I'd suggest sticking to Jaguar's official code definitions here:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf

Other sources aren't always accurate, especially with Jaguar-specific codes.


IIRC, you can't go above 3000 RPM when in P or N. It's tough on an engine to take it to high RPM without any load on the engine, so automatic protection is built in.

I'd suggest concentrating on the P0307 code. Most likely it's a bad coil. For cheap troubleshooting, swap the coil to another cylinder and see if the fault follows. If so, you've found at least part of the problem.

 

Yes, Karl, but although I did not have the official list at hand, as you can see, google gave me in bath cases the correct interpretation of the failure codes anyway.
I am pretty sure that my Jags go above 3000rpm in P. I will check soon. I don't suggest that you do that just for fun, but if you for some reason don't want to or can't drive on the road, this should be an option to see if the engine is in restricted mode.

 

'Nuff said....

 

All of you are amazing. I charged the battery on the car to 12.7v but for some reason the negative clamp is too big for the terminal so after tightening as much as I could before being careful not to strip the screw the ecm on dash is reading 12.2v

 

just went on a nice drive and the car can go well above 3000. Actually until I had to slow down I was above 4000 rpm.
issues still persisted though.
If it's the battery I'm gonna crack up 😂
​​​​​

 

The battery sat conncted at least 2 years without any sort of charging? It's probably a glorified paperweight by now, even if you're able to get it to take a charge.

Not even going to ask...


Is that premium, i.e. high octane? If lower octane fuel was used, performance will drop off but not necessarily set any fault codes. The knock sensor gives feedback to the computer, which dials back the ignition advance to prevent knocking. The computer continuously adjusts timing to provide maximum advance just below the threshold of knocking.

Edit: Keep in mind you likely have more that one active fault. There may not be one magic fix that will resolve everything. Maybe you've got a battery leasing the farm with an option to buy, plus a suspect #7 coil. Add in a potentially clogged fuel filter. Don't forget the fuel pumps are infamous for failing after periods of inactivity. With two pumps, the failure of one may not be obvious at first.

 

It sat but still had a couple of volts when I tested it. It's still charging over 12v but today noticed the negative cable clamp is loose no matter how much I tighten it so I'm guessing the vehicle isn't getting that 12.7v I finished charging the battery at today because the in car diagnostic showed 12.2v.
Fuel cleaner not girl cleaner. Typo.
And yes it's premium fuel.
And drove it today but like I said those misfire codes popped up when trying to break through and continue giving it throttle. Happened again today but the #7 misfire codes wasn't there. This time was p0300 and went away a few seconds later after the car got back to semi normal. As stated before I think those are fluke codes when the car goes to limp mode for a few seconds. For example those codes are not there anymore until I drive it too hard with it's current issue. I have my scanner on it and the factory cluster diagnostic thing going but I do not understand any of the values, yet.

 

Two volts is dead, dead, dead. Colder than Nancy Pelosi's heart. The slight difference from 0.00 volts is totally immaterial. In fact, I've never seen a battery get down to 0.00.

On a 2003+ car, you should see about 14.5V after engine start, slowly tapering around 13.5 after running for a few minutes. This could be a charging system problem, or it could be that ancient relic of a battery drawing more current than the charging system can supply. Think of it as trying to inflate a balloon with a hole in it, or filling a bathtub with the drain open.

Definitely fix that. The easiest route may be to simply replace the whole cable. Make sure the mounting surface on the body is clean where the cable attaches. This is a known problem area, because moisture from the wheel well can wick along the bolt threads.

Watch out for "paralysis by analysis". Sometimes you get too much information and it's tricky to know where to focus your efforts. Work through the basics, clean up the problems as you find them, and see what happens.

 

My wife's former Range R went icon crazy one morning -- saying everything imaginable was bad. Including the air suspension. Dealer gave us a rough list to fix. Which was more than the car war worth. So, I replaced the battery -- and magically, ALL faults went away. For good. Yes, your battery is deader than Donald Trump's brain... well you said you got two volts... anyway replace it. Don't bother trying to bring it back from the dead.

 

2v from doing nothing for two years before charging.
After charge it went to normal 14v area.
Today after topping up with a charger battery was at
12.7v.
Today the vehicle through the onboard jag diagnostics read 12.2v with engine off and 14.3v or something with car running.

 

All well and good and perhaps your battery is a miracle in the making; however, a static voltage reading is one thing and a proper "load test" is what will determine the battery's actual condition. Most auto parts outlets will do this gratis...

 

Maybe 🤷
Anyways just did a battery test with my scanner which I assume was a load test. It had me start the car 3 times and said battery was normal 🤷

 

A loose battery terminal needs to be fixed. The easiest way is to strip a wire you get from somewhere and then use the stripped wire to wedge it into the gap between battery terminal and clamp (that is, if you do not want to buy a new battery terminal - or even better, as suggested by everyone: A new battery - that new battery might have larger terminals, too).

And yes: A battery under load is a different story than a battery measured in idle condition.

So it looks like your Jag is on the way of recovery. But the advise to do a ATF change with the correct ATF, new transmission filter and new bridge seam and new 4 tubes was independent of you current problems. That needs to be done.

 

I dunno... I have no idea what diagnostic tester you own, or how it works in terms of load testing. I will tell you this (and I am not trying to give you a hard way to go...) Jaguar sub-systems/modules will throw spurious codes at 12.1 volts or less at initialization. 12.6 volts is considered the minimum voltage on an S-type at startup. YMMV and I DO hope you are not on the hook for a new battery. Miracles do happen.

 

I understand and thank you for the help.
I'll be going to the parts store tomorrow and getting shims to put over the terminal.
If all goes well should I do a hard reset on the vehicle or should I just drive and pay attention to changes?

 

Load test = multiple amps without engine running e.g. headlamps on full for 2 mins and measure battery with them still on.

Don't keep causing P0300 etc as you're damaging the cats! Buy a decent coil or swap two over.

A good battery from e.g. tayna.co.uk could save you hundreds. CHarge it off-car when you get it. Buy a hefty one, it's a big engine and the car has lots of electrics.

BTW there is no point buying V power as the car won't use the extra potential. 95 is all it needs or wants.

 

Do we need to take away your scanner? Don't know what model you have, but that sounds like a gee-whiz feature of little practical use. A true load test applies a known load to the battery for x amount of time (usually about 15 seconds) and reads the voltage at the end. Starting the engine loads the battery for a few seconds at most, and the amp draw of the starter is an unknown. All but the worst batteries will probably pass.

Even more, the fixed load / time test is only part of the equation to test a battery. That's known as a resistive test and is not the end all for determining overall battery health. If you take the battery to be tested, ask for a capacitive test. If the kid stares at you and doesn't understand the question, go elsewhere. A capacitive test is a lot more advanced than a basic resistive test. I have both kinds of testers, each has their pros and cons, but the capacitive test is a lot more reliable.

Is a new battery going to fix everything on your car? Probably not, but I certainly wouldn't trust a battery that sat discharged for 2 years. From Troubleshooting 101, correct the known issues before digging deeper elsewhere. If you insist the battery wasn't dead because you measured 2 volts, I'm going to show up at your house and move into your guest room until you repent. I'll send you a list of my dietary requirements...

More thoughts: Have you changed the fuel filter? Can't remember if I've seen this mentioned.

Have you checked fuel pressure? I don't believe your car has a manual test port, but if so equipped, connect a mechanical test gauge. Make sure the value is within specs. Your scanner should have live data. What fuel pressure are you seeing before start, at idle, and at speed when the engine acts up?

Have you swapped the coil from the suspect #7 position?

 

No I'm really not that worried about it because I was the one bringing it on by overdoing the throttle which sent it into limp mode for a few seconds then went away. Code and limp.
the scanner is from harbor freight Zurich ZR13.
So this morning I go to the parts store and get new shims since the terminal was loose on the negative post.
Go figure the terminal wouldn't fit over the shim 😂
And I noticed a crack on the terminal anyways so not sure where to replace entire cable or just terminal.
What gauge are these wires? I'm seeing mostly 2 gauge for sale

 

It should not go into limp & should not flag codes.

There's a serious underlying fault - most likely the coil.

 

Find and correct the misfire(s) as others have suggested or P0430 is going to appear requiring a new catalyst for that cylinder bank.

Under no circumstances should be vehicle be operated under conditions that cause the MIL to flash as catalyst damage is occurring.