ok please forgive yet another CATS system fault post, but after reading through the threads, I still have questions. Probalby just not connecting the dots. I've had the fault message for some time and my suspension is locked up tight. You could jump up and down on the trunk or the hood and the car isn't gonna bounce even a bit. Is this what I should be seeing? Is this what "hard mode" does? An indy shop has the car but he can't get the codes so he took it over to the dealer to get the codes. Dealer still has it, but first attempt they told my indy they got no codes but were gonna look again. The fault message showed up after having a control arm and tie rod repalced by what turned out to be a less than dependable indy (he told me the message was catalytic converter which made sense to me at the time because i did need to repalce mine). Anyway, if we're not getting codes out of it, is it possilbe that all we need to do is have the dealer clear the fault and the suspension will "un-lock"?

 

I had a similar issue which was traced back to a failed wire ( plug) that is on the top of the shock. Repaired the plug wire, disconnected the CATS computer in the trunk then reconnected, message center alert was cleared and the system seems normal. The Jag disgnostic should tell you which,if any, of the shocks is faulty or if the CATS controller is the issue. There is a thread of others who have just decided to disconnect the system and do without it..not my recommendation though. Good luck

 

you dont just nplug the module, you replaced all 4 shocks with standard shocks then disconnect the module. you can replace just about all 4 shocks (STD) for the cost of 2 adaptive

 

kgrosse,

Looks like you got some help on your issue- but in the future having your model year and engine in your signature would help others assist you with troubleshooting.

 

DOH! rookie mistake. sorry about that. guess I'm still a rookie. other posters...please take note.

 

Brutal.....if I understand correctly, I can have my indy replace all 4 shocks with standard, simply unplug the module in the trunk and the fault message in the drivers display will shut off? Then that's that? I'm off and running with standard suspension like every other car I've owned? Seems to me these electronic shocks are just another luxury feature I could care less about. It's my wife's grocery getter, we don't need it.

 

Yes thats correct

 

thanks, Brutal. not the first time your advice has come in handy.

 

Welcome to the forum,

Did you replace them all with standard shocks?
If so then as Brutal stated above you can disconnect the unit.

 

You have the answer in your first post. The guy screwed up your car when he replaced the control arm. All those dummies mess up the suspension sensor. Get under the car on the side he worked on and look for the sensor to be unhooked or connected wrong.

Sorry I don't have a picture of the sensor but it clips to
the lower control arm and I will bet that is your problem. This is just the control arm. Notice the cut out towards the end where I have the arrow. Check both front lower arms. One side will have something clipped into the spot I marked.
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Brutal in order to disconnect the cats system dash light do you need to disconnect the battery before unplugging the module in the trunk? ..I've done this In the past and the car acted crazy with warning dash lights coming on example abs as well my emergency park brake not working. Is that normal and will it reset itself right away?

 

Usually those are signs of a battery on its way out.

 

I recently replaced both front upper control arms, outer tie rod end links and the rear lower control arm bushings and toe bar links on my 03 STR. Now when I drive it the suspension is very stiff and I hear right rear tire squeal as well as feeling the rear end swaying. It almost feels like driving a car with an air bag suspension that is not working. I'm aware that I have the CATS system, but I'm not getting any faults. Is there some type of sensor that I may have unhooked when I replaced any of those parts. I took good care to get the sensors in the top of the shocks in and out, but I did not notice any other sensor attachments at the wheel areas during the r&r. Please advise.

 

Did you look at the control arm picture where I noted the ride height sensor is attached?


Is yours still attached? Is it still plugged in?
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Hi ckcollins2,

The default mode of the CATS system is "Firm." In order for the dampers to be switched to "Soft" or "Comfort" mode, the Adaptive Damping Control Module (ADM) sends a Pulse Width Modulated signal to either the front two dampers, the rear two dampers, or all four dampers. The PWM signal causes a solenoid valve in the top of each damper to open and change the damping rate.

The system relies on signals from three accelerometers. Behind the front bumper on the LH side is a vertical accelerometer and a lateral accelerometer. In the trunk on the RH side is another vertical accelerometer.

The ADM also relies on communications with the Instrument Cluster (vehicle speed, system state), the Dynamic Stability Control Module, and the Rear Electronic Module.

You can see the schematic of the system in the 2003 Electrical Guide, Figure 05.4 (page 71 of the pdf file), which you can download here:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...al%20Guide.pdf

Given the work you performed, the most likely problem is with the connections to the damper CATS solenoids, so you might check those carefully. If the connectors are similar to those in our X350, the pins are very thin and could be easily bent. The tire squeal and rear end swaying may or may not be related to a CATS problem and you should double-check your work to be certain the suspension components are correctly installed and all fasteners are secure (no offense intended - I have to correct my own mistakes from time to time).

If you don't see any problems with the solenoid connectors or suspension components, it would be worth having your modules scanned for any stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Many of the suspension-related codes are "C" (Chassis) codes and cannot be read by most generic OBDII/CAN scanners - it takes a system capable of reading the Jaguar proprietary codes such as the dealer-level WDS or SDD or a high-end third-party system like AutoEnginuity with the Jaguar extension.

The S-Type Workshop Manual contains a lot of helpful diagnostic information and you can download it for free here:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...M-Workshop.pdf

Cheers,

Don

 

The S-Type has ride height sensors? I thought only the XJs had them for the air suspension. I recently removed all mine after converting mine to coils. I wonder if the S-Type uses the same exact sensor then?

 

Thanks for the input, but the issue was the new bushings I installed in the lower control arms. I didn't realize the bushings were for non R models only. I don't understand how that's possible though because if I were to replace the whole arms the part numbers are the same for all the models, so how could the bushings then not be universal? Any insight into this would be great, but I have ordered new control arms to the tune of $400 each.

 

Possibly those are the arms which are NOT the same but something wrongly shows them as the same.

 

I verified with the Jaguar dealer and the parts are the same, so it's really strange.