Can't seem to figure out misfires and codes
[QUOTE=RDMinor;1681144]+1 on the comments about the techs suggestions/recommendations not making at lot of sense or only solving a POSSIBLE part of your trouble.
You need to get a scan to see if there are codes pending to get a better idea of what the problem is and as cheap as a decent scanner is ($30+/- will do the job) it's great insurance against being sold a bill of goods by a shop that just throws YOUR MONEY.
your evap warning shows you have an air leak.
If you go to Amazon you can by an elm327 for less than 20 dollars.
If you have a laptop it does not matter if it is an Apple or a Windows you can download a trail version of bond-facile obd2 program.
you can then use the short-term fuel trims and long-term fuel trims with a can brake cleaner to find the air leak. This the most accurate and easiest method that I know off.
please just invest a little money in this tool and we can help.
The code reader that you are showing in your picture does not appear to allow you to do live graphs which are what you need.
once you have these tools report back and I will tell you how to use it.
please note I only use the program that I have asked you to download. It is a free trial version that will not remove codes but it will allow you to check your problems easily and more importantly cheaply.
I am also in a different continent and time zone so I will not be able to answer straight away but I will
You need to get a scan to see if there are codes pending to get a better idea of what the problem is and as cheap as a decent scanner is ($30+/- will do the job) it's great insurance against being sold a bill of goods by a shop that just throws YOUR MONEY.
your evap warning shows you have an air leak.
If you go to Amazon you can by an elm327 for less than 20 dollars.
If you have a laptop it does not matter if it is an Apple or a Windows you can download a trail version of bond-facile obd2 program.
you can then use the short-term fuel trims and long-term fuel trims with a can brake cleaner to find the air leak. This the most accurate and easiest method that I know off.
please just invest a little money in this tool and we can help.
The code reader that you are showing in your picture does not appear to allow you to do live graphs which are what you need.
once you have these tools report back and I will tell you how to use it.
please note I only use the program that I have asked you to download. It is a free trial version that will not remove codes but it will allow you to check your problems easily and more importantly cheaply.
I am also in a different continent and time zone so I will not be able to answer straight away but I will
+1 on the comments about the techs suggestions/recommendations not making at lot of sense or only solving a POSSIBLE part of your trouble.
You need to get a scan to see if there are codes pending to get a better idea of what the problem is and as cheap as a decent scanner is ($30+/- will do the job) it's great insurance against being sold a bill of goods by a shop that just throws YOUR MONEY at a problem and hopes they get lucky.
Ducman posted a link to a video that goes into how to diagnose a bad catalyst and the specific code that is a clue that you have a cat not working as it should (P0420/P0430) in a post to this very thread, so again your tech/dealer should be scanning before he makes guesses with your wallet.
Vacuum leaks and the associated codes are fairly common problems and have been death with on this forum at some length so there really is no need for anyone on here to allow themselves to be taken to the cleaners by a tech/shop that is flying blind. Just because they're willing fly blind doesn't mean you have to join them.
While I was never the tech I am a reasonable capable DIY'er and I was a Chrysler dealer for years and knew what my shop guys were doing for close to 30 years. The days of saying "of yeah, I had a car last month that did this (or that) and we fixed it with a new plutewheel pin and a fresh framistan", won't fly anymore. Cars are too complex with too many variables to not start at the beginning and follow the trouble shooting tree from end to end.
You need to get a scan to see if there are codes pending to get a better idea of what the problem is and as cheap as a decent scanner is ($30+/- will do the job) it's great insurance against being sold a bill of goods by a shop that just throws YOUR MONEY at a problem and hopes they get lucky.
Ducman posted a link to a video that goes into how to diagnose a bad catalyst and the specific code that is a clue that you have a cat not working as it should (P0420/P0430) in a post to this very thread, so again your tech/dealer should be scanning before he makes guesses with your wallet.
Vacuum leaks and the associated codes are fairly common problems and have been death with on this forum at some length so there really is no need for anyone on here to allow themselves to be taken to the cleaners by a tech/shop that is flying blind. Just because they're willing fly blind doesn't mean you have to join them.
While I was never the tech I am a reasonable capable DIY'er and I was a Chrysler dealer for years and knew what my shop guys were doing for close to 30 years. The days of saying "of yeah, I had a car last month that did this (or that) and we fixed it with a new plutewheel pin and a fresh framistan", won't fly anymore. Cars are too complex with too many variables to not start at the beginning and follow the trouble shooting tree from end to end.
Vacuum leaks can and do cause misfired because you are not getting the correct air gas mixture so it does not burn correctly. The ecu can compensate for a certain amount but once the long term fuel trims have reached max. There is nothing it can do anymore.
your code reader does not seem to allow you to look at the o2 sensor before the catalyst as well as the one behind it.
please go to Amazon and buy an Elm 327. Then go to here http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/software-eobd-facile-elm327.php and download a trail version of the program. It does not matter if you have Apple or Windows laptop it will run.
we can then use this program to check your catalyst (it is the only one that I know off that will allow us to read both o2 sensors live)
we can then use it with long-term and short-term fuel trims and a tin of brake cleaner to find where you have an air leak
your code reader does not seem to allow you to look at the o2 sensor before the catalyst as well as the one behind it.
please go to Amazon and buy an Elm 327. Then go to here http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/software-eobd-facile-elm327.php and download a trail version of the program. It does not matter if you have Apple or Windows laptop it will run.
we can then use this program to check your catalyst (it is the only one that I know off that will allow us to read both o2 sensors live)
we can then use it with long-term and short-term fuel trims and a tin of brake cleaner to find where you have an air leak
Vacuum leaks can and do cause misfired because you are not getting the correct air gas mixture so it does not burn correctly. The ecu can compensate for a certain amount but once the long term fuel trims have reached max. There is nothing it can do anymore.
your code reader does not seem to allow you to look at the o2 sensor before the catalyst as well as the one behind it.
please go to Amazon and buy an Elm 327. Then go to here http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/software-eobd-facile-elm327.php and download a trail version of the program. It does not matter if you have Apple or Windows laptop it will run.
we can then use this program to check your catalyst (it is the only one that I know off that will allow us to read both o2 sensors live)
we can then use it with long-term and short-term fuel trims and a tin of brake cleaner to find where you have an air leak
your code reader does not seem to allow you to look at the o2 sensor before the catalyst as well as the one behind it.
please go to Amazon and buy an Elm 327. Then go to here http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/software-eobd-facile-elm327.php and download a trail version of the program. It does not matter if you have Apple or Windows laptop it will run.
we can then use this program to check your catalyst (it is the only one that I know off that will allow us to read both o2 sensors live)
we can then use it with long-term and short-term fuel trims and a tin of brake cleaner to find where you have an air leak
I was writing this when you posted
go here and get a copy of this program it will allow you to get the most out of it.http://www.outilsobdfacile.com/software-eobd-facile-elm327.php
This what I found for o2 sensor and fuel trim
ok now we are getting some where. If this was a tick over, or the results just after giving gas then it looks like you still have air leak but do the test correctly.
If you set it up on graphs to read the long term fuel trim on both banks on tick over
It should be level. When you give gas if it drops and then goes up when you stop then you have an air leak still
If this the case.
sent up graphs on the short-term fuel trims. When you spray the brake fluid and find the point where there is the air leak it will drop once more.
This will find even the smallest air leak.
If you set it up on graphs to read the long term fuel trim on both banks on tick over
It should be level. When you give gas if it drops and then goes up when you stop then you have an air leak still
If this the case.
sent up graphs on the short-term fuel trims. When you spray the brake fluid and find the point where there is the air leak it will drop once more.
This will find even the smallest air leak.
Last edited by Ducmon; May 12, 2017 at 06:41 AM.
Are you using a phone to do these tests because I just tried it and you can not see enough details on the graphs. I always use a laptop.
When I tried with a totally cold engine I got short term 0%
long term +3.5%
This was at tick over.
This is correct because the engine has to be rich a little bit until warm
This test should be done with a warm engine.
Just do one test at a time on one bank, then the other, so that we don't get lost with all the information.
When I tried with a totally cold engine I got short term 0%
long term +3.5%
This was at tick over.
This is correct because the engine has to be rich a little bit until warm
This test should be done with a warm engine.
Just do one test at a time on one bank, then the other, so that we don't get lost with all the information.
Last edited by Ducmon; May 12, 2017 at 06:37 AM.
Are you using a phone to do these tests because I just tried it and you can not see enough details on the graphs. I always use a laptop.
When I tried with a totally cold engine I got short term 0%
long term +3.5%
This was at tick over.
This is correct because the engine has to be rich a little bit until warm
This test should be done with a warm engine.
Just do one test at a time on one bank, then the other, so that we don't get lost with all the information.
When I tried with a totally cold engine I got short term 0%
long term +3.5%
This was at tick over.
This is correct because the engine has to be rich a little bit until warm
This test should be done with a warm engine.
Just do one test at a time on one bank, then the other, so that we don't get lost with all the information.
set the device to short-term fuel trim and spray brake cleaner in the near of the pipe work when the read drops you have found the point.
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