Hey guys sorry I know my last post got kind of side tracked so I kinda have up on it with everybody else.
I've been going through the topics and there is some great information sometimes.
I'm at the point of thinking of there's a certain process to be taken when these cars have sat for a long time.
I ran the car a couple times after first starting with couple year old gasoline. I didn't know what bad gas looked like but it still smelled like gas.
When I took the spark plugs out I sprayed some Stabil into the motor for preventative maintenance before starting the vehicle. The engine bay smoked for the first few starts but eventually went away.
Battery was fully charged along with doing the reconditioning setting, whatever that is but sounded good.
If a cars been sitting too long is a hard reset required?
I'm so sorry I planned on adding more info but forgot.
It sat for 2 years.
Stabil sprayed in the cylinders, Techron girl system cleaner added after first start. Eventually I drained most of it out and added 5 gallons of fuel at a time and barely got a quarter tank each time. A couple weeks ago I drove it to the gas station and filled the entire tank with Shell v power.
And believe it or not as weird as it sounds when I put the battery on the charger it still has volts left in it after sitting for about two years throughout the seasons.
engine runs great accept for the part that I can't go over 70mph
2005 STR

 

A few questions

1, How long is "too long".
2. Was Stabil, Seafoam, or some other additive placed in the gasoline prior to the inactivity?
3. How much gas remains in the tank?

If the battery was totally flat, the car has most likely done its own "hard reset" Reading between the lines, I assume the engine is running, but not well? A bit more detail would be helpful...

 

I'm sorry about that I just now added more info to the post you just commented on.

 

What happens when you try to go over 70mph?

Also, at lower speeds does it accelerate madly?

Both the above probably require BOTH fuel pumps working hard... maybe one doesn't...

 

In addition to the above. What is the voltage reading at the battery prior to start-up? The PCM looks for 12.6 volts to initialize systems properly.

In truth, the battery needs to be up to snuff for a modern Jag to run properly. Has your battery been load tested? Most auto parts stores will load test your battery free of charge.

 

The first few times it just wouldn't go over. Like there was a limiter at 70mph.
The last time I said screw it and stayed on the peddle and same thing but over doing it have me a check engine light and with my scanner plugged in p1313 misfire rate catalyst damage fault Bank 1 and p0307 cylinder 7 misfire detected.
p1000 is always there also. But the engine went limp for a few seconds then check engine light went away and p1313 and p0307 went away so I'm guessing it was just from me overdoing it.
And at lower speeds it accelerates what feels slower than normal. Fast acceleration doesn't happen but it gets to speed pretty decent.
Also scanner says fuel pressure is at 55psi in idle and while driving. It stays within that range and I've even seen it drop to 53psi while accelerating harder. Last time I was surprised to see 60psi at one point during the drive.
I know at wide open throttle it should be over 70psi but obviously the car doesn't accelerate like that at the moment
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Well I opened the cluster gauge diagnostic these cars have and with ignition on the battery was slightly under 12v. Like 11.8 area. With car running it was back and forth from 13.7 to 13.8 and hit the throttle a bit and got up to 13.9v

 

That may well be a bad coil.

It was severe misfires doing cat damage.

Don't let that happen, they're costly.

I'd check voltage at battery, engine off, after standing overnight.

Poor power can assist with causing misfires but worry about the coil. If it's repeatable, swap the coil to another place & see if fault moves.

 

Internet cluster test mode says 11.7v. hooked up scanner says 11.7v. multimeter says 12.09v.
And those misfire codes popped up when I overdid it by holding the peddle down and went away second later after normal driving.

 

You were writing about speed limitations on the Jag, but I think it might be an rpm restriction. Can you confirm that? Is the speed limitation a consequence of a 3000rpm restriction?
That would mean you are in restricted mode, which the Jag does on purpose to warn you that there is somewhere something wrong and there can be many causes for that. One of many would be that a new knock sensor/sensors are required.

 

that would be terrible since I'd have to take the supercharger out again.
But wouldn't the knock sensors bring up a code?
How do you even test them?
I'll drive and check tomorrow.

 

No, I did not say it is the knock sensor - it is just one of many possibilities you would not think of at first.
It should bring up a code, but then again, different readers show different failures - or not.
I was just mentioning that, because my x308 was in restricted mode when I bought it - the seller did not now why. My reader/scanner told me it's the knock sensor, and it was.
I was merely asking, if your actual problem is the 3000rpm limitation...

 

It's fine I'm merely contemplating the possibility. And I'm sure the scanner i have would show a knock sensor code if that was the case but then again reading around the forum and people had bad knock sensor after coolant from the valley hose spewed all over that area.
As for the 3k rpm issue I might be used to cars shifting at those points. When I shifted manually I was surely getting above 3k at times but didn't pay attention to it in D. I'll check tomorrow.
my scanner in OEM Enhanced mode gives me p1313 and p0307 codes

 

I can only tell you about those codes, what I find myself, when I enter "Jaguar P1313" and the other code into google.

This one gives a few ideas for P1313:
https://www.autocodes.com/p1313.html

The other codes seems to be cylinder 7 misfire.

All above seem to be plenty of reason for the Jag to cocoon itself in restricted mode.
You don't even have to drive somewhere to check, if you have a 3000rpm restriction - you can check while in standstill, if you can get above 3000rpm.

 

I understand. And those came and went after a few seconds after the car got back to normal.
The weird ones that never showed up after the initial scanning are transmission codes p0706 and p1798 which is weird

 

Googeling, P0706 seems to say that something is wrong or loose in the J-Gate, and P1798 something about transmission.
So you have a 2005 STR. I think you have a ZF 6hp26 6-gear auto transmission.
I do not know your mileage nor if anyone ever did a ATF change on that car.
Also: There is that "bridge seal" and those 4 tubes, which want to be replaced:

Here you got plenty to read: That's what I wrote about the ATF change on my S-Type, and with my entry from 1 Dec. 2022 it starts with a bridge seal and the 4 tubes.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-264102/page4/

 

Possibly one or both bolts loose/missing - under car, side of trans - for shift cable.

 

I'm sorry 93k and service records doesn't indicate that transmission was done.
Also that's a good read. Not sure how but I might attempt that service in my driveway. These cars are so difficult to drive up on ramps 😅

 

With you being in the US, I take it that 93k means miles. And that is 150k km's.
Your ATF change is long overdue.
As I wrote: Very important is the correct ATF, i.e. ZF Lifeguard 6 and about 2 others.
And full flush.
No ramps.
I use hydraulic car-jacks and car stands. The car needs to be straight and level.

 

I need to add that when the fuel tank is low that the fuel gauge doesn't seem to work properly.
5 gallons showed under a quarter tank on the gauge and fluctuated from a quarter tank and below.
First fill up a few weeks ago was 12.9 gallons and gauge went straight up to full.