I have a 2004 S type 3.0 and need to replace the DCCV, will the DCCV from the same year Lincoln LS work?

 

Yes, you will find the part numbers in the How To section.

Don't forget you intro in the new members area.

 

It's a bit more general. There are two styles of DCCV. 3 hose and 5 hose. Just check which one you have and yes get the Lincoln part.
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The Motocraft # for the LS 3 port v/v is YG378 $87 0n Amazon Motorcraft YG378 Heater Valve : Amazon.com : Automotive

 

Thanks for the info. 3 hose and yes the part fits perfectly fromt he Lincoln.

 

Hi

My S type has no heater function, did changing the DCCV fix that. Was it hard to change because that is one of the items i'll be testing this weekend. Thanks Paul

 

I wouldn't say "hard" but certainly "tedious" after the 3rd time in as many months!

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...l-valve-86979/

Your vocabulary needn't be as large nor as colorful as it otherwise need be, if you make sure you have an operable flexible constant-tension clamp tool before you begin.

 

Thanks for that, I will chase tool as suggested. Sounds like it will be coming out to bench test functions etc. My heater not working at all , hoses in engine bay to firewall are normal very hot so water is getting there. I plan to touch heater core behind glovebox (RHD) to see if it is hot before pulling heater valve out. I can hear various flaps moving so look forward to finding something obvious.. optimistic heh.
Another perfect day in Aus 26 C blue skies and the ac on...
Paul

 

Thanks -- I have been putting off replacement of my DCCV but need to get to it soon (heat on full if climate control on). I did a quick Google search for the tool. Could you perhaps provide a little more information on the specific types of tools that will make the job easier, including the clamp tool, as there are several types available? (Does "flexible" refer to the tool, or what it is used on?)

 

These ones are from Sears

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cable...p-00947390000P

 

Looks a magic tool. Can someone tell me if no power to DCCV means it is in closed or open position re water flow. Then I can work out if mine is working ok or stuck. Still hot pipes and never any heat inside so it sounds different to Tee Eye. Paul

 

They can stick in any position on each side so you can't tell. Default if not sticking is fully open.

 

Norri nailed it on the tool I was talking about. Got mine from Amazon, I believe.


Looks very similar even to the red handles. But my, how inflation bites, I only paid $35 and within the last year! Don't recall needing anything else bizarre, just metric sockets and an assortment of extension lengths. Extendable magnet and flexible ******-tool are nice if you are prone to drop bolts - mine never seem to make it to the floor!


Amazon.com: pick up tool: Automotive

 

Same tool in Australia ie exactly the same quoted to me at the tool shop at AUD$105.. and our dollar is wortrh more!!. Will check ebay or buy Sears.

 

Today I bought the clamp tool from ebay Aust for $33. On the way home from work I stopped to get the Thai takeaway, bumped over a few speed humps and put the heater up to Hi. To see if anything happened. After a minute the heater worked for the first time since buying the car last month. It worked for about an hour perfectly during which time I stopped and parked for ten minutes twice. The last time I started the car the heater did not work. So what to do. I suspect the computer module but will check all connections and mechanical activators first. Certainly was novel having a working heater going perfectly in conjunction with the AC on auto. Any other ideas on what to check because this fault has to be something minor.. Paul

 

Doubt the module as how would it do what you describe? They're known to fail when the DCCV burns out a PCB trace.

Chances are it's the DCCV or a temp sensor. Many threads about how to test each.

 

Thanks, Checking sensors today. Found minor leak from auxiliary water pump today so will pull out. Its on the way to the DCCV anyway. Found date stamps in my car 24 March 1999 on the inner boot lid while looking for the mystery boot light switch? Sounds like second month of production start so does this mean my cars more valuable...? Paul

 

Vehicle Specs PDF in stickies has the actual VINs so compare with the first one.

 

I had replaced my DCCV on my 2000 S-Type 3.0 and documented the procedure on my page. I hope this helps.

Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

I think at this point in time the words "S Type" and "more value" should not be used together. The cars are at the bottom of their price curve now.

A good bunch of us on here only own an S Type because the are a bargain to purchase. Plus you have the early generation which has a lot of problems compared to the 2003 and up S Types.

I do agree with others that the STR is a future classic but it remains to be seen how the regular S Type will fare. I don't think any of the 6 cylinder versions will ever be that as they are just too common.
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