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Overpriced, wrong fix. Cats can be checked several ways. Go elsewhere.
yup that's what he said he doesn't know if the o2 senor is bad or the cat only way to find out is to take it off, don't sound right to me. but I mean this guy said with what he's going to do will take care of tthe misfires and restricted performance. not too many recommend place in sacramento that work on jags that I know unless I decided to take it to the dealer.
yup that's what he said he doesn't know if the o2 senor is bad or the cat only way to find out is to take it off, don't sound right to me. but I mean this guy said with what he's going to do will take care of tthe misfires and restricted performance. not too many recommend place in sacramento that work on jags that I know unless I decided to take it to the dealer.
They are trying to take you for a ride. You can check the catalyst converter yourself.
Just buy yourself a cheap scanner such as an elm 327 and use it to read the oxygen sensors and do these tests.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vyVnhCIMDnw
Download a copy of workshop manual from Jagrepair.com
OP, Elk, you have very esteemed members with a long history on JF, of giving invaluable free knowledge. If I were you I would listen very closely.
Fire "they" or "him" or whoever is giving you probably not free advise. Find a trusted mechanic or else we will be reading another end of the thread that the marque sucks and you will never own another, blah blah.
As mentioned above kinda sounds it might be as simple as a vacuum leak. But wtf do I know, as i have posted several hundred DIYs here many with pictures.
sorry but these readings do not help you diagnosis the fault. They just show that you have one. You need to use live data as per the video that I posted.
Do you have an elm 327 that you can connect to a laptop then I know where you can get a free trial program that will allow you to read the O2 sensors before and after the catalyst.
We need the engine to be at operating temp when you do this.
This will be the start of the diagnostic process.
Ok I had a couple of hours spare so I ran through the tests on my car using an elm327 and eobd-facile program.
1 connect car to elm 327 after a 10 min drive to get it warm
2 start car and program
3 go to advanced features graph
4 set up reading one as 0-15-0 (02 monitor bank 1 sensor 2
5 set up reading two 0-34-0 lambda sensor bank 1 sensor 1
6 set up the other two sensors in the same way. (Different numbers)
run the data and compare the graphs. If every thing is all right then the results should look the same.
If not then use that video I posted to run the test to see if the catalyst has gone AWOL.
You say you've codes, so fix things so the codes no longer flag.
the air filter code was for a dirty air filter when back to the place and I made them give me a new, because they changed 10,000 miles ago and it looked like it had 50,000 miles on it. I went so the owner can explain what they are going to do to the car. they are going to clean the fuel injectors and put a fuel filter because God know when that's been changed . and they will do a flash ecm to the car. about the vacuum leak they showed me a another xj 4.2 making the same noise my is more predominate because of the supercharger he said he sprayed the hoses and no vacuum leak showed.
What happened to the old codes? Why was P0111 andP0196 not previously registered?
One more time (with feeling) you're wasting money on fuel injector cleaning. May as well do a voodoo rain dance. The ECM flash might turn the car into a brick.
What happened to the old codes? Why was P0111 andP0196 not previously registered?
One more time (with feeling) you're wasting money on fuel injector cleaning. May as well do a voodoo rain dance. The ECM flash might turn the car into a brick.
But it's your car and your money.
WillI you slow down please.
You ask for help and then ignore it
When you clear the codes it take time for them to reappear. Clearing the codes does not fix the car.
The codes were saying you have an air leak and a catalyst problem. You will still have them.
I have asked you twice do you have an elm 327 and a laptop but you don't answer, it makes it impossible to help you when we try to help when you go off half cocked.
I am not criticizing you just trying to offer you some advice on how to get help on your car.
WillI you slow down please.
You ask for help and then ignore it
When you clear the codes it take time for them to reappear. Clearing the codes does not fix the car.
The codes were saying you have an air leak and a catalyst problem. You will still have them.
I have asked you twice do you have an elm 327 and a laptop but you don't answer, it makes it impossible to help you when we try to help when you go off half cocked.
I am not criticizing you just trying to offer you some advice on how to get help on your car.
chill it's not that serious. first I need to get rid of the misfires and restricted performance that are damaging the cats . I not really worried about the cats I have an extra one . what code in specifically says I have a vacuum leak?
chill it's not that serious. first I need to get rid of the misfires and restricted performance that are damaging the cats . I not really worried about the cats I have an extra one . what code in specifically says I have a vacuum leak?
sure I code are going to reappear bit if it show other codes then we have a problem
P0171 or P0174 indicate lean condition & possible vacuum leak
Originally Posted by Elkulichi916
. what code in specifically says I have a vacuum leak?
+1 on the comments about the techs suggestions/recommendations not making at lot of sense or only solving a POSSIBLE part of your trouble.
You need to get a scan to see if there are codes pending to get a better idea of what the problem is and as cheap as a decent scanner is ($30+/- will do the job) it's great insurance against being sold a bill of goods by a shop that just throws YOUR MONEY at a problem and hopes they get lucky.
Ducman posted a link to a video that goes into how to diagnose a bad catalyst and the specific code that is a clue that you have a cat not working as it should (P0420/P0430) in a post to this very thread, so again your tech/dealer should be scanning before he makes guesses with your wallet.
Vacuum leaks and the associated codes are fairly common problems and have been dealt with on this forum at some length so there really is no need for anyone on here to allow themselves to be taken to the cleaners by a tech/shop that is flying blind. Just because they're willing fly blind doesn't mean you have to join them.
While I was never the tech I am a reasonable capable DIY'er and I was a Chrysler dealer for years and knew what my shop guys were doing for close to 30 years. The days of saying "of yeah, I had a car last month that did this (or that) and we fixed it with a new plutewheel pin and a fresh framistan", won't fly anymore. Cars are too complex with too many variables to not start at the beginning and follow the trouble shooting tree from end to end.
Last edited by RDMinor; May 11, 2017 at 02:24 PM.
Reason: spelling
I have switch new coils on and the misfire still occur. just changed the spark plugs with jag oem, and the check light engine hasnt gone away nor the restricted performance on the dash. Can the cats really cause misfires? Or i might just be missing something.
JAGUAR S TYPE R 2006
It's unlikely that ALL of your coils individually went south so go to the source that controls the coils.
P300 is the system wide random misfire code while P301-P308 are for the individual cylinders. The list of possible cause for the P0300 code is pretty long but starts off with the following:
"ECM to ignition module primary circuit faults" followed in order by "Ignition module to ignition coil primary circuit fault(s) with both of the above being followed by whatever individual cylinder misfire was detected. In your case evidently they all were misfiring which would cause the cat sensors to also throw a code. A code that I'd bet would read rich not lean since there wads no ignition to burn the gas
