For the last month, I've had an electrical problem with my 2003 S-Type that kept getting worse. When I turn the key, I get a clicking but the engine does not turn. I usually solved the problem by tapping the positive battery terminal and the engine turns and starts without a problem. I finally got a chance to work on the problem and yesterday I disconnected both terminals (negative first) and cleaned and tightened the terminals. The electrical system has now gone wacky! I took care of the one touch window reset and the parking brake reset and the radio works fine. However, I still only get a click at best out of the ignition and the anti-theft alarm (honking) comes on as soon as I remove the key. I've got a warning of an "ABS FAULT" and "DSC NOT AVAILABLE". Is there some kind of reset sequence I missed or do I still have a battery problem?
Thanks,
Andy

 

You haven't fixed the battery problem - either a dead battery or a bad contact.
Have you got a voltmeter?

 

Yes, I have a multimeter.

 

Measure the battery voltage at the terminal posts, then get someone to turn the key and see what voltage you get.
I don't know your car layout but you should also measure the voltage under the bonnet as well and see what happens there. Please post results.
Download the JTIS from the Stickies at the top of this section - there's a complete electrical diagram as well as an invaluable workshop manual.
This is a power problem, not a reset.

 

Measured the voltage on the battery. Unloaded it is 15V. With the key in the full ignition position, voltage is 10-11V.

 

bad battery, how you have 15 volts is a big??? but 10-11 is toast with key on, a fully charged battery is 12.6. 2.1volts per battery cell, x's 6. you issues are from a bad battery. try running with your hand over your mouth. thats what youre asking the electrical modules to do

 

Hey that's a pretty good description!
Never thought about it like that.
.
.
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Battery bad..replace.....

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll replace the battery. One thing that I don't understand: When I first had the problem, the engine had plenty of battery power to start. After I disconnected the battery and cleaned the terminals, that's when the electrical system went ape----!! Why should it be so drastically different since in reality the battery's condition, good or bad, didn't change? I'm just concerned that even with a new battery I'm going to have these weird indications (alarms, steering wheel going through full travel, etc.).

 

More than likely one or more of your battery cells is marginal or just shot. Even if you had 15V (which could be a pre-cursor to an alternator/regulator issue) a 5V drop at ignition is a HUGE draw and as Brutal pointed out - any voltage under 12.5 - 12.6V at ignition is not suitable for the onboard electronics.

As everyone else has alreay pointed out within this thread - install a new battery and you should be good to go.

 

A quick Google search doesn't show many sources for the 2R83-10655-AA battery. Is it that special and does anyone know a good source of supply?

 

Interstate have the best(imo) for cranking amps that are at or above what theyre rated at

 

Here you go...

Bosch Premium Performance Battery | Product Details | Pep Boys

 

While you're at it, get a hygrometer at most any auto parts store. Check the battery cells, bet you'll find one or more bad.

 

Also check your multimeter - I'm not convinced about the 15v.

 

I bought the new battery and I'm ready to put it in but now the trunk is locked, obviously without any power. Thus, when the battery is removed, the default position for the trunk lock must be "locked". Anyway, there appear to be a number of ways to open the trunk but I'm not sure if the various solutions applied to the 2003 S Series. Looks like on some models you can remove the license plate and find an access hole and there is a lever you can actuate to open it. Any ideas?

 

Have you tried the key?
Jaguar S Type how to open trunk if battery is dead Jaguar Hilton Head - YouTube

 

Thanks, Norri. I found the keyhole a short time ago although on the 2003 S it is on the right. It looks just like a Torx head screw until you get up close.

Thanks to everyone for the great advice! Battery is installed, engine runs, life is good again. And Abonano, the Bosch at Pep Boys was about $40 less than the comparable Auto Zone Duralast!

 

nibroc1 - Glad to hear your back up and running. I did my homework with battery selections before finding the Bosch - the Bosch battery gives you your best "bang for your buck" - I have the same battery installed in my S Type and have been very satisfied thus far!

 

Hey - good result! Thanks for the follow-up.