I'm curious to see what people think. The price is a bit high for the lower, but we really need all the crank pulley we can get since our cars start out with such a small crank pulley. Any before and after dyno's?

There's even that guy in europe that will redo ours on an exchange basis. I'd be curious to see what the impressions were on that one too.

Thanks!

 

Ok, now you've got me curious - "Eurotoys upper and lower pulley set" ???

In research mode now....

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jagua...Q5fAccessories

Then do the bing cash back and get 8% off as well.....save a few bucks


Budsang1 did the upper and lower pulley set up on his XJR....PM him on the details of the kit

 

Why do the lower pulley?

 

cool. I'll do a search on his posts. I'll probably give Eurotoys a call toward the end of the week. I'm going to budget $2k toward mods on the car and I'll be doing the labor myself. It'll be interesting to see what I can get out of the setup.

Changing the lower is a way to increase the blower speed. The upper is another way. Combined you can really speed up the blower.

 

hmmmm I love to learn new thingies and this is 1 I never knew about.

 

Ahhh shoot! This is for those fancy dancy S-type R's. I've got me just a plain ol' S-Type.

I agree though, cool to learn something new about our Jag's!

Cheers!
Rob

 

Yea, the lower pulley will spin it faster for more boost, which is nicey nice

 

And please don't forget the extra heat it generates, and the extra performance it costs your engine to turn that thing faster. You will feel mid-range power improvement, but in the end your top end power (or once your system filled with heat) will collapse. At least this is what happened on my car when I put on a larger lower pulley (iirc it was about 17 psi or so). My top end power was about the same as stock on the dyno, so final result was a feel of more mid-range power, more fuel consumption, and more blower noise.

For anyone, I can really advise to first make a good base dyno (very important, preferably with a clean filter and imho the K&N panel filter). Then you will know if your engine is in good shape, so ready to further tune. This will help in understanding if you do not get the power you think you should get after a tune (for whatever reason of course).

Then it would be great if you could make after dynos (as so far these seem very scarce), at least you will know then what it is you get.

 

I'll probably counter the increased heat with alcohol/water injection. It works great for my situation because I'm here in CA with 91 octane gas. With a tune, it'll allow more timing to be added as well. I'm also going to look into getting a tune done as well but that my blow my budget for now.

There's a couple of options for where I want to get. I could go with the pullies (upper and lower) from Eurotoys. Another route is get the factory blower ported and have them swap to a smaller upper pulley when the shop has the blower. I'm not sure which route I'll go yet; I'll have to price them out.

By the way, I've found that the alcohol injection is worth about 50 hp on a 450 hp supercharged motor through adding timing and the cooling effects. I've also found that it allows the car to run a little more consistent in various outside temps. I haven't looked into where/how to setup this type of car on it, so that's something I stilll have to research.

I definately plan on getting a before and after dyno. I was at the dyno yesterday for a dyno day watching a bunch of Toyota Supras on there. The highest dyno of the day was only 486. I wanted to strap my corvette on there and spank them but I didn't want to have to wait (they were giving 2 free runs yesterday for a grand opening party). I'll definately be back there with the S type R to baseline and dyno after mods.

 

By the way, $1500 for a lower pulley is pretty outrageous. I had ATI do a custom cog pulley setup for my vette that was one off and that only cost $1150 and that was with a whole brand new ATI damper. I wonder what it would cost to have them make a larger crank. The finished product would be superior to a modified stock one in my opinion.

 

find out and let us know! I heard getting the crank pulley off on the STR is a total PITA!!!!

 

I ent back to the stock air box w/ K&N and it felt better than the Mina Cold air I had on it.....I will be getting a dyno of the pulley swap and exhaust change and see what the gain was over the stock dyno pull I had.....It does make a lot of sense about the lower, IMO it is not worht the cash for a few more #s of boost, rather port/polish the HEATON and get it tuned.....then next year talk to you about doing that KB swap over

 

For the money, I'm thinking of going to an upper and a blower port. I'd like to get a tune also with added timing for alky injection.

 

Stiege can change the internal stepup ratio on the eaton so I'm going to see if they can do this on our s type. I left a message for a call back with Bob earlier today. I'll post what I find out. I'm taking a look at what they call the "snake bite" package.

 

@qwiketz

The timing is basically already pretty advanced, when all conditions are right at top end speed it would be about 23 degrees advance. It is that the ECU is measuring the temps after the intercoolers, and then adjusts its timing to that, so with higher blower speed the ecu will retard the ignition due to the extra heat it is measuring (and the more heat soak the bigger the effect), and that is one point where you lose power. You can easily check this with a standard OBDII reader ignition timing is shown as a standard sensor to follow. Just do a couple of full power runs, and you will see how the ECU could even drop to 16 degrees or so. So imho, buy just cooling the charge better with for example the alky systems, the ECU will advance back up upper 23 degrees region pending the cooling capabilities to get some power back that you have lost.
Pending the mods and pressure (heat) it might even be better to retard the tuning, but that is something that should be learned from a good dyno test (believe me not easy with these water to air intercooled engine systems, takes a lot of time to get constantly the same condition when testing…).

 

I have already had a long conversation with Stiegemeier and the "SnakeBite" package really seems the way to go. It keeps all the pulleys stock and works internally. I was quoted $1295 plus shipping for everything. About a 3 or 4 day turn around. His estimate is 50-70 HP increase at the wheels. The heat buildup over a simple pulley change is reduced because of the porting to increase air flow and efficiency. Suppose to add more boost down low where our heavy cars and high rear end ratio's really need help. He also mentioned only small gains from porting other parts of the intake system.

Down side of the SnakeBite is more noise at idle and WOT. He claims when cruising that you won't be able to hear the difference. He also said most Mustang guys like the noise and have ventilated hoods and no insulation or hood pad installed. With the stock Jaguar setup the noise should be more muted. He claims to have done several Jaguar M112's? He also very strongly recommended a low temp thermostat and changing the plugs to copper core ones. I have been warned about using low temperature thermostats in the Jaguar so don’t know if I will do this part or not??

Anybody know anyone who has done this upgrade?? I have just purchased a used blower from a 35K mile XKR. I have also verified with the Jaguar dealer that all 4.2 L Jaguars use the same M112 blower. So you can get one from a XKR or XJR for use on our S Types. A new blower from Jaguar runs about $1700. Which I thought was not that bad! Part # AJ89855
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So what do you get with the snake bit package?

 

Here ya go.

 

I love blower whine. I still haven't talked to bob, but I'm definately considering the snake bite package. Combined with alky injection, this should definately get me to where I want to be hp wise (475 ish).