Hi,
I took my 2003 Jag S-type to a repair shop and after performing a diagnostic test found that the front auto leveling sensor was not working so after replacing it the lights now work. When I turn on the car the lights automatically turn down and then up and finally to the driving level. Unfortunately the lights are still pointing too much towards the ground and have to turn on the bright lights in order to see. I tried manually adjusting the horizontal and up and down screws which helped but they are now adjusted to their maximum. Does anyone know why I can't adjust them manually to get the proper lighting?

Thanks

 

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to S-Type forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.

Graham

 

Is this a continuation of your other post?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...solved-106985/

 

The well-known solution:

 

Yes I believe so. After installing the auto leveling sensor and now that the lights are working properly I though for sure that they were fixed. But like I said in the posting I still can't get the lights to point high enough to see the road at night. I grab one of the light assemblies and it seemed solid but the other side moved a little but according to the Jaguar mechanic seemed good. So I was wondering if there is a mechanic piece that could of broke when manually turning the two screws on each side of the light assemblies. I turn them and can get some adjustment but not high enough.

 

hi,
now with the auto leveling system working properly wouldn't putting the screws in the light assembly would prevent the auto leveling system from working?

 

NO. Please do some reading on this. We have many threads where it is all layed out and explained.
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It should be pretty obvious if you have the common failure that the sheet metal screw bodge fixes. Just look at the video in post #4 at time marker 1:35. In the center of the video frame is the shiny (chromed) plastic piece that the sheet metal screw would bear against - that piece is within the plastic headlamp enclosure, just above the pictured big bolt head and washer. When you do the wiggle test, that is the piece that moves around.

The failure can be determined even without the wiggle test - if the shiny plastic piece is clearly visible in its forward position as in the 1:35 frame, the well known failure HAS occurred; if the shiny plastic piece is NOT clearly visible, but located towards its rear position, just under the large flat plastic section with the curved front edge and rectangular slot (that section is near the person's wrist in the 1:35 frame), then the failure has NOT occurred.

If you can see the shiny chromed plastic piece in its forward position (yes - failed), but you can not wiggle the headlamp unit, then you may have TWO simultaneous failures - a second failure is causing a jammed condition preventing the wiggling of the headlamp.

Are you sure you are "wiggling" the headlamp properly? If you are mainly pushing the headlamp FORWARDS, you will not get much of a "wiggle" since that is already the failed position. It is the BACKWARDS wiggle that generates the most visible motion, since then you are pushing the headlamp unit towards the rearwards position that it should normally be in. The wiggle-waggle should be painfully obvious for this common failure mode. For that, the sheet metal screw is a brilliantly simple fix.