I put in a new shifter cable and played with the adjustment, that improved it a lot (instead of having to put the shifter in 4 or even 3 to get it into gear) but the codes and bad shifting was still there...

One other thing, when I removed the valve body a red spring fell out from somewhere, where does that go? (I remember someone posted about it "master spring"? but can't find that post now...)

Moving on, I fixed the headlights.







That's after 1500/3000 wet+dry thn sealer on the high beam lense, made a big difference...



Headlights back in, I repaired both sides and did the lenses. Came up ok.

Then I got started on the front suspension, passenger side first.







Bottom ball joint is shot to bits. It's got a fair bit of play vertically & makes a little knock when you move it, guess that's where the noise was coming from.



Top ball joint is actually pretty tight, but the boot is split & I already ordered new upper arms so will change them out anyhow.



Lower shock bush is a bit loose I think, but I can't get a sound out of it. Will change em anyhow.



Tie-rod end is nice and tight, even though the bush is split. Will leave that for now.

Have a problem getting to the rear bolt of the upper arm. This is the view from the top. I've tried to remove that bracket with the wiring on it but it's held in by a 3rd bolt (circled).





If I can't move that bracket I don't know how you are supposed to get to the nut for the rear bolt of the upper arm...?

Or do you have to remove the scuttle and go in from the back (take out the panel?)??

 

How hard it would be to do something like this? I actually bought a mint silver 3.0 V6 s-type a few months ago as a daily run around. Coincidentally, I have also owned a 1992 Lexus Soarer 2.5GTT for the past 4/5 years which has been sat the last year with a leaking fuel tank which I have been too busy to source.

I believe my soarer has the 1JZ GTE, as shown in the picture above. How difficult and expensive would transplanting the engine into my v6 s-type be? I was planning to twin-screw my STR when the kit becomes available but if this would be cheaper as I already have the engine...

 

It's the same effort for a 1JZ or 2JZ, they are the same externally so either way.

However you need a front sump i.e. one out of an Aristo or Lexus IS300, the Supra's & Soarers have a rear sump which won't fit with the crossmember in the S-Type. (The V6 & V8's are front sumped)

But either way, the hard part isn't fitting it in, it's getting it to run and having the rest of the car still operational as well; everything from the a/c to the ABS, to the dash to the airbags, they are all interconnected with Canbus so if the Jag ECU isn't there, then nothing works.

Two ways to go about it

Strip everything out of the car and run the Toyota ECU as a standalone, and then cobble the other systems together or replace them entirely.

Run the inline six using the Jag V6 ECU, and then use interceptor/piggyback ECU's to manage the tuning.

Option 2 was my choice, but it would still be a lot of custom work and hacking.

Not impossible, but not cheap. The idea of putting a JZ in anything is cheap power, it just would not be cheap with the Jag...

Anyhow, todays efforts. Got the springs for the valve body, put it all together and got the transmission running. Haven't really tested it since the car is still up on stands, but there is drive, so that's a reasonably good sign...

Oh and I figured out where the red master spring goes...



Picked up the exchange vertical link with new bottom ball joint, and got the new lower bushes put in the shocks



Then got started on the upper wishbones, not an easy job to get them out...

Problem is access to the bolts. The left side front is fine, but the left side rear requires that you remove the scuttle where the cabin filter is (on a RHD car, I guess it will be mirrored for a LHD one i.e. right side)



The other side is worse because the bolts are blocked by the ABS module bracket and the brake master cylinder...





There is no way to use a ratchet on the rear one, so I had to turn the bolt on the inside 3/4 turn while holding the nut with a socket, then remove the socket from the back, turn the whole thing back 3/4 turn, and repeat. Total PITA, because the bolts on the inside have these big tabs on them to stop you from turning them.





Eventually I got them both out.



So now i'm waiting for the new upper arms to arrive. Not happy at all, I got stooged by the ebay seller. They said they were in Queensland, then I got the tracking number with "TW" at the end which means shipping from Taiwan. Was then that I checked the sellers feedback and there were lots of neutral & positives where people complained that they shipped from Taiwan when the seller presented himself as being in Australia. What gets me is that there is another seller (with similar name) who says he's in Taiwan and the same parts (but different pictures) are $148 with free shipping, but the "QLD" ones are $180 with free shipping, which you would think are being delivered from QLD, not bloody Taiwan...

They had better turn up tomorrow, but I doubt they will....just waiting on these to finish it...

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply Cambo, I assumed it would not be an easy swap due to the complex electronics of our jaguars. It seems a better idea to wait it out for Mr. Avos' kit in that case then. Great work on your s-type by the way, looks like it's going to be a brand new car by the time you're done.

 

One last thing I forgot to mention, about the transmission if you went with a JZ. You need the Toyota ECU to run the Toyota tranny. This won't work if you try to run the JZ with the Jag ECU + piggyback. My idea was to flash the Jag ECU with the manual file, do the harware changes and run a manual box behind the JZ.

Yeah it's a lot harder than stuffing a JZ in an 80's or early 90's vehicle....

And now back to my current issues...

Don't want to jinx myself but it looks like the gearbox problems have been resolved with the springs/shift kit. Will know for sure when I can do a proper roadtest, but "driving" it up on the stands it's going through all the gears and after a few miles it did not throw up GEARBOX FAULT or log any codes, so fingers crossed we are good.

Wasn't that simple in the end though...

I had underfilled the tranny by about a litre (2 pints, whatever that is in quarts, learn the metric system people!) so it was not happy...after sorting out the fluid level it was better.

Also had a drama in that I unplugged one of the pressure sensors from the brake master cylinder to try & access the bolt for the upper wishbone, forgot to reconnect it so a code was logged and the DSC light in the dash wash flashing. Reconnected the sensor but the code wouldn't clear & the light was still at it, so I reflashed the ABS module and everything was fine.

Then when testing out the transmission I forgot to turn the DSC off, so there was banging from the brakes and no throttle. I thought I had ruined the tranny but then I realised, turned the DSC off and it was behaving well.

Went through all the gears and no codes or error messages after about 3 kms up on the stands, then got the ABS/DSC error because the front wheels weren't spinning (like when you are on the dyno). Tried it again an hour later and still no gearbox codes so looking good...

While reading the codes I was reminded of another problem I had been ignoring...the power steering went heavy a couple of months back, I thought it was just because of the alignment being out thanks to the bad ball joint, but no, it's more than that, the variable assist solenoid has failed, got the codes C1924 & C1925 = bad solenoid...





Ignore the U code, it's because the front wheels weren't turning.

Here's what the solenoid looks like.





It's a ZF item but the part number doesn't show up in the ZF Electronic Catalog, i'll call them up on Monday & see what I can find. Jag lists them for crazy money, they are used on the racks from the S-Type, XF, X150 XK, X350 XJ, X351 XJ and the F-Type too, but annoyingly it's not the same part as the X-Type which is cheap as chips...worst case I will have to spend £100 on a complete rack from a wreck & rob the solenoid out of it.

Upper wishbones never arrived so i'm stuck waiting for them, i'm so mad at this fraudulent ebay seller...but that's another story...

Got the front bar back on, so here's where it's at...



Remaining jobs for now;

Upper wishbones, shocks and sway bar links back in
Scuttle back together, with the cabin filter
Wiper arms back on
Then off for a wheel alignment

After that, see if I can find a variable power steer solenoid somewhere, then go for a blueslip (roadworthy) and then up for sale, assuming it passes the blueslip...

 

Great job on saving this Jag!

 

Awesome project, glad to be following!

 

Don't forget the Lincoln LS used that rack too. Maybe a Ford dealer could get one for you?

Just a thought.
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I looked at the Lincoln LS racks, they seem to be different. I believe that the very first S-Types got the Ford rack (same as the LS), and the ones from VIN L86902 onwards got the ZF rack.

Will check with Ford but I don't think they will have Lincoln stock in Australia, never sold here...

 

Been to ZF today, long story short even though the solenoid shows in their exploded parts diagram, it's got no part number and is listed as "non-serviceable"



Only place you can buy it new is from Jaguar p/n XR830017, exact same part used on the S-Type, X350 & X351 XJ, XF, X150 XK and the F-Type... local pricing on this thing is nuts, AUD $763 incl tax. UK list price is £250+VAT+shipping (comes out around AUD $520 delivered). I saw it online in the US for USD $383.66 (comes out at the same price as from the UK)

I would be happy to pay $200 at most, preferably less for a used part.

I've called around a few wreckers in the area to see if anyone has an old rack I can get cheap but nobody is getting back to me...

Alternatively there is a rack from an 06 XJ for sale on ebay.uk for £60 plus shipping, so i'll get in touch with that seller and see if they'll pull the solenoid off and just send me that for the £60 + postage...

 

Replacement solenoid sourced!





Got it for $170 plus an X-Type gearknob (long story), will put it in tomorrow. Upper wishbones to be picked up from the post office tomorrow too, so maybe this thing will be back on the road by Wednesday...

I really want to sell the car ASAP as I may have just stumbled across a dream car project & need the money to fund it...

 

So news, and it's not good...

Still getting GEARBOX FAULT along with the P0731: 1st gear incorrect ratio, even though it drives 1000% better than before. So it's gotta be a worn out 1st gear drum or something mechanical in the tranny. Can't do much more about that.

Changing the solenoid on the steering rack did not solve the problem, so I either got a dud solenoid, or it's a wiring problem. Will have to get to the General Electric Module and do the pinout tests on the wiring.

Biggest issue at the moment is....

That damn pressure sensor that I unplugged off the brake booster. The code keeps coming back & throwing up DSC SYSTEM FAULT on the dash. It's code C1289: Secondary brake pressure sensor circuit fault. (open circuit, short to ground, short to B+ voltage [5V] or high resistance)

The sensor is a 5V pressure transducer, 3-wire; ground, +5V supply, output of 0-5V, the wiring appears to be ok because the error only comes up after you let your foot off the brake once the engine is started.

I got in to the datalogger function with IDS to look at the signals of this secondary sensor, along with the master. You can see the brake pressure go up/down on both sensors when you push on the brake and release. But the signals settle at different values when there is no force on the brake pedal.

With no force on the pedal the master sensor shows ~26-28 but the secondary sits on 50 with no variation at all. I am wondering if the pressure sensor itself has an issue, and the difference between the two signals is what's causing the fault.

It could also be wiring or the connector itself (after all, the only thing I did was unplug it) so I am reluctant to throw a new sensor at it 'cause that'll be close to $200, and it'll be hard to find a second hand one around here at a reasonable price...

If anyone is parting out an early S-Type on the forum, help a bloke out?

This is the sensor, p/n XR810532

 

You needed the 2003 and up Lincoln LS. The ZF rack was one upgrade done to the S Type that also made it to the LS. Not much else did. But not much good for you since Oz did not get the LS at all. I did not know that.

Funny thing is I am working on what I think is a failed solenoid too? The car (2003 Lincoln LS) suddenly got very difficult to steer. Found that one of the U-joints from the column to the rack was almost locked up completely. Replaced the intermediate shaft and it's better but still much too difficult to turn.

According to Ford if anything fails in the variable assist system the default is back to 100% assist regardless of speed but I have the opposite problem.

Did you change the actuator with the rack in the car? I have been warned that I should remove the rack completely because there is a small screened port that is exposed when the solenoid is removed and any bit of dirt/grime that gets in there will cause problems.

No lights and I have not hooked up my scan tool because the weather has been too cold.

I sure am jealous of you having the full SSD setup!
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If the solenoid (or the wiring) fails then you still have power assistance, but it's at the reduced level i.e. highway speed assistance, so quite heavy. That's how the Jag documents explain it and it's how this S-Type feels. Just really heavy steering...

It does not put up an error message or warning lights, just logs the codes.

Yeah that screen is a total PITA. It won't stay in the hole because the PS fluid pours out, you need to drain the fluid or, stick the screen onto the nose of the solenoid. I used some degreaser to clean the screen and the solenoid fitting, then held the screen onto the nose of the solenoid with a small dab of grease. Messy job...

I have no more enthusiasm for this car at the moment...

 

I cleaned and re-seated the plug on the brake pressure sensor and the faults have gone away. Did a 30km round trip this morning & all ok.

So this thing is up on ebay.au now, after 5 hours had 35 views and got 3 watchers, so maybe it'll move on. Let's see...

 

Did you get the heavy steering fixed? You replaced the actuator but then it still was not steering right.

I may swap my entire rack as it's only about $200 for a rebuilt one.
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No yet but the auction ends in 9 days so i've got a bit of time to check the wiring from the GEM to the Solenoid...

Less that 24hrs in and over 125 views and 9 watchers, i've never had that sort of interest on an ebay auction before...

 

Just some info on C1924, C1925. You would think it's a VAPS solenoid problem but if you get both codes you most likely have a bad FEM. Wiring is a long shot unless you find damage somewhere. The wire from the VAPS solenoid to the FEM can't be over 1'-2' long. The FEM sits right above the VAPS solenoid in the Lincoln.

My 2003 Lincoln LS is doing exactly what you are seeing. Check from the plug under the car on the VAPS solenoid (Mine is BRN/GRN) to ground. I have a dead short. It goes away if I unplug it from the FEM. I am now looking for a used FEM.

I also unplugged the sensor which I was told would cause the steering to go full boost all of the time. Mine did not. I have the same heavy steering with it plugged in or not.
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Cambo;
I got my LS fixed that had C1924 and C1925 codes. No change when the actuator was unplugged and still got the same two codes. Followed the shop manual and finally got to the FEM.

I got a used FEM off EBay with the exact part number to match mine. Took it to Ford and paid $90 to get it programmed and now my steering is fixed.

I almost guarantee your problem is the FEM. I did have an error in my description above because pin 2 (BRN/GRN wire) in the FEM is a ground so it should be a dead short.

If you get it fixed post back with what you find.
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Glad you got it sorted Tbird. Yes replacing the FEM would have been my next step.

But I sold the car a few weeks back...

Anyhow it's a good reference if anyone else has the same problem.