just what it states. I'm working on a 2005 jaguar S type with the 3.0 v6 the alternator was bad and was should 12. at battery and replaced alternator now have 14.5v at battery but the dash light will not go off I'm getting 14.5volts at battery and at the alternator. cleaned battery terms.

 

just to let you know I do have engine codes
P1582 flight recorder data is stored
P1632 generator charge system failure/ generator load feedback circuit failure.


HELP PLEASE CAR IS SOLD NOW>

 

Sounds incompatible replacement.

 

I think JagV8 is right, a search in the X Type section may yield more info.

 

ok thanks I ordered another alternator and will be replacing it tomorrow ill keep you posted. thanks

 

When you get a chance...................remember that new member intro.

 

Sounds like the voltage regulator (internal component) is shot - alternator replacement required.

 

Aftermarket replacement alternator? It will work just fine, but you will have the "Batt" light constantly. You need to have the old alternator rebuilt, or get a used-but-functional one from a breaker. (Well, when our 03 S-T had this problem new-from-dealer was somewhere North of $400, IIRC - so we put up with the light for awhile - 2 yrs or so.) I eventually got one from a local yard for about $70 and fitted it.


Something to do with the regulator not acting the way the module is expecting it to.

 

ok now I have bench test this alternator and I know its good. placed it on the car and still the same thing the light is on and have 14.5 volts at battery in truck charging. got new codes too p0138 o2 bank 1 sensor2, p1146 gen low input, and the same codes as before p1582 flight recorder data, and p1632 gen charging failure. I don't know what im doing wrong but I know I tested this alt and was good on a bench.

 

It may be good on the bench but is it compatible with the S-Type? Most aren't.

 

Clear all codes EVERY TIME you do any repair. Then see if they come back. You have no idea what you have unless this is done.

Did you see the comment about using a factory alternator only above?
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cleared codes and these are what stayed. p1146 gen c low input, p1582 flight recorder data, p0138 o2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2.

 

Looks to be saying it's not compatible.

 

Nitro,
As I stated earlier, I installed an AUTOZONE replacement alternator on an 03 SType 3.0L and had constant
"Batt" light. Actuated the lifetime warranty replacement about a year later due to a delaminating damper (but that's another story) and the replacement did the same thing: charged and maintained the battery fine, but with constant red light. Another year on or so, and I obtained a used alternator from a junkyard, boxed the practically new autozone and put it on the shelf for the next alt failure on either the -3/05. I will fit it in the interim whilst having the failed OEM version repaired at an electric shop. Anyway, my take is that the voltage regulator installed in the aftermarket alternators is not up to playing games with the ECM as described below.
I offer the following excerpt from the JTIS as my explanation of the phenomenon you are experiencing:

"The Engine control module (ECM) can switch the voltage regulator between two voltages to optimize the charging of the battery.The low voltage regulator setting is 13.6 volts and the high voltage regulator setting 15.3 volts, measured with the generator at 25 degrees centigrade (77 degrees fahrenheit) and charging at a rate of 5 amps. These values decrease with a rise in temperature or current flow.The ECM determines the output voltage setting of the generator. The high voltage setting is always selected by the ECM once the vehicle has started. The ECM determines the period of time that the high voltage setting is selected for.There are three different time periods selected by the ECM which is dependent upon the vehicle conditions when the vehicle is started:The longest period of time is selected if the ECM determines that the vehicle has been 'soaking' for sufficient time to allow the engine coolant temperature (ECT) and the air intake temperature (IAT) to fall within 6 degrees centigrade (43 degrees Fahrenheit) of each other.The intermediate time period is selected when the ECT and the IAT is below 15 degrees centigrade (59 degrees Fahrenheit).The shortest time period is the default time and is used to provide a short period of boost charge.At the end of these time periods the voltage is always set to the low voltage setting to prevent the battery from being over charged.The time periods are variable depending upon the temperature and battery voltage. The target voltage of the battery varies between 14 volts and 15 volts depending upon the ambient temperature and the vehicle operating conditions. Once this target voltage has been achieved, providing the vehicle has been operating for at least the shortest time period, the ECM will reduce the voltage regulator to the minimum setting of 13.6 volts."

 

The new alternator from Jaguar will be he re on Monday so will follow up with you then. Thanks for the info but the customer new owner stated if we can't get the that light to go off there would be no deal. So used car department spent the 870 on a new alternator. Yes I know it's more than the price if you go to dealer and get one but my parts department has to make money too. You know how it works. Well ill let you know on Monday about this pain in my ***. Still more to come as there buying more Jaguars, BMW, and now Mercedes. Wow big pockets but big rewards was told by the used cars department. Bonus from what I'm told each month.

 

I'm reasonably certain the Jag alternator will sort things out for you. You may want to make sure the battery is fully charged while you await its arrival. Otherwise, you may find you have myriad other lights to explain to the prospective new owner(s), not least of which may include transmission fault and park-brake fault.


I assume you've already seen this, having likely disconnected the battery for some of the service, but when you reconnect it, the alarm will light-off, so you may want to have the key-FOB handy to cancel it. THen, first key-on after battery has been reconnected you will get a notification to "Apply park brake" in the message center. It won't however, remind you of the one-touch-window-recalibration which will also need be done. IIRC, put each window down, then up, and after all the way up, release and re-press the "up" switch until you hear a slight click. Then one-touch down/up ought to be restored. There is a park-brake recalibration procedure in here somewhere if the message-center directions don't restore proper operation. Involves some sequence of 6 or 7 firm presses of the foot-brake with some combination of park-brake switchology....

 

Thank you very much for everyone's help with this been on this car for 4 days and still couldn't figure it out. So yes I got a new OEM alternator coming for Monday. I will put a charger on it first thing in the morning about 7 am tell alternator shows up at 10. Thanks again and will keep everyone posted.

 

Ok update for everyone yes putting the OEM alternator on the car fixed the battery light on the dash. Thanks everyone with the help may need more help in the future as was told there buying more of these cars so OEM parts here I come.

 

i know this is an old thread, but can I ask a question
I have a 2005 s type 2.7 V6 TD.
When I start the car cold the alternator produces 14.5 volts, but a short time after start up the , normally 3 miles or so, the battery light comes on and voltage drops to 13.6 volts at the battery.
Then on a long drive the light sometimes goes off, but may reappear. When it has gone off, I have stopped straight away, and the battery shows over 14 volts with the engine still running.
Also on a few occassions just as the battery light goes off, the gearbox clunks in to fault mode. I stop and restart, and this goes.
My point is that I am getting worried by the light which is slowly getting worse in that it is on more often, but should I be worried if when its on the voltage at the battery remains no lower than 13.6?
I have read that there is a fuse that can be removed so that the alternator produces over 14 volts all the time? Is this the case? If so I wouldn;t have a worry that the alternator may soon fail ?
Any thoughts please

 

What is battery voltage 24 hours after last charge, at rest? I'd be more worried about the battery than the alternator. How old is it?