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chaffed wiring to DCCV

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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 11:30 AM
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Default chaffed wiring to DCCV

Guys, as I write this I am sitting at the dealer (yeah I know) no one has been able to isolate my issue with hot and cold air from the AC. Dealer has been all through it to confirm what I already knew. DCCV is good, RCCM is good, brand new Evap Temp Sensor... They now believe it is a chaffed wiring harness and are trying to locate the effected area...

Does anyone know where I can point them to save labor time trying to find the damaged wire(s)???

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 11:37 AM
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They should be checking what's going on with the plug to the DCCV. Is something open or shorted? Do you have the full 12VDC at the correct terminals? At the correct time when the climate control button is pushed?

Too vague when they say wires chaffed. The wire bundles are behind the front bumper and inside the front wheel well liners. Might not have a good ground too?
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 11:39 AM
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I'd be tempted to run new wire, cut both ends off the existing one and join to the new one. Forget the old one.
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 05:42 PM
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Default Help!!!

Well... after sitting at the dealer all day today they have determined it was not a chaffed wire... They replaced the DCCV test drove the car and its still going in and out of HOT / COLD... The Evaporator Temp Sensor has been replaced, the RCCM has been replaced, the DCCV has been replaced and the relay also has been replaced...

They had 3 mechanics on it this afternoon and needless to say my car is still at the dealer tonight... They were nice enough to give me a loaner (2013 XF) at their cost, I say that was the least they could do, after we sat there from 9:00 - 5:00pm...

They are testing everything out with a voltometer and there is one guy under the hood and two in the car...

Anyone ever have an issue like this? Any ideas, Brutal you out there have you seen this before??

HELP!!
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 06:08 PM
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Too bad that RCCM didn't solve the problem, but at least its off the list of potential parts to change! Only long shots I can think of at this point are a heater core flush (worth a shot) or maybe blend doors (again, long shot). Any chance you have tried the three temp sensors in the foot wells? If these are acting up I believe they can cause problems. I replaced all mine a while ago. There cheep and easy to replace. Again, worth a shot!
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 06:41 PM
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Don't forget to clean the air temp sensor above your ignition key!

Simple and cheap but might not fix it.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 04:09 AM
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Seem to be making a hash of it. They can read all the sensors with the dealer tool, don't need to be doing it the slow way.
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 04:14 AM
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I just drive around no heater now. Mine works for about 20 min a month. I have an electric plug in heater that cost $40 and always works. Once I hear of your solution Ill look at mine again. My Nissan Navara has started doing the same with the CC. Works for 20 mins then cold only for the next few hours. At least its still in warranty. Paul
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JagV8
Seem to be making a hash of it. They can read all the sensors with the dealer tool, don't need to be doing it the slow way.
I tend to agree with you JagV8... I never go to the ******* / Dealer for obvious reasons but when I have an odd issue that nether I or my Indy Mechanic can solve I am forced to biting the bullet. They are supposed to be factory trained and have all of the tools / diagnostics at their disposal but yet, we are out there for 8 hours with voltometers???

They did say that the new DCCV was working but its the same issue as before so I am not keen to pay for a replacement DCCV when it wasnt the issue... DO I make them put the old one back in and not pay the $716 they wanted for that repair?

They also have tested my RCCM and say it is doing what it should... OF course it is I had it professionally repaired last time to add the diode in to keep it from burning out the trace on the PCB the next time the DCCV fails...

I had the Evaporator Temp Sensor changed and that had no impact. I changed out the relay thinking maybe it was bad but that also had no impact. They have traced all of the wiring and now say that is good. ll that is really left are the remaining cabin temp sensors and the actuator flaps in the heater box...

Interestingly enough, they did say that even after changing out the DCCV that the AC compressor was not kicking on initally, but it was working as of last night. What would cause the compressor not to kick in... hmmmmm... Some sort of temp sensor or possibly an induction fan not working properly???

I sure hope they dont plan to bill me by the hour for their voltometer testing...

Anyway, anyone have any other thoughts on this, I did clean the temp sensor in the dash behind the ignition switch it was dusty but not really clogged that also didnt help...

It was 93 and 100% humidity the other day and my car is blowing 110 degree air from the side, rear and floor vents and 70 degree air from the center vents...

ARRGGHHH!!!!
 
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 08:50 AM
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Ouch! Well, maybe DIY using the helpful details on jaguarclimatewhatsit.com - sorry can't quite recall its name
 
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 06:21 PM
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- JaguarClimateControl.com
 
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cbharley10

I sure hope they don't plan to bill me by the hour for their voltometer testing...



ARRGGHHH!!!!
Electrical diagnosis is the most expensive of diagnostic repairs. Did you ask before you let them "go on a hunting expedition"?
 
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 02:22 PM
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May not be of much help, but I had the same problem, turned out to be a broken wire behind the front bumper, took my Indy two hours to identify it, remove the bumper and fix it. He says it's a common failing in the "S"
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 05:54 PM
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Default **update**

Okay coolest Dealer experience EVER!!!

Got a call today from the serivce manager at my local Jaguar Dealer... He started off by telling me that mine was one of the cleanest and nicest 03 STRs he has seen come through the shop! He then proceeded to appologize for the 4 days my car was in the shop and the mis-diagnosis of the DCCV valve. He said they should have been able to detect the issue and since the problem wasnt with the DCCV that the $720 replacement (Parts and Labor) was on the house!

They finally were able to determine that the issue was as I had thought a chaffed and broken wire (the power lead) to the DCCV. It took roughly 4 hours of labor to troubleshoot and repair the broken lead. My car has been vaccumed, washed and is now ready for pick up at a cost of just under $500 bucks!

I have to say I am very impressed that they owned up to the mis-diagnosis and ate the costs of the repair. I now have a new DCCV, Evaporator Temp Sensor, RCCM and a freshly repaired and insulated wiring harness!

Looks like these guys deserve some serious credit for their honesty and integrity!! If anyone needs service and is in the Cincinnati Area, please call and talk to Tony at Cincinnati Jaguar / Land Rover!!!

Happy Motoring!
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 03:48 AM
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Great to hear it's all sorted, perhaps they read this post, or am I being cynical?
 

Last edited by Sponge; Jul 25, 2013 at 07:16 PM.
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 04:44 AM
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I very much doubt they read the forum. Good outcome, either way.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2013 | 11:48 AM
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Hi Sponge
Do you know where they found the broken wire? I'm going to be looking for it and any pointers would be good.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2013 | 01:21 PM
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Hi manycars
Not sure of the exact location, but my Indy said that have to take the front bumper off to get at it, so I assume that it's where the loom from the DCCV goes through the front and along behind the bumper. Not much help, but I recon it will be obvious once the bumper is off.
Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2013 | 02:34 PM
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Thanks.
The bumper has to come off for a proper look there, not too worried about that, but wondered if your indy mentioned if the chafing usually happens in certain area, so I can concentrate my search.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 12:39 PM
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Sorry manycars, I have no other information on the exact location other than under the bumper.
Good luck and hope you sort it.
 
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