A/C Leak Under the Dash?
I have a 2001 S-Type and I'm going on the 3rd summer of having A/C issues. Originally I had a leak at the compressor so I got the compressor and the dryer changed. Even after it was changed it still seems like it would blow cool but it wouldn't compete with the 85+ weather.
Now this summer I got a A/c check and recharge and they told me that they can not recharge it because I have a leak coming from under the dash and they think its the evaporator.
When I called the dealer they said to change that you have to take out the dash and it will be $2500 to do. $900 in parts (if those parts are still around.)
Is there anything else it could possibly be? I REALLY don't wanna put that kinda money into this car.
Now this summer I got a A/c check and recharge and they told me that they can not recharge it because I have a leak coming from under the dash and they think its the evaporator.
When I called the dealer they said to change that you have to take out the dash and it will be $2500 to do. $900 in parts (if those parts are still around.)
Is there anything else it could possibly be? I REALLY don't wanna put that kinda money into this car.
Last edited by mikchek; May 9, 2018 at 10:23 PM. Reason: typo
Even after it was changed it still seems like it would blow cool but it wouldn't compete with the 85+ weather.
Now this summer I got a A/c check and recharge and they told me that they can not recharge it because I have a leak coming from under the dash and they think its the evaporator.
Now this summer I got a A/c check and recharge and they told me that they can not recharge it because I have a leak coming from under the dash and they think its the evaporator.
I'd suggest checking for a leak yourself to confirm the diagnosis. I have a leak detector like this one and it works great for only $20:
Be sure to check the vents on the dash. If the evaporator is leaking, that is where the refrigerant will escape. The best time to check is after the car has set overnight, before you turn on the fan. Once the fan starts running, any leakage will dissipate and be harder to detect.
After that, I'd suggest running through my guide here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/
Specifically, check the operation of the DCCV as detailed in post #2. Could be the AC system is not the entire problem. A stuck DCCV could be dumping heat into the cabin.
Next, drive the temp selector down to LO. This puts the AC system in manual mode and bypasses many of the automatic functions. Does the AC put out adequate cold air now? This will help determine the next steps to take.
It's possible but we don't see many evaporator leaks on the S Type.
Before tearing into the dash which is a HUGE job I would get a second opinion.
Do you know about the DCCV problem?
Has the DCCV been changed?
.
.
.
Before tearing into the dash which is a HUGE job I would get a second opinion.
Do you know about the DCCV problem?
Has the DCCV been changed?
.
.
.
How did the shop diagnose the leak? Did they pinpoint it with a leak detector? Or did they just make a guess because they didn't find any other faults?
I'd suggest checking for a leak yourself to confirm the diagnosis. I have a leak detector like this one and it works great for only $20:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FK1EH2...&pd_rd_w=Pqknu
Be sure to check the vents on the dash. If the evaporator is leaking, that is where the refrigerant will escape. The best time to check is after the car has set overnight, before you turn on the fan. Once the fan starts running, any leakage will dissipate and be harder to detect.
After that, I'd suggest running through my guide here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/
Specifically, check the operation of the DCCV as detailed in post #2. Could be the AC system is not the entire problem. A stuck DCCV could be dumping heat into the cabin.
Next, drive the temp selector down to LO. This puts the AC system in manual mode and bypasses many of the automatic functions. Does the AC put out adequate cold air now? This will help determine the next steps to take.
I'd suggest checking for a leak yourself to confirm the diagnosis. I have a leak detector like this one and it works great for only $20:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FK1EH2...&pd_rd_w=Pqknu
Be sure to check the vents on the dash. If the evaporator is leaking, that is where the refrigerant will escape. The best time to check is after the car has set overnight, before you turn on the fan. Once the fan starts running, any leakage will dissipate and be harder to detect.
After that, I'd suggest running through my guide here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/
Specifically, check the operation of the DCCV as detailed in post #2. Could be the AC system is not the entire problem. A stuck DCCV could be dumping heat into the cabin.
Next, drive the temp selector down to LO. This puts the AC system in manual mode and bypasses many of the automatic functions. Does the AC put out adequate cold air now? This will help determine the next steps to take.
That makes a lot of sense. DOnt trust TiresPlus to diagnose my A/C issues. I will check out your links and look for a more qualified spot to do my a/C stuff.
does it have to be a jag A/C shop or can it just be an A/C shop?
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The company told me I had to change my ports and recharge the system for $250 (which I feel like was BS) but once they charged it up they said that my compressor is leaking really bad which is frustrating because I just changed the compressor and dryer assembly at a different shop 2 years ago.
Now they want $1200 for me to do it again. Can a compressor go bad in 2 years?
I'm so over it!!!
Now they want $1200 for me to do it again. Can a compressor go bad in 2 years?
I'm so over it!!!
when I originally replaced the compressor and dryer it never seemed like it got as cool as it should. maybe the part was defective I don't know but is it possible they used the wrong compressor or one that is not strong enough?
It depends. Some aftermarket brands are perfectly fine and some are junk. For example, I installed an aftermarket 4 Seasons brand compressor in my Ford pickup several years ago and it has been working great. I wasn't about to put myself in the poorhouse for an OEM compressor.
Also, the Lincoln LS shared many of the same parts as the S-Type. IIRC, several folks have reported good results using the Lincoln compressor.
If replacing the compressor, consider making this modification for improved performance, detailed about halfway down in post #4 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...2/#post1714573
Copied for your convenience:
"If you find a full evacuation and recharge is necessary, there's a service bulletin you should consider. Jaguar issued instructions to reposition the bypass valve piston and spring inside the compressor. See the introduction section (Post #1 at same link) for more details of this valve. This modification disables the compressor's pressure-sensing variable output feature, and runs the compressor at maximum output. I have not done modification myself, as my AC system has generally performed very well. For all I know, it was done before I bought the car. Supposedly this can be done from underneath the vehicle without removing the compressor. You must completely depressurize the system, meaning a full evacuation and recharge must then be performed. Once again, I've no personal experience with this simple modification, but other forum members swear by it.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...fficiently.pdf
The directions aren't very clear until you read them a few times. You are removing a piston and spring under an access plate on the aft side of the compressor. Originally, the piston was spring-loaded towards the plate. For this modifiction, you are inserting the piston first (not flipped, same orientation), and then putting the spring closest to the plate. This forces the piston away from the plate and disables the variable output feature. This link (from the X-Type section of the forum) shows the plate, piston, and spring on the same type of compressor:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...problem-53501/
I'll look into this modification next time I have to do an evacuation and recharge. If your AC had been performing well until recently, this likely isn't your problem. This modification is more appropriate if performance has been okay but never stellar, especially at lower speeds.
Curiously, this same type of compressor (Visteon brand) is used on many vehicles of this vintage, particularily Fords, Saturns, and Volvos. If you search online, you can find a lot of information about this valve. However, as best I can determine, Jaguar was the only vehicle manufacturer that issued instructions to disable the variable output feature. "
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