I think most people who own the S-type know about the flaw with the DCCV shorting out. If water from the radiator leaks on it the valve is prone to shorting out .. Can someone explain the exact flaw, and would a bunch of dielectric grease in the connector stop or deter the penetration of radiator fluid ?

 

I think the common failure mode is an internal leak, not external. Pressurized coolant is forced past the internal seals and eventually shorts out the electrical side. Any coolant spraying on the outside (such as from a radiator leak) is just going to take the path of least resistance and run off, not work its way past a seal to get inside.

Dielectric grease at the connector won't hurt anything. I'm very partial to the stuff, personally. However, it will have no effect if the leak is internal.

 

Your replay is not making my situation any easier lol... I just replaced my DCCV and CCM and it worked for about 6 months... now I'm back to the same issue. I DO have a radiator leak and was told that the leak was the cause of the DCCV shorting out.. Now I'm thinking that might not be the case .. Perhaps I would be better served by pulling the CCM back out from under the glove box and looking to see if it burnt the traces again .I just can't believe that the NEW DCCV gave up the ghost in 6 months time .

 

I had a radiator seam leak right next to the dccv. I actually thought it was the dccv leaking it was always wet. I guess my point is external coolant spraying...in my case...on the dccv hurt nothing...the radiator blew up the day before my planned dccv removal project....go figure....the rad replacement not as bad as it looks...and a seam leak can be fixed.....good luck

 

I just noticed something, I can't run the temp up or down from the left side on the control panel ... The right side of the panel will run up and down fine. Strange... Im thinking more and more that maybe the CCM is jacked again . I got a new radiator sitting in the garage, I should just get around to putting the darn thing in I guess.

 

Your circuit in the ccm is blown again and you can take it apart and solder a wire in if you can solder and yes a external leak will get into the coils in the top and short them out again and then take out the ccm circuit