so degrees

 

Poor idea!

Please don't delay in replacing the DCCV. All you are doing is damaging your climate control module.

When the DCCV fails you are pumping excessive amperage thru a tiny control circuit. This is what burns out the board. It will take it for a while but no one knows how long.

The DCCV is a known problem part and you can get it for a decent price using the Lincoln LS part from Rock Auto, Amazon or EBay.

If you really want to reset the DCCV run your temperature to max hot for a while then to max cold for a while. This drives the DCCV all the way open and then all the way closed.
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I replaced the heater valve about 1-2 months ago.